What Axles

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Hello guys. i have found out that my front axles have work away at the cup bit where the dog bone fits in, this is causing me lots of problems. i need to replace the axles but i can't find what I'm after.

I upgraded to 17mm hexs and when i did this i had a differnt axle to the originals. i can't find these anywhere. can anyone help? i will put pictures up if this post doesn't make sense.

Cheers all
 
Hello Chester they look right, why would the cup part of the axle get worn away so quickly?is maybe my dog bone to short? as its the end of the dog bone that seems to slip out of the axle and has worn away the end of the axle.
 
If the pins in the dog bone a worn down it will wear the cups in the axle also a bent dog bone will do the same thing i dont think your dog bone are to short all are the same length so long you dont have extended a arms i would check the bearings in the hub that would eat up an axle
hope this helps
 
Hello guys

So i have replaced my Axles, thanks chester you did give me the right ones :)

however i can see that the same problem is going to happen, when i have the wheels turned as if they turning left, then the dog bone slips out ofd the axle and locks the wheel, this is what caused the last axle to wear away. why would this happen? i have changed the hubs to aluminium hubs with the 17mm hexs and adaptors and it is hear when it seems to have started.

Any thing i can check or any ideas as to what is happening? there is a lot of movement from then diff to the axle down the dog bone.

cheers all
 
If you didnt have a problem with the stock hubs i would check the aluminium hubs out the spacing for the bearing mite not be milled right
try posting a picture of the hubs that would help us see the problem
 
Here are the pics for you, when the car is on steering lock the dogbone comes out of the axle and locks the wheel.

It also seemed to do it when i lifted the car off the floor and gave it full throttle, the wheeels span and then the front left wheel locked again.

10sbx50.jpg


14cfec9.jpg
 
do the pics help? see my problems?
 
The dog bone do look short but it looks like the bog bone is not fitting in the axle looks like the ball on dog bone is to big dose the other side go all the way in the axle?
have the dog bones been upgraded to xl
xl bog bones are larger and wont fit any savage x,25 or 3.5
if thats not it other things to check is the diff cups, broken a arms,also make sure the pin that hold the a arms is not broke,check the dog bone length with the others,make sure the diff cups come out the diff the same length as the other three check all bearings.
your uprights (wheel hubs) look good to me
 
The dog bone fits into the hub fine, there is a lot of movement between the diff cup and the axle cup. all dog bones are same length, have had it all apart and nothing broken, all looks like new,

bearings all fit in hubs well, not worn away. diff cups all same length out of diff aswell. its a bit weird isnt it. as i say it was never a problem before i changed to the aluminium hubs,

I will have another look this week, i will also put the old hubs back on and see if it makes any difference.
 
ok so have had another look today.

Put original hubs on, still does it,

Its definately only the front left hub that is the problem. and it only does it when the steering is full lock turning the car to the right.

Dog bones all same length, diff cup seem to be same length out of diff.

so not sure what else to check, nothing is broken or work away either...

help please :)
 
ahhhhh i think i have sorted it out. i will test tomorrow to find out if i have.

What a daft thing it may have been. in the Diff cup there is a little rubber washer, this was missing. have now replaced it so hopefully this will make it work.

Will let you know, thanks for all your help
 
ahhhhh i think i have sorted it out. i will test tomorrow to find out if i have.

What a daft thing it may have been. in the Diff cup there is a little rubber washer, this was missing. have now replaced it so hopefully this will make it work.

Was about to post that up as some advice. Wouldn't hurt to have the o-ring in both the inner and outer cups to keep the dogbone more centered. The o-ring allows the bone to go deeper in the cup when the shocks are compressed but pushes the bone back out when it's not compressed. Without the o-ring, it allows the axle to work it's way too deep and gives you the issues your having.
 
Yay it works :) now just fine tuning the thing.

What is the factory settings for a savage 3.5? i dont think I'm on factory and I'm not sure how close to it i am.
 
Found my old HPI .21 BB (Big Block) manual - here's what it says...

High Speed needle:
The high speed needle is pre-set from the factory to 3 1/2 turns from fully closed.
After break-in, the needle setting can range from 2 1/2 to 3 turns from fully closed.

Low Speed needle:
The low-speed needle is pre-set from the factory to 3 1/2 turns from fully closed.
After break-in, the needle setting can range from 2 1/2 to 3 turns from fully closed.

Midreange needle:
The midrange needle is pre-set from the factory to 3 1/4 turns from fully closed.
It is recommended that you do not adjust the midrange adjustment screw.
 
awesome thanks.
new question now then. have put everything to these settings.

Now when i go full throttle it puts the brakes on. the adjustment screw is really loose so i do not have much brake on. however when i push the brakes they are tight and stops the truck pretty instantly.

any ideas?
 
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