Tool set for Stadium and Monster trucks

[Heisenburg]

I have 3 Rustler rear wheel drives, 1 Rustler 4 wheel drive, and a Stampede 4x4. What would be a good tool set?

 

[AClegg]

This would be a great tool for those:

LOL... I'm only kidding.

I would just get a few nut drivers and really a really good T-handle hex set. Flat tip up to 2.5mm, and round tip for anything bigger.

 

[Heisenburg]

Yeah, no, I'm not going to get that one, and I'll tell you why. I asked all of my club members and friends, and no one will share the cost with me for the privilege of using it.
They just don't believe me that they can throw their broken RC vehicle into the machine, and it comes out all fixed.

 

[AClegg]

What a bunch of "Non-Believer!" I bet they have no vision of their future either. Losers! You shouldn't hang out with them anymore. They are a bad influence.

 

[olds97_lss]

Since it appears your in the hobby for a decent amount of time, going with a quality set of hex's will pay off in the long run. I use MIP bits with an edriver. Hands are too old to use hand tools for long anymore, if I want to be able to type the next day.

These should cover you for most anything on those trucks, unless they are old and use phillips head:
https://www.amazon.com/MIP-Metric-Speed-Tip-MIP9512/dp/B00D7DJVEI

7mm for any m3 locknuts, 8mm I think for wheel nuts... not 100% on that:
https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Spanner-Screwdrivers-Drivers-Airplane/dp/B07KQYLVK7

I've tried cheap hex drivers and they tend to fail in a bad way, tips snap off in the screw heads, then your stuck grinding it out if it's something you can actually get at.

I use a milwaukee m12 driver with a clutch. In most cases, it's best to screw mostly in with the edriver, then hand tighten the rest of the way to avoid stripping, even with a clutch. I have a set of losi hex's that I've used for 20 years, but any generic 1/4" handle will work with the MIP's as well.

 

[Heisenburg]

Thanx, Olds. I like fixing my cars by hand, rather than just throwing them into a magic machine, like the one

AClegg recommends. I like fixing cars more than driving them.​

I'm thinking to use my cheap drivers in the drill gun, and use the good hand tools for breaking loose and finish tightening.

 

[AClegg]

Loving to drive them more than working on them just means you like to play with toys. If you love working on them more than driving them, then that means it's a hobby. For me, this definitely a hobby. This is why it's really hard for me to by and RTR or a used vehicle. Building it is most of the fun.

Milwaukee tools are my favorite power tools. Yes, I have all the big brands. The MIP hex drives are the best hex bits. I have had my fare share of grinding hex ends down. Especially while building Kyosho vehicles. Those plastics are really hard to tap with a tiny bolt. No issues with the MIP bits.

Olds,
Have you tried using the M12 soldering iron? It works pretty good. It just takes a couple minutes to get hot enough. Once it's hot, it works pretty fast.

 

[Heisenburg]

Ooooh, good soldering iron. Link it for me.
My Rustlers are HPE Rustlers, there is nothing stock about them.
My Milwaukee 1/2 inch drive is way better than my buddy's Snap-On. 1450 ft lbs.

 

[olds97_lss]

Loving to drive them more than working on them just means you like to play with toys. If you love working on them more than driving them, then that means it's a hobby. For me, this definitely a hobby. This is why it's really hard for me to by and RTR or a used vehicle. Building it is most of the fun.

Milwaukee tools are my favorite power tools. Yes, I have all the big brands. The MIP hex drives are the best hex bits. I have had my fare share of grinding hex ends down. Especially while building Kyosho vehicles. Those plastics are really hard to tap with a tiny bolt. No issues with the MIP bits.

Olds,
Have you tried using the M12 soldering iron? It works pretty good. It just takes a couple minutes to get hot enough. Once it's hot, it works pretty fast.

After bashing for 20 years, I'm ok with "playing with toys" at this point. I either want my trucks on my rack ready to bash or out bashing. Time on the bench is wasted time to me these days. Just getting them built so they can take minimal maintenance to make it through a hard day is my goal with every truck now.

Right now I have 2 in pieces waiting for parts and it annoys me to no end. lol! My ERBEv2 and slampede are both down.

Never tried the M12 iron. Thought about it, but not sure it's something I need since I already have a couple regular irons. I have thought about getting the M12 dremel though. If/when my 12V lithium actual dremel dies, I'll probably get the M12 dremel just so I don't have to have 2 chargers, and can also get the higher capacity M12 packs for it like I did for my 3/8 drill, 1/4" driver and hacksall.

 

[Heisenburg]

I started building race cars to be less of an outcast. Between runs, my cars are immaculate, clean, lubed, tyres shined, bodies always waxed, not just the beauty ones.
I have been getting by just fine doing complex lighting schemes on my body work with a cheap 20-30 watt iron. Use the Weller gun for battery terminals and ESC.
Started this thread so I could be more efficient at fixing things.

 

[AClegg]

I have the M12 dremel also. Works just as good as the plug in Dremel brand.

Before that industry took a dump, I use to build elaborate show cars. Mostly trailer queens that you would only see at shows, in movies, and in magazines.

Here is one of my last builds. I didn't do the paint, but I did the fabrications. I whish I could find pictures of the interior. It was pretty awesome also. This isn't my biggest build, but its right up there. I'm trying to locate my better ones.

 

[Heisenburg]

My 1:1 scales are more like time machines at this point. Never driven just kept in air tight bubbles. Except maybe my brother's old car. Kept my perfect attendance in college it did. Missed the bus one day, and jumped out of bed and he drove me to school that day in that car. Everything can't be precious.