• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

upgrades for my LST2

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
MGT8.0owner

MGT8.0owner

Hardcore RCTalk User
Messages
1,479
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
thunder bay ontario canada
RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
hey guys i got my LST2 this weekend from a guy on another forum and this thing is a beast......i'm planing on doing some more upgrades to it and woundering what you guys have done...here is what i plan on doing...tell me how it sounds..

LST XXL chassis,
LST XXL trans,
LST XXL extended cv's,
LST XXL body,
Losi tuned pipe,
LRP .28 or .30,
aluminum threaded shocks,
and rpm arms all the way around.

how does this sound for upgrades??...i'm really new to the losi lol...

also just a couple of questions...

1. Where does the batteries go?
2. i need to get a motor mount...how do they work on this??...because were the motor has to sit the holes on the motor are set back from the holes in the chassis...

sorry if these are dumb questions just new to this truck and not really sure what i'm doing lol
 
Personally, I wouldn't get the XL longer chassis. I busted 4 or 5 sets of LST2 chassis rails between the front and center skids due to big air, but not so big that you'd think that would happen. The XL is longer in the same spot I kept busting, so you have more plastic stretched further. Can't imagine it won't break more easily. It's not fun changing those out either.

The LRP28 with the Losi HT pipe is a great combo for that rig. Running HPI savage teflon shoes on the clutch works really well for bashing. That's the exact setup I have.

When you order your RPM arms, do not install them until you get lunsford turnbuckles for the upper arms. They won't last a day and it's not fun tearing up your new RPM arms to get a snapped off turnbuckle out of them. I've read that Xray turnbuckles work really well too, but can't personally vouch for them. I can vouch for the lusnfords as that's what I've been running for a couple years without an issue. They can be difficult to find though. Since yours is starting as an LST2, you will need to get the RPM shims for RPM arms as well. The RPM arms are made for the narrower LST1/AS arms. They never made a set for the LST2 specifically.

The engine mounts are pretty cheap, however, tapping out the bottom mount to 4mm and using 4mm cap heads helps them stay put much better than the small headed standard thread screws they use. I haven't noticed anything weird other than that due to the way they bolt up.

Replace the stock cast engine bay brace with a dynamite one before putting your engine in. Saves you replacing the stock one later when you break it after a few decent jumps. They crack easily. Haven't had an issue in the 1+ year with it since I got the dynamite one.
 
Last edited:
ok the truck already has that dynamite engine bay brace in it so thats covered...i'm getting the losi 454 which is the same as the lrp .28....i know the XXL chassis is longer and i'm not worried about it breaking from big hits as i mostly race and dont go ovr many big jumps...i'm guessing the tunsford turn bukles are for the camber ajustment on the rpm arms??...is that really going to be needed for waht i do with the truck?..(i plan to keep it landing on all 4's lol)
 
MGT8.0owner said:
i'm guessing the tunsford turn bukles are for the camber ajustment on the rpm arms??...is that really going to be needed for waht i do with the truck?..(i plan to keep it landing on all 4's lol)
Click to expand...

Yes. I busted one of mine within my first tank doing mild bashing/jumping and landing on all 4's. I didn't have more than 2-3 feet of air under the truck and snap... down for the count. I replaced it with a spare 1/8 buggy one I had, then ran another tank that evening, snapped a second RPM one and bent the 1/8 scale one I installed. The other two were noticeably bent. Really sucked considering what I was doing with it.
 
MGT8.0owner said:
ok i found the thing under the rear of the chassis...it has 4 screws on it...do you have to take those out to get the battery out?...also what type of battery goes in there?

it is this type of tray underneith: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/5854/n/Team-Losi-Battery-Mount-Set-LST-LST2.
Click to expand...

This kind will work:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...thon-1600MAh-1-8-Off-Road-Stick-Receiver-Pack

I have a cheapy 1400mah one I bought off ebay for $20 2 years ago on mine. I put it in a balloon, ziptied the balloon, then wrapped it in electrical tape a couple times to help protect the balloon from punctures. Running a balloon on it is good for wet running.
 
ok thanks....i just noticed on the on/off switch thats in the truck there is 3 plugs coming out of it...i know the one is for the reciver...but why is there 2 on the other end?..both plugs are different...is it for running two different types of battery packs?..like one plug for the AA pack and one for a rechargable flat pack?..
 
Should just be one plug on the battery end and one going to the receiver. Don't know why there is a third unless it is coming from the AA holder under the fuel tank. Did you look to see if it's under there? I am betting one of your plugs is male and one female???
 
My guess is that the 3rd is your charging jack.

Like one of these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH462&P=ML

My aftershock didn't come with that. I bought a switch and a mount for a charging receptacle, then cut a hole in the side of my receiver box and mounted it up. With the switch in "OFF", the charge jack is then connected to the battery so you can charge it without unplugging anything.

This is mine:
2008-0105-ASChargeRecepticalExternal.jpg


Looks hack, but it's very convenient. My LHS didn't have a jack holder like the one I linked too.
 
Last edited:
The revo and jato made me lazy... lol! They both have it in stock form. In my mind, it helps to keep the receiver battery connector from getting weak, but really, it's probably just because I'm lazy. ;)

I did a similar thing to my savage, but I just leave a pigtail hanging out of the receiver box. Now on that thing it's makes it much easier than tearing open the stupid receiver box to plug it in.
 
ok it looks like that one you posted olds...here is a pic of the two plugs coming out of the one end:
Picture054.webp

both of those plugs come out of one end of the on/off switch...the other end has the plug that goes into the reciver on it..

thats for you help guys...
 
The one on the left is a female input going to the switch. The one on the right is a male and is most likely coming from the AA battery pack under the tank. See where that purple tubing is coming out of the black rubber grommet? That is where the batter lead originally came out from under the chassis and to the switch.
 

RC Builds

Back
Top