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Tuning Help....Newbie Here!!

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baldie

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Okay...I've only been in the R/C Hobby for about 3 months now and I jumped right into Nitro...=/. My first car was the T-Maxx. Yes, the hard to tune everyone complains about T-maxx. I had a hard time keeping that thing on long enough to drive it through 1 tank. So I sold it and got the Savage instead. Well...I guess you can say I'm still learning how to tune a nitro engine.

I'm following the manual step by step on break-in:
1st tank - put on block and let engine run while letting tires spin freely (successful)
2nd tank - Same thing, except now pull trigger slowly to full throttle and release to help rid of excess oil. Do this for one tank. (I was having a hard time doing this because everytime I would slowly pull the trigger it would cut out. It did this 90% of the time)

This is where I'm stuck. I have not adjusted any of the stock settings. Can someone tell me what to do break-in the 2nd tank successfully??
 
Yes, i had this same problem, dont worry about it, just when u get a chance just blip the throttle every now and then. Then on the 3rd tank take it off the block, lean it out just a tad, about 1/16-1/8 of a turn right to lean it out. You should then be able to blip around on the ground. every tank slowly lean it out. But dont lean it out to fast, by the time ur done with break in(about 6-7 savage tank fulls), then the hsn should be set at around 2 1/2-3 turns out.

Another thing tp think about, is if you have a temp gauge, try to make sure that the motor is at least getting into the low 200's. Because it is at these temps where the motor and the things inside of it start to stretch out.

Hope this helps, if u have any more questions ill check back in. Ps. The stock savage engine is the most easiest engine i have ever had, i never barely touched the settings after break in.
 
up on the top left of the page theres a "Tips" link. Thats what got me thru the tough questions when I first started. Was a real help.. Check it out. I printed mine off and still have it in my feild box..lol

But yeah, I started out to with a Tmaxx, with the .15 pro in it. Was a pain in the ass to keep tuned and ALWAYS ran hot.. I had a few Rc's in between, and about a month ago got a savage 25... Man thats a sinch to tune compaired to the others I've had.. I'm gonna keep this truck for a long time to come. Good luck.
 
mxboy100 said:
Yes, i had this same problem, dont worry about it, just when u get a chance just blip the throttle every now and then. Then on the 3rd tank take it off the block, lean it out just a tad, about 1/16-1/8 of a turn right to lean it out. You should then be able to blip around on the ground. every tank slowly lean it out. But dont lean it out to fast, by the time ur done with break in(about 6-7 savage tank fulls), then the hsn should be set at around 2 1/2-3 turns out.

Another thing tp think about, is if you have a temp gauge, try to make sure that the motor is at least getting into the low 200's. Because it is at these temps where the motor and the things inside of it start to stretch out.

Hope this helps, if u have any more questions ill check back in. Ps. The stock savage engine is the most easiest engine i have ever had, i never barely touched the settings after break in.
Click to expand...

Well I will try the 2nd tank one more time. When it was on the block, and I would pull the trigger slightly it would cut out. Do I need to adjust any needles at this point or just leave it as it is? I was able to get through the 2nd tank but it just kept cutting off. Then on the 3rd tank I put it on the ground and it would die before it would start moving.

PS. do I need to adjust the throttle trim or anything?
 
You may have to keep the glow driver on till ya get leaned out a bit.

Just follow the manual. You may have to keep starting it during the first couple of tanks. Like mxboy said just lean it out a bit after each tank. Main thing is be patient. It is so rich now it isn't going to run right. After you get it broke in, ya hardly ever touch the needles. May have 1/2 a gallon or more of fuel through it by then.
 
Well I went throught the 1st tank fine...only had to start it a few times. I'm on my second tank now and everytime I go to slowly pull the trigger it cuts out. I leaned the HSN a few times to about 1 full turn and it continues to cut off when I slowly pull the trigger. What do I do now?
 
Well, you are still running extremely rich. That's why when you blip it, she'll cut out. Lean the LSN 1/8 turn and try it out. What break-in technique are you using?
 
You might also want to consider changing the glow plug. The stock S-25 should rev even if it is really rich. That motor is simple to tune and it will run ok with a wide range of needle settings.
 
Diver6127 said:
Well, you are still running extremely rich. That's why when you blip it, she'll cut out. Lean the LSN 1/8 turn and try it out. What break-in technique are you using?
Click to expand...

I followin the manual according to what it says. I have not touched the needles since it came out of the box except the HSN which I leaned out about 1 1/2 turns. Is it possible the needles weren't correctly set from the factory?
 
I'm getting either cross eyed, or cross threaded. Didn't I just respond to this in another thread? Keep your posts in your own thread, please, since I don't want to reply twice to the same thing.
Please refer to my other post, and then add your new info here, in this thread.
Thanks
 
Sorry NCnitro.....On my very 1st tank of break-in, I got alot of fuel coming out of the exhaust. It actually soaked the box that it was sitting on and also got splattered a little on the chassis. Was this an issue? Could it also be a possiblity that the needles were not correctly set at the factory which is why I'm off track on tuning?
 
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH, you done did it now! You called Rolex "NCNitro" you're gonna get a pony whipping now!
 
LMAO.....someone's not paying attention today. If NCNitro wasn't a good guy, I'd be insulted.
Baldie, it sounds like it's stinking rich on the LSN.

I need 2 things from you before you adjust anything.
1. After idling for several minutes, what's the temp?
2. When it's at temp, and you pinch off the fuel line, how many seconds does it take before the engine quits?
 
LOL.....SORRY ROLEX!!! I wasn't thinking!!

Well I was constantly checking temps during idle and the temps ranged from 100-110 degrees. As far as the pinch test, I can tell you that tomorrow when I try again.
 
100-110? It's hard to keep it that cool running it under water.
Lean the LSN 1/2 turn and restart it. Let it idle till the temp stabilizes. (doesn't rise any more) If necessary, lean it another 1/16 and let it continue to run till the temp again stabilizes. Keep doing that till it idles at 210 or better.
At any time, if it stalls out, bring the piston to BDC and allow it to cool completely before restarting it.
Let it idle a tank or two more between 220 and 240 and bring it to BDC every time you shut it down or it runs out of fuel.
From time to time you might have to blip the 'snot' out of it, but do not go full throttle. Just short bursts of RPM to clear the excess oil out.
 
As always I will follow your advice and then get back to you....one thing though...what is BDC?
 
Bottom Dead Center. Meaning, make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke so it won't cause premature wear on the piston/sleeve when it cools down.
 
Correct. After rotating the flywheel by hand a few times, you'll know when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke. At that point, paint a mark on top of the flywheel and always return it to that position for the cool down.
That's part of the heat cycling method for proper break in.
 

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