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Kr0niK

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  1. Bashing
Well I've been out of the game for a couple years now so I'm not a total noob but I can't seem to find the answers I'm looking for. I have a T-maxx (not sure which version)

1st. I'm looking for a complete cvd upgrade since I'm really getting sick of replacing yolks and axel carriers. Ebay seems to have a decent selection but since I don't know the model I started with (upgraded engine os .18tm) I need to know if the 2.5 and 3.3 kits are interchangable. This also leads me into ....

2nd. I want to replace the suspension arms with rpm ones. Same question if there is a difference between the 2.5 and 3.3's. Also if there is a difference, what if I purchased the 3.3 arms with the 3.3 cvd kit. If there is a length issue I can see this working but what about the middle drives.

3rd. Is a metal spur gear a good idea? I don't see any pictures of them on here so that probably answers my question, I just figured I'd throw that out there to.

Anyway those are my questions. It's good to be doing this again, but as I seem to remember they are a money pit. About 2 hours of driving, an axcel carrier, spur gear, a steering servo and half a gallon of fuel later, I still had fun.
 
You need to figure out exactly what model you have, it'll help ya. 2.5 and 3.3 arms are the same length, but you'll need 4908 model carriers, axles and turn buckles. Leave the spur plastic, it saves internal damage to the tranny. With the mesh set properly and the slipper adjusted right, you'll get long wear outta the spur. Do a search on the site for after market cvd's and the parts you'll need to make everything work. I haven't went this route yet, wish I could help more. The 4908 parts are pretty tough and cheap. 4908 is the new 3.3 T Maxx with forward only. Converting your existing trans to foc(forward only conversion) makes for better acceleration and a stronger tranny. For $10 bucks, it's the best bang for the buck upgrade.
 
I use a steel spur gear on my t=maxx after going through a couple of plastic ones. I haven't had any problems with my tranny and I just FOC'd it. It looked like new inside. The steel spur has the slipper pegs and it is adjusted properly so it must be doing its job.
 
It's best to leave the weak point outside the tranny, but to each their own. Plastic ones don't fail unless there is a mesh problem or the slippers to tight and ya cream something. You'll also add extra stress to driveline components if the slippers cranked down.
 
So to clarify, the 2.5 and 3.3 suspensions are the same? The arms are interchangable?

I'm 90% sure I have the 2.5 since I purchased it 2+ years ago used and they 3.3's are around that old arent they?

Anyway, are there any differences that stand out, besides the engine, between the two that I can confirm which I have?
 
My 2.5 is pretty old and the A-arms are interchangeable, however the 3.3 knuckles/driveshafts are different. A 2.5 shaft(from the diff out to the wheel) uses smaller bearings out at the wheel.
 
Got ya, I can replace the suspension arms no problem but will need the 2.5 (assuming thats what I have) cvd's.

Anyone have any tips to find exactly what model I have?
 
if it has the old style axle carriers then use the cvds for kit 4910 if it has new revo spec axle carriers (larger with blue caps on the pillowballs) then use the cvd kit for the 4908, 4909
 
It's best to leave the weak point outside the tranny, but to each their own. Plastic ones don't fail unless there is a mesh problem or the slippers to tight and ya cream something. You'll also add extra stress to driveline components if the slippers cranked down.

Could not have said it better myself. I recently bought a hopped up tmaxx it had it on there and that was the first thing i took of... Not to mention the bell teeth were chipped up from it.
 
if it has the old style axle carriers then use the cvds for kit 4910 if it has new revo spec axle carriers (larger with blue caps on the pillowballs) then use the cvd kit for the 4908, 4909

What I have has black caps on the pillow balls. The bearings are the same size on each side to, is that different for the revo spec?
 
Yeah, that's the old style. The new hubs have a larger bearing on the inside then on the outside.

So it is for sure the 2.5 style? In which case I would need the 4910 kit?

Sorry for all the questions that I'm pretty sure you guys have answered already I just want to make sure.
 
So it is for sure the 2.5 style? In which case I would need the 4910 kit?

Sorry for all the questions that I'm pretty sure you guys have answered already I just want to make sure.

Hey, no sweat, man. No such thing as too many questions. Never a problem. Ordering the wrong parts is aggravating.
 
Well guess we'll see when I recieve this if I understood all the info and everything said to me. *can't link to ebay for some reason*

Good price I think but may take a couple weeks to get.

search for this on ebay: Traxxas T-Maxx 2.5 CVD Shafts Front/Center/Rear - Axle
Should show exactly what I purchased.
 
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Well, just look at every purchase as a learning experience. You'd probably be better off goin' with 3.3 rpm hubs, a arms, a good set of metal cvds and the matching turnbuckles. Like I said, I haven't went this far yet, so I can't recomend any names(can't think of any, either) for the driveshafts and turnbuckles. Almost forgot to mention aluminum bulkheads. Others will pipe in with suggestions.
 
Well I'm pretty sure they are metal cvd's. If not I'm going to be pissed since the description says all metal alloy but the picture kind of looks like plastic yolks.

Do you recommend alum. bulkheads all around? I have the front ones now.

I do plan on going rpm a-arms all around but so far stock shock towers and turnbuckles are holding up ok. Plus I have many to spare right now.
 
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