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Cupooterluvr

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Tuning question, I took vid to help explain the problem

I got a good 2 hours in today, in my fairly well tuned car. Then I hit a tree anchor and the left rear wheel support broke. Oh well. They're only $3.30, so I'm gonna have new ones on the way very soon.

I have a tuning question. I know that the gap between head/engine case is putting off the tuning, but once the mill gets hot it expands and seals it up. Anyways, I got it tuned fairly well, but I don't know if it's good enough. I took a video of the tuning runs to show you.
 
Last edited:
The broke wheel thing is just a statement, I wanted to ask if the tuning is right. The video shows me going slow then hitting it to WOT to show how slow it seems to accelerate. It could just be me though.

If you want, I can post the vid of when I broke it too.
 
Cupooterluvr said:
I know you guys think that the gap between head/engine case is putting off the tuning, but once the mill gets hot it expands and seals it up.
Click to expand...
It sounds like ya have your mind made up that its not, what the problem that people suggested. So I'm not sure why your askign again. You have to relize that 80 of the members that will leave you a reply here have been in this hobby for a long time, and know what they are talking about. So I would take there suggestions and run with them, because most of the time there right on the money.
 
4u2nv said:
It sounds like ya have your mind made up that its not, what the problem that people suggested. So I'm not sure why your askign again. You have to relize that 80 of the members that will leave you a reply here have been in this hobby for a long time, and know what they are talking about. So I would take there suggestions and run with them, because most of the time there right on the money.
Click to expand...

As someone once said, "oops i did it again". Sorry. But it's true, once it gets hot, it doesn't leak any more. In fact, I don't remember it leaking at all today... Anyways, here's the vid:

[ame="http://youtube.com/watch?v=u9AsTB6M4MU"]YouTube - tuning engine[/ame]
 
It's late and I'm tired so I might not be reading this right but I know that your engine should never have a leak. From what you wrote it seems that your missing a head shim or the shim is cracked/broken. When you removed the head, did you remember to put the shim or shims back on?
 
Uh... well, I didn't even notice any shims. I didn't see anything come off of the engine when I took the head off, so if there were shims they're still there. Sorry if I sound snotty but it's 7:00 am and I just woke up. The leak was actually caused by a stripped head screw, though I suppose I might have dropped a shim and not noticed. What do they look like?

I'll look for anything I might have dropped when I get home from school today. I honestly think that the engine has pretty much sealed itself up, there was no leaking exhaust or fuel from the engine yesterday. I'm not totally disregarding what you guys are telling me, though. Once I get the replacement wheel support in, I'll start it back up and tell you guys if it's leaking or not.

I just realized I forgot to siphon the fuel from the gas tank yesterday after it broke. Gotta remember to fix that when I get home! At least I remembered to put the mill at BDC, though.
 
the sound on that vid was slow for me. I would hear you accelrate by after your car died, but sounds like you fixed it. i'm unopperational to. my pullstart broke, and i stripped the motor mount screws. so i know how you feel.
 
Well, that's not good! Hope you can get it fixed! Is it the engine casing itself, the screws, or the actual engine mounts that are stripped? Seeing that you're in Florida, you must be pretty bummed since cold isn't a factor for you. Luckily we're moving to Florida this summer so I'll get to go sand blasting with my buggy! That said, does anyone know of any LHS's in the Tampa area? I don't even think Leavenworth has one, so I can't go there for repairs. I just want to know so that I'll be ready when I need it.


I noticed this last night when I was cleaning my buggy, between the engine case and the cooling head, there's a brass ring going all the way around, is that the shim you were talking about?
 
Cupooterluvr said:
Seeing that you're in Florida, you must be pretty bummed since cold isn't a factor for you.
Click to expand...

Yes i am very bummed.

Cupooterluvr said:
Is it the engine casing itself, the screws, or the actual engine mounts that are stripped?
Click to expand...

I stripped the slot for the allen wrench. So I'm going to have to find a grinder, grind a slot, and take the screw out with a flat head.
 
Cupooterluvr said:
Well, that's not good! Hope you can get it fixed! Is it the engine casing itself, the screws, or the actual engine mounts that are stripped? Seeing that you're in Florida, you must be pretty bummed since cold isn't a factor for you. Luckily we're moving to Florida this summer so I'll get to go sand blasting with my buggy! That said, does anyone know of any LHS's in the Tampa area? I don't even think Leavenworth has one, so I can't go there for repairs. I just want to know so that I'll be ready when I need it.


I noticed this last night when I was cleaning my buggy, between the engine case and the cooling head, there's a brass ring going all the way around, is that the shim you were talking about?
Click to expand...

Yes, This is a head shim.
 
Ok, I was looking at the manufacturer's website for a new wheel strut and i noticed that they also sell head screws, which gave me the idea of maybe getting some of the longer screws to repair the stripped screwhole. The ones I have now are short little stubby screws that only go about 2mm into the screwhole. Will longer screws fix the problem?

Website: http://exceedrc.com/sparepart51c06.html
 
In theory, the longer screws will have a deeper reach. However, it depends on how far down the threads reach into the casing. But, before you take a grinder to your engine head, keep in mind that any metal you take out of the head will affect cooling. Your best bet would be to use some jb weld metal epoxy and a cheap throwaway wrench on the stripped screw. Loosen the other three first; it will allow the stripped one to turn easily.

And when you put the screw back in, use a good quality wrench. You would be amazed how much difference a decent allen driver makes.
 

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