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Tranny or Diff?

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Tweak

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As most of you know, I have an RC10GT. I recently bought a metal case for the Diff, and had a question. When looking through www.towerhobbies.com the entire kit is labeled "Complete Differential Rebuild Kit" but a lot of other places call it a Stealth Transmission. Is the thing a tranny or a diff? I am just trying to make sure, cause I don't want to screw up mhy rebuild or even forgo rebuilding the tranny, if there is oneFor a while I was just assuming both meant the same thing, and that they were both just terms for the power suply to the wheels... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
well I dont know amuch about that car but I assume that when they sad diff rebuild kit it includes everything to rebuild the diff. Just one gear. and the stealth trans would be all the gears... So the diff would be one gear in the trans and, the trans would be all the gears.
 
In a stealth transmission the tranny and diff are the same unit. The differential part consists of two polished rings that tighten down against 12 carbide steel balls. The balls "float" inside 12 holes in the main gear of the transmission. The axle outdrives are held against the rings by a single bolt that adjusts the tightness of the pressure on the diff balls.

Look up an exploded view of the tranny on teamassociated.com, this will become more clear. The tranny for all the AE trucks, electrics or nitros, is basically the same.

Infrequent diff adjustment is the one main causes of burned up Stealths. The balls are supposed to roll on the rings, and once the tranny loosens up they begin to slip on the rings and cause friction. The diff adjustment bolt can be accessed by removing the rear right top camber link and sliding the CVD/dogbone out of the outdrive. You then insert an allen wrench into the hole and tighten it tight (but not so tight as to break the bolt) and back off 1/8 turn, no more.

Also, when you put the assembled diff into the case, be sure the bolt is accessible from the right (passenger) side of the tranny. If you put it in with the bolt facing the left it will still work, but the spinning action of the tranny can loosen the bolt.

Both of these are important to know because as you run it in, the parts will settle in and you'll need to readjust the diff after a tank or so. I check it every third run or so. Hold one wheel and the spur so they can't move and try to turn the other wheel. It should not turn at all or be very hard to turn. If it slips at all the diff is too loose.

Now with both wheels free, hold only the spur and spin one wheel. The opposite wheel should spin in the opposite direction and feel silky smooth. Any "grittiness" at all and it's time for at least new diff rings and possibly new balls. Sometimes you can disassemble the diff and just flip the rings over to get a little more life out of them.

Last tip is when you assemble it, only use enough silicone grease in the diff to fill the diff holes without the balls in them, wipe out all excess. Then pop the balls in the hole and leave it alone. When this puppy gets spinning, excess grease will sling out of the diff and onto the gears, where it dries up into a flaky mess and accellerates wear on the gears. Do not grease the gears, they need to run DRY.
 
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