Upgrades - T-Maxx 3.3

[srbecker]

So long story short, I am new to both Nitro and this forum (as of last week) and I currently own the T-Maxx 3.3 (4907) and would like to spend a little money on some mods. I know, I know, dont fix what aint broken, but I have to upgrade everything, its in my blood. So here are the mods I am looking at currently. I would appreciate any advice you guys can give me such as the order you would purchase them or even any mods you see more important than these ones. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give me!

1. Traxxas Big bore shocks (or similar) - What do I need in addition to this kit? I have seen people mention getting differnent springs, differnet weight and so on, isnt there another kit out there that I dont have to purchase everything separate?

2. Aluminum Bull Heads (front and rear) - worth it? Some say they bend, some say they dont fit right. Opinions?

3. Aluminum Skid plates - again, worth it?

I am going to eventually replace my A-arms with RPM when those break, but I dont see the need to do those yet. Any other ideas?

 

[srusinek]

I would consider replacing the conrod because that engine has a bad rap for those rods snapping. There's an aftermarket conrod by Davis diesel and its like 30 bucks or something like that. Another option would be to buy a bolt on engine that would not have the above rap but that all depends on how deep your pockets are. You definetly want to get a temp gun as well if you don't already have one.

 

[theant]

Aluminum Bulks first - FLM, Golden Horizon are some good brands to go with.

Then the Skids - RPM 3 piece is a good and CHEAP option to use

Finally, I have read nothing but good reviews on the Traxxas Big Bores...so I picked up set myself and they are great.

can't go wring with RPM arms either, great investment for pretty good price. I would stay away from aluminum arms.

I would upgrade in that order too, by the way.

^^^You would replace the conrod before it is broken?...that would be a waste IMHO! and wouldn't replace the engine if it is new or even in good operating condition. Just my 2 cents

 

[srbecker]

I would consider replacing the conrod because that engine has a bad rap for those rods snapping. There's an aftermarket conrod by Davis diesel and its like 30 bucks or something like that. Another option would be to buy a bolt on engine that would not have the above rap but that all depends on how deep your pockets are. You definetly want to get a temp gun as well if you don't already have one.

I am not confident in my engine wrenching abilities yet, I took great caution making sure I broke the engine in by the book, so hopefully I wont have a problem. I think this is one of those cases where I will wait until it actually breaks before I replace it. Then I know I can't really mess it up by taking it apart lol. Thank you for the insight though!

---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------

Aluminum Bulks first - FLM, Golden Horizon are some good brands to go with.

Then the Skids - RPM 3 piece is a good and CHEAP option to use

Finally, I have read nothing but good reviews on the Traxxas Big Bores...so I picked up set myself and they are great.

can't go wring with RPM arms either, great investment for pretty good price. I would stay away from aluminum arms.

I would upgrade in that order too, by the way.

^^^You would replace the conrod before it is broken?...that would be a waste IMHO!

Thank you! I was looking for an order of importance like this. Did you do anything with your big bores or keep them the way they came in the package and add the oil supplied with them? Would you get the bulk heads first or the shocks?

---------- Post added at 11:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

I dont plan on replacing the engine or anything in it until it breaks only because the guy at my LHS said he has heard nothing but good about the 3.3, and that he owns one himself and has yet to have a problem with it after 2 years. I have no problem getting into the engine when it breaks, but thats one thing I plan on leaving alone until its broken.

 

[theant]

I would get bulks first...they are a weak point. Maybe even some aluminum chassis braces if you have the money for them as well.

I used the shock oil that came with the BB's but added my old white Traxxas progressive rate springs. I dont mind the oil that came with them, but you could benifit from some thicker oil for sure, its up to you. I guess what I am saying is that the springs on them should definately be changed ouut.

 

[randy0050]

don't skimp on the bulk heads as the ant said. rpm arms and a strong steering servo.. if you are fairly new to r/c , you will hit a mailbox, tree , or something solid.. the rpm arms are forgiving to a point and a good steering servo might help you at the last sec. learn how the truck moves by playing with it around objects..

 

[cwal1774]

Aluminum Bulks first - FLM, Golden Horizon are some good brands to go with.

Then the Skids - RPM 3 piece is a good and CHEAP option to use

Finally, I have read nothing but good reviews on the Traxxas Big Bores...so I picked up set myself and they are great.

can't go wring with RPM arms either, great investment for pretty good price. I would stay away from aluminum arms.

I would upgrade in that order too, by the way.

^^^You would replace the conrod before it is broken?...that would be a waste IMHO! and wouldn't replace the engine if it is new or even in good operating condition. Just my 2 cents

Yes I would definatley replace the conrod before it's broken. It's not a waste it's a wise investment. I had 2 of them split on me before I learned that lesson. That rod by Davis is bulletproof and will last forever. It's made from a solid chunk of billet aluminum and has brass bushings at both ends. The stock TRX rod only has the bushing at the crankshaft end which means thay have a tendancy to split at the wrist pin and punch holes in the piston. Like I said this happpened to me twice. I got a Davis rod and never had a problem again. It's been trough at least 3 stets of pistons and sleeves and is still being used to this day. Not by me I sold the truck it was in but the person who bought it is still using it.

 

[srbecker]

don't skimp on the bulk heads as the ant said. rpm arms and a strong steering servo.. if you are fairly new to r/c , you will hit a mailbox, tree , or something solid.. the rpm arms are forgiving to a point and a good steering servo might help you at the last sec. learn how the truck moves by playing with it around objects..

I appreciate the advice. Do I really need a new steering servo though? I thought the 4907 model came with the better "digital" steering servo? What recomendations do you have if I should start looking at them?

 

[theant]

Yes I would definatley replace the conrod before it's broken. It's not a waste it's a wise investment. I had 2 of them split on me before I learned that lesson. That rod by Davis is bulletproof and will last forever. It's made from a solid chunk of billet aluminum and has brass bushings at both ends. The stock TRX rod only has the bushing at the crankshaft end which means thay have a tendancy to split at the wrist pin and punch holes in the piston. Like I said this happpened to me twice. I got a Davis rod and never had a problem again. It's been trough at least 3 stets of pistons and sleeves and is still being used to this day. Not by me I sold the truck it was in but the person who bought it is still using it.

I dont doubt that it would be a good investment, but why spend the money on it if it hasn't gone yet....all I am saying is is that a good initial upgrade or a good upgrade part to use for a repair???

I appreciate the advice. Do I really need a new steering servo though? I thought the 4907 model came with the better "digital" steering servo? What recomendations do you have if I should start looking at them?

In my opinion, a new servo would be a "nice to have", but not necessary also. What servo number do you have in there right now? I would just take it slow and not get heavy into the throttle right away until you have picked up the steering and handling of the truck. Some good servos would be the Traxxas 2075 (I can't remember what you have already got in there, but this one is waterproof), Hi-Tec 645MG, Savox

 

[srbecker]

I dont doubt that it would be a good investment, but why spend the money on it if it hasn't gone yet....all I am saying is is that a good initial upgrade or a good upgrade part to use for a repair???



In my opinion, a new servo would be a "nice to have", but not necessary also. What servo number do you have in there right now? I would just take it slow and not get heavy into the throttle right away until you have picked up the steering and handling of the truck. Some good servos would be the Traxxas 2075 (I can't remember what you have already got in there, but this one is waterproof), Hi-Tec 645MG, Savox

I dont think I have the 2075 as I am pretty sure mine isnt waterproof. I am pretty comfortable with the truck already and I actually think that the steering is pretty good (maybe because I have never used a better servo?). I guess I am going to look into the aluminum bulkheads, Big bore shocks with progressive springs, and a davis connecting rod for the tool box for when mine does go. Someone mentioned the Integy springs were good but not their other parts, is this true? (meaning is it safe to get the springs by integy?)

 

[theant]

I dont think I have the 2075 as I am pretty sure mine isnt waterproof. I am pretty comfortable with the truck already and I actually think that the steering is pretty good (maybe because I have never used a better servo?). I guess I am going to look into the aluminum bulkheads, Big bore shocks with progressive springs, and a davis connecting rod for the tool box for when mine does go. Someone mentioned the Integy springs were good but not their other parts, is this true? (meaning is it safe to get the springs by integy?)

I have heard that the springs by Integy are one of the only good things that they make. You can check the 4 digit number on the top of the servo and reference it online to see how much torque it has. I am still using the 2055 black servo for my steering that only has 80oz of torque and it works just fine for what I need.

 

[srbecker]

I have heard that the springs by Integy are one of the only good things that they make. You can check the 4 digit number on the top of the servo and reference it online to see how much torque it has. I am still using the 2055 black servo for my steering that only has 80oz of torque and it works just fine for what I need.

Well, I have a little piece of mind. I have the 2070 steering servo which is identical to the 2075 except it is not waterproof. It has 125oz/in torque as well. That poses the question then. I saw a waterproof servo case for the 2075, couldnt I just purchase that and take my internals out and put them in the waterproof box/case? Too much work for what its worth? Better off just getting the 2075?

 

[theant]

If you dont have everything waterproof, then it is not worth it. You would be better off buying 2 new 2075 servos and the waterproof rx case from a stampede ( I think they work) or an Emaxx case. 125oz of torque is more than enough, and I would just run what you have until they need replacement.

 

[Greywolf74]

First thing I would do is aluminum Bulks and chassis braces either at the same time or do the braces second.

next thing Id do is RPM arms at least on the front. I personally probably wouldnt do the back unless you find yourself breaking them a few times. Unless you can afford it at which point RPM arms all the way around is never a bad thing. Dont ever use aluminum arms IMO.

Then Id replace the stock steering servo with a good one. The stock 2070 servo is 125 oz/in and has plastic gears. Id look for something in the 200-300 oz/in range and something that has all metal gears. Some good names to look at for servos are Savox, Hitec, Futaba, and Airtronics. Savox and Hitec make some good servos for decent prices. Futaba and airtronics IMO make even better servos but are generally more expensive than Savox or Hitec. Futaba quality just depends though. They make a wide range of servos from somewhat inexpensive and some what crappy to really great and expensive. Mostly though they make good servos just start looking up servos and compairing the specs and the prices till you see one that meets the specs and the price range you want.

As for the 3.3 I wouldnt personally worry about the TRX 3.3. Id run it till it dies or blows up then Id replace it with an OS, LRP, Sirio or some other higher quality motor.

If you want a waterproofed servo, instead of buying a traxxas waterproofed servo, I would suggest buy a good high torque servo as discussed above and then you can water proof it yourself....Use the Black Plasti Dip spray It works really well in conjunction with the techniques show in this video. Dont use the clear spray. You can use the liquid tape like he ends up doing in this video and it will work just fine but its not as clean looking like he talks about in the video.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vu4muQWNwxM"]RC How-to: Waterproof a servo - YouTube[/ame]

These are all of course my personal opinions and may vary from other users.

 

[theant]

All good advice as well!! RPM is about $50 for the arms all the way around so I just went with that.

 

[srbecker]

Well I really appreciate all your advice and opinions, keep it coming! I'm learning at the least. I guess as of right now, I plan on purchasing maybe the Davis conrod just to have when failure hits, if it hits, but I think I am going to upgrade as I break stuff at this point. Once I get that first upgrade I know I am going to buy all the rest while I'm at it, and I just dont have that much money haha. Atleast at this point I know what to look for. I almost want to do the shocks now, but I know I most likely dont need them yet as 1. I can't drive too much right now with the temps below 40, and 2. I dont plan on hitting anything too crazy (large jumps) anytime soon. I am going to just try to enjoy it and replace what breaks.

 

[Greywolf74]

You need to replace the bulkheads ASAP IMO. That is an extreme weak point on the tmaxx. one good high speed collision and its very likely to snap in half. If that snaps it half its likely to break other things as well.

If you're going to buy the Davis conrod then you need to install it. If you wait for the the old one to break you will most likely need a conrod, piston and sleeve to repair the engine as the broken conrod are likely to damage at least those. I havent heard of to many people breaking the conrod in the 3.3 myself but that doesn't mean it can't happen. That is to say thats not something most people to my knowledge commonly complain about like the bulkheads or various other things that others have mentioned. At any rate I'm getting sidetracked. The point I was trying to make was if you buy it then go ahead and replace it because a conrod failure usually means replacing at least the 3 things above which costs almost as much as the engine. So if you get it, use it. Or dont get it and if/when the motor blows up invest in a better after market engine. just my .02

 

[theant]

You need to replace the bulkheads ASAP IMO. That is an extreme weak point on the tmaxx. one good high speed collision and its very likely to snap in half. If that snaps it half its likely to break other things as well.

If you're going to buy the Davis conrod then you need to install it. If you wait for the the old one to break you will most likely need a conrod, piston and sleeve to repair the engine and the broken conrod are likely to damage at least those. I havent heard of to many people breaking the conrod in the 3.3 myself but that doesn't mean it can't happen. That is to say thats not something most people to my knowledge commonly complain about like the bulkheads or various other things that others have mentioned. At any rate I'm getting sidetracked. The point I was trying to make was if you buy it then go ahead and replace it because a conrod failure usually means replacing at least the 3 things above which costs almost as much as the engine. So if you get it, use it. Or dont get it and if/when the motor blows up invest in a better after market engine. just my .02

This is my advice as well, get yourself new aluminum bulks and leave out the rest then.

 

[srbecker]

This is my advice as well, get yourself new aluminum bulks and leave out the rest then.

10-4 Thanks guys! Ant, I think you were answering my stuff on the traxxas thread too haha. I figured I would post in both threads to see what people say, and it all leads to the bulkheads. Maybe Ill do the bulks and cross supports then. Thats a little over 100 bucks from the research I have done, so that will be my budget for now haha. Anything else I NEED to do while I am in there or just the bulks and cross supports good for now?

 

[theant]

Yeah, I go to both forums just to get more info if possible. I would say that you wont NEED anything else right away, but shock towers are a good investment cause you will land on your lid often as well.

http://www.fastlanemachine.net/
http://www.ghhobby.com/products.php?cat=5