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velineon esc doesn't accept series connection!!!!

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suhbliem

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I just bought a 1/16 e revo used. the guy drove it around using the series connector and i drove it around using the series connector so i know it works.

It didnt come with a radio so i put in my stock 2.4 ghz traxxas tx/rx system and re linked the esc. I charged the batteries and went to have another go and now the esc blinking alternating red and green and from the manual it says its becuase its getting too much voltage!?! I'm only using 2s lipo packs and the stock battery packs and no matter which ones i use it keep blinking alternating. I use the parallel connector and everything is fine.

does anyone have any tips on this to fix it???
 
Maybe try and reset it. Two, 2s lipos in series will kill the esc. It's only compatible with 2s and 3s. Maybe hooking two 2s packs up caused a problem.
 
but the esc is rated for 2s in series, it says right on the box :( if the esc was fried would it still work with a single battery or with parallel connection b/c mine does, just doesn't want to take a series connection
 
I just bought the mini slash and read through the manual before I ran it. The instructions say 3s tops. If your esc is still working, it's not fried. But if it is telling you that your putting too much voltage into it, I'd listen. Maybe see what some others have to say. Another fellow on here ran 4s through one and smoked it a couple of weeks ago...
 
You can only run the 6-cell NiMH in series. The 2s LiPos are a bit too much voltage and can fry your ESC. If you've gotta have the speed a 3s is more than enough.
 
I figured out what was going on. I had the esc set to lipo mode which was not allowing the nimh batteries to be connected in series, changing it to nimh mode fixed that. Oddly enough, while in nimh mode, the 2s batteries were able to be ran in series as well.

For some reason I thought these esc's could take up to 4s, but thank you for the reference of using 3s and below, will save me some big headaches i'm sure.

I'm going to the lhs to pickup some new 3s packs and a new balance charger for dual pack charging today. thanks!

edit: this is my first electric R/C any other tips you have would be greatly appreciated!
 
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be careful when running the 2s lipos in series in Ni/Mh mode. i fried an esc from doing so. Just get a 3 cell lipo and run it in lipo mode. it's faster than running the 2s lipos in series in Ni/Mh. trust me. ask anyone. and F.Y.I. i was the guy that fried my esc that metalheadmatt mentioned...lol lesson learned. 3s is MORE than enough in lipo mode.
 
Get to know your truck before you run it.

Don't run lipos without using lipo mode on the esc. You are asking for trouble. You'll run right through the safe cutoff for your lipos and ruin them. If you don't have the manual, download it from the Traxxas site.
 
All the mini Trx's do on high voltage is flog themselves anyways. A couple of speed passes with 14.4 is fun, but having so much power that you can't control it is pointless.
 
So I finally got my Merv set up with 2s zippy lipos (two in parallel), smaller pinion, all aluminum links and the Pro-line dirt-hawg/titus combo and did some running yesterday. After 3 minutes I broke an axle carrier. I don't care how you have these things set up, you need a wide open space to run them.

Buy lots of spare front end parts. I'll buy anything and everything RPM makes and will make for this thing.
 
All of the 4s lipo info is correct. Its pretty much useless power beyond 3/4 of the trigger on 4s. I tested it yesteday. It will require an external low voltage cut-off and an external bec to do it right without changing out the esc. I found 2s in parallel to be the most controlable and fun to drive.

I also found the same issues with needing room to run. If you are driving on the street or over small bumps, set your arms parallel to the ground for more stability if you haven't done so already. I have tan springs all of the way around and am considering trying the black in the rear. I cannot comment yet on larger hills or jumps yet.

The carriers are a weak point. Everyone is telling me to switch to aluminum and change out the pillow balls for a higher quality set including the source I got from.
 
I think I'll try the aluminum carriers. I use the "black" springs now and the truck still bottoms out on any jump. I also have the front and rear TBR skids so maybe that has to do with more of the bottoming out effect.

So my next attempt will be with aluminum carriers and RPM arms, at least up front.

to be continued...
 
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just swap out the stock shock oil. i put 60 weight in my shocks.i haven't driven it yet but it's considerably stiffer than stock but not too stiff IMHO
 
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