Upgrades - T-Maxx 3.3

[srbecker]

Love the paint on the body....thats pimpin man

Thanks man! I have yet to drive it with that body. I dont want to ruin it haha. Plus, my other body is perfectly fine, so I might just use that until it breaks and use this one for a "dust" cover, then when I need to use it, I grab another body and do another project haha

 

[srbecker]

So, I got my RPM True-Track conversion complete, my RPM A-Arms installed, and RPM Wear plates installed. Take a peak...

RPM Wear Plates

Front A-Arms

Front View

True-Track Kit

Rear View

Next on the upgrades list:

50wt shock oil
Another body painting project to keep me occupied
Chassis Braces (Aluminum or Plastic???)
Water-proof, high torque servos (most likely when mine die)
New rims (with wider offset) and tires (when needed)

I will most likely go in that order as well. Any further suggestions/opinions are highly recommended!!!

 

[theant]

Very nice! I would go with the aluminum chassis braces to stiffen up the chassis even further. You've got the bulks and the towers, so why not complete the process of chassis strengthening. If it were me, i would go with the waterproof servos for steering and throttle/brake (Traxxas 2075) next. In my opinion getting the thicker wt oil for the shocks would be a good idea, and would be third in line on my list.....it would help alot for landings when you are taking big jumps.

All in all great job! Looks like you have spent your money in the right places.

 

[srbecker]

As my current servos work pretty well and I have no complaints because they are the same as the 2075 just not waterproof, those will probably drop to third on my list and I will probably get the chassis braces next and then the shock oil. Thanks for the help and input with everything ant. Looks like now I either have to crash it or buy another nitro so I have something else to keep me busy haha. I can't wait to just get out and have some fun with this guy.

 

[theant]

Yeah, exactly...if your servos work fine right now, and they should because they are brand new, then there is no reason why you should change them out unless of course you want to run it in wet conditions. I personally really like the tire/wheel set that come stock with the Tmaxx 3.3, but you should have a look at the Proline sets of tires and wheels. Trenchers, Badlands, Mashers.....

http://prolineracing.com/monster-truck-all-terrain

 

[srbecker]

Well, after running the T-Maxx for the first time since the RPM true track and a-arm conversion in addition to the new slipper clutch since my last one fell apart from being too loose. I love everything! The true track really makes a noticable difference as far as rear steer and the RPM arms seemed to have helped a little bit with the handling (Plus I lowered the truck a little bit). In addition, my slipper clutch was too loose from the factory, so running it at the proper setting for the first time was amazing! So much pick up, some good wheelies and great throttle response. I love this truck!

 

[oo7chris]

I went with intergy bulk heads and rpm arms. I also have intergy skids but I bend those all the time then just bend them back.

 

[hamz9561]

Integy is a 4-letter word. They have no warranty once you open the package and even less customer service. The main problem with their aluminum alloy is what you have already stated: you bend the skid plates back into shape. Their aluminum is all too soft for what it is being required to do. Do yourself a favor and get another brand of parts or cut your parts out of a beer can and you'll have a stronger part that is much cheaper...

 

[Zdragon71]

+1 on what Hamz said. A beer can has more structural integrity than integy aluminum.

---------- Post added at 1:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:30 PM ----------

I have had great luck running GPM skids and towers and Hot racing bulkheads. Very affordable too.

---------- Post added at 1:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:31 PM ----------

Also great job on paint. That is Pretty pimp as greywolf stated.

 

[andydrew39219]

I dont doubt that it would be a good investment, but why spend the money on it if it hasn't gone yet....all I am saying is is that a good initial upgrade or a good upgrade part to use for a repair???

It's going to be a lot more of a pain when the con-rod breaks because then you have to thoroughly disassemble and clean the engine because of all the metal bits everywhere. I just blew the con-rod in my .15 pro 2 days ago and I'm not even going to try to waste my time on fixing it.

I understand being timid about cracking into a nitro engine, but it isn't that bad. You just have to know important stuff. Like when you are installing the backplate or cooling head you gotta make sure you tighten the screws down in an X pattern, going a little bit with each screw until it tightens down. And do not over tighten screws, get them nice and snug but don't push it.

Take a look at this
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM0BTN58pY4&list=PL088FBD7768A3FD49&index=20"]Complete new engine setup Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]