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KRANKKILLER

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Well, I got the Picco P2 .21 and have ran into a few walls that I have been working on thanks to a few of your posts!! ChevelleSS and a few others. But My idle is still running high! Its not completely broken in yet due to the rain in the Northeast where I live. But I would like to hear some feedback on any idle issuse! I know I am not the only one! The RD Logics pipe,curved is good! and a RRP dual disk slipper setup too! Well thanks for any advise on the Idle Issues! And What about the fuel pressure line? How long is any of yours? Maybe causing high idle? Any Advise is good advise!

LATER......MITCHELL
 
I don't have the P2, but with most engines the rules still apply.

There's a throttle set screw on the carb, if you back that out, it should lower the idle. If it doesn't, keep reading.

There should be a trim adjustment on your transmitter, is it allowing the throttle to fully close?

You may be running to lean on your low speed needle.

You may have an air leak on the engine somewhere or a pin hole in either your fuel line or pressure line.
 
The Idle screw it turned out pretty far, as for leaks in the lines they are brand new! And I may be that the low end needle is to lean? But it was at factory settings when I bought it for break in. And most times they come rich. But it could be that. I will give it a try soon as it dries out...It does Idle down sometimes so I know its a sparatic thing!!! I just don't know why. Other people have been having the same issue with the motor as well...
 
Does it idle high then drop to a lower idel after you blip the throttle a couple times? Does it idle high after a relatively high speed pass?

Both of these things IME have been due to the low speed needle being a bit lean.
 
Originally posted by KRANKKILLER
But it was at factory settings when I bought it for break in.

that statment in itself means NOTHING!

the way they send it dosn't mean CRAPOLA. make sure YOU adjust for proper break in. dont just take tehre judgment that THEY set it for break in for you already.

traxxas set mine up for me.. AHH YEAH RIGHT OK!
 
Thanks for the imput guys, I will give it a shot I have yet to really run it much because I dont want to ruin it before I even start! I was wondering if the low end was a little lean? But I'm only a year into the nitro bit! So Its coming easier as I go! But still A Newbie I guess! But I know there was a recall on the Ofna version, And I thought that was it at first but Werks said the promblem was with a batch of Ofna's not the P2's and They have No complaints yet! So Let me Know If any of you know different!

THANKS....
 
Krank, there are a number of things to look for here. I had numerous little troubles with my P2 install.

First, I would take the engine out. I know, it's a hassle, but I would definitely do it. Take off the EZ-start and make sure that one-way bearing isn't grinding away at the backplate. Make sure the back plate is tight (4 screws). Now, remove the HSN from the carb, (counting turns so you can replce it at same setting). Also remove the HSN seat assembly. Now spray all those parts (including the carb) with something like WD-40 and blow them off with compressed air, keeping things as clean as possible. I would also take out the fuel tank and give it the same treatment, blowing out the tank and lines. Re-assemble the engine.

Now, re-install the engine, and with air cleaner off, work the throttle linkage (engine off) using the TX. MAKE SURE there is nothing hitting anywhere. I had clearance issues with the ball cup hitting the spur gear nut at WOT. It took me about 15 minutes of careful re-positioning just to eliminate this one problem. I also had issues with the linkage not letting the idle return all the way back to the set screw. At idle, you want to make sure that the idle set screw is actually controlling the idle. You don't want the throttle trim adjustment controlling the idle. Make sure you have a little room for take-up before the linkage actually starts pulling the carb open. Also make sure you have enough spring tension to pull the linkage back. I added a throttle return spring.

Also, make sure the carb cinch-pin assembly is tight. Mine actually vibrated out and I had to get a new one.

After you re-install engine, check and re-check the linkage, I would start the truck and run it on bench with air cleaner off. Blip the throttle lightly and (by looking into carb bore) make sure the carb slide is returning to rest against the idle set screw. Your servo may be glitching enough to prevent it from returning.

Once you are confident that linkage and servo are good to go, then I would look at fuel adjustment. High idle almost always mean too lean somewhere. I would richen up LSN. It might take a lot. Richen it up til you get good stream of smoke out pipe. Run around at half-throttle or less and see if idle seems OK. If idle and part-throttle performance is good, then I would try some higher speed runs. If high-speed idle problem returns, I would start richening up the HSN til it goes away. Of course, then you need to re-set LSN. Some guys will say always set HSN first, but it don't matter so long as you finish up with LSN. HSN affects overall fuel flow. LSN affects off-idle to about 3/4 throttle.

Lemme know how it works out.
 
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Nice to hear!!! Thanks for all the info!!! Seems its me not my motor and I now feel alot better on the whole subject!!! I have to figure it out myself now, and thats that!! I got a RDlogics pipe and so on, so this weekend I can run it alot!!! I will get back to you if things still are not in order but it seems to me that all your info will go a long way!!!


THANKS.......MITCHELL
 
Let us know how it goes! I'm really interested in that engine, hope it works out for you. BTW, the RD Log. pipe, is that the one that looks similar to the stock one, or the in-line type?
 
Here's a pic of the pipe

3469PiccoRD.webp
 
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I had emailed RD Logics about their two 2.5 pipes,
#61510: http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_177.htm
#61505: http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_176.htm

I asked them which would be better for the Picco P2. Below is the reply I got:


Both 2.5 T-Maxx pipe are dual chamber.
Performances of the two different 2.5 T-Maxx pipes are roughly the same, with the curved system 61510 having a slightly better mid-range power band.
So, I will go for 61510.
Thank you for your inquiry.

Sincerely,
Team RDLogics
 
Thanks Chevy, I'm going to Superior Hobbies Sat., I'll have to see if they have it in.
 
Is that the new direct replacement p2 that is cool, like the sirio but better... hmmm might have to save some money...
 
That seems like a great new upgrade for me cause the rc solutions cage is pushing my weitgh limit with my stock trx 2.5 with nova head and sirio piston and sleeve, i need the low end acceleration that my 2.5 doesn't have especially with all the rpm stuff too.
 
P2 has fabulous low-end acceleration, if that is what yer lookin' for.
 
Originally posted by Chrisk


that statment in itself means NOTHING!

the way they send it dosn't mean CRAPOLA. make sure YOU adjust for proper break in. dont just take tehre judgment that THEY set it for break in for you already.

traxxas set mine up for me.. AHH YEAH RIGHT OK!


id have to agree here when i got my motor i read the break in specs and i had to tune my motor way different for proper break in it came no where near where it said to break it in at
 
fuel & pressure line length

KrankKiller,
when i bought my p2 from lhs,they told me 8inches on both lines.
hope u get it running!
this motor ROCKS!!!!

good luck
 
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