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Tuning Help....Newbie Here!!

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shorty said:
did you actually go and watch them vids i gave you a link to ???????????????????
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Yes I did, but I was having out of the oridnary issues during break-in such as the idle temps were really low. I usually follow the manual but sometimes you need to do steps that the manual doesn't show. That is why this website is so useful.
 
Is there a stock setting for the idle screw or will I just have to adjust it accordingly? Yesterday my idle rose a bit to where it started to creep forward and I turned the idle counterclockwise, but it didn't seem to help much.

Also does the throttle trim on the remote need to be adjusted? I remember on my tmaxx it had to be turned all the way down, however on my savage remote its maybe in the middle, give or take a little.
 
Always turn the trim to zero before making a manual adjustment on the idle screw. You only need to raise the trim for cold starts and warm up time.
The LSN and idle work as a team. If you lean the LSN, you usually have to lower the idle. Richen it and it usually needs to be raised.
 
Rolex said:
Always turn the trim to zero before making a manual adjustment on the idle screw. You only need to raise the trim for cold starts and warm up time.
The LSN and idle work as a team. If you lean the LSN, you usually have to lower the idle. Richen it and it usually needs to be raised.
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There are no numbers on the throttle trim...is 0 to the left counterclockwise?
 
Sorry, no. By zero I meant all the way off. Completely counter clockwise.
Some have numbers where zero is center, but I should have said ALL THE WAY off to the left. That way you can't make a mistake where the idle is set.
 
Great...your always a help!! I will try another tank tomorrow and get back to you on my results.
 
Okay I can say I was having a semi-bad day of tuning today. I let it idle for about 5 min to see where the idle temp would be. After leaning it out just a tad bit the temps ranged from 204-229. It did sputter just a bit, like it wanted to creep forward but it didn't. I turned the idle screw counterclockwise a bit because it was idling a little high at first. I then decided to go on to the HSN adjustment. Acceleration was good, however once it got going, it sounded congested and you can tell it wasn't running smoothly. All of a sudden it cut off on me. I took a few tries to start it up again, but it did. I leaned the HSN about 1/2 a turn, but it still sounded the same and it cut off on me again. Also note, I was not going WOT at anytime, just barely 1/2 throttle. Well it took a few tries to start it up again. This time it took a few minutes for me to get it started. I leaned the HSN 1/8 of a turn more, made one pass and it cut off on me again. This time I could not get it started anymore. It is possible the roto start battery played a factor in that. I also wanted to ask you, sometimes when I'm trying to start it with the rotostart, I hear sort of like clanking when its turning, like metal parts are banging on each other. Most of the time when the engine cranks smoothly is when it starts up.

Please help me once again. I reset the HSN to factory settings (4 1/2turns from close). Just when I thought I had tuning down, I didn't. I was getting a little frustrated because this is the same reason why I got rid of my maxx and decided to go with the savage cuz of the ease of tune. But it all comes down to my inability to tune it properly/correctly.
 
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The clattering could very possibly be coming from the roto start itself. It's not uncommon. They're also prone to eat gears. I helped a guy out a couple of weeks ago, and with a roto start the one way bearings kept breaking.
He replaced it with a pull start and suddenly it was a pleasure to get it started. The pull start spins the engine much faster than a roto start.
Before you start tuning the HSN you should hold the car off the ground, once it's up to temp, and start to give it short bursts on the throttle to clear it out. Once it's cleared out, that's when you start to drive it and adjust it for WOT. If it quits quickly, that's when you have to richen it. If it bogs, and you can keep it from stalling by letting off the trigger, it can be leaned.
 
Rolex said:
The clattering could very possibly be coming from the roto start itself. It's not uncommon. They're also prone to eat gears. I helped a guy out a couple of weeks ago, and with a roto start the one way bearings kept breaking.
He replaced it with a pull start and suddenly it was a pleasure to get it started. The pull start spins the engine much faster than a roto start.
Before you start tuning the HSN you should hold the car off the ground, once it's up to temp, and start to give it short bursts on the throttle to clear it out. Once it's cleared out, that's when you start to drive it and adjust it for WOT. If it quits quickly, that's when you have to richen it. If it bogs, and you can keep it from stalling by letting off the trigger, it can be leaned.
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Will I need to adjust the LSN anymore at this point?
 
Probably not, as long as you're holding a good idle temp and getting good take off. Stick with the HSN for now, and keep me posted on how it behaves.
 
Shouldn't the LSN/idle temp be adjusted while the car is on the ground?
 

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