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Tmaxx will run but not move

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that does sound like you have no pressure if I were you I would buy the 12 dollar tank and see if that helps... :thumbsup:
 
Matt, you are going to want to get rid of that primer no matter what anyway.

Do you have a fuel filter?

What pipe is on the truck? If it is the stock black plastic one take it apart and make sure the baffle has not melted inside the pipe, if it is still in there remove it.
 
no fuel filter yet just got the truck. One on order. Stack pipe pulled apart and no baffl eis in it. Dont really know about the primer because it was running fie yesterday afternoon. Then I fixed the spur gear mesh and took it out ran about 50 feet then died never ran right since. After that has the symptoms that I tell you now. I looked at how to get the primer out but couldnt figure it out. Matt
 
Have you checked the carb o-ring and make sure it was not damaged, and that the carb is totally seated and tight?

Get rid of the primer anyway. Or buy a new tank without one.

I don't know how mechanical you are but you might want to take the carb apart and give it a good cleaning, without a fuel filter you might have sucked a piece of crap into the needle assembly, that could be causing a blockage.
 
ok I pulled off the tube coming from the pipe to th egas tank. If I blow into the gas tank to get it started it actually ran around the yard until it got warm the died again I think I flooded it this time. I think the problem is the pressure to get it running. I started it by using the primer then started blowing into the tube and once I put it back on the pipe it ran fine except i had the carb adjusted wrong fixed that and now runs fine but died and wont start again going to try after sets a little while. I dont understand why it started ny just blowing into the tube. I understand it pressurized the gas tank but I thought the pipe was supposed to do that.

Ok I fixed that and now my only prob is that it seems like the clutch is now slipping to much. If i pull up to something to climb it the motor revs up but it dont go anywhere but on flat ground it does good. I tried to climb the hill in my back yard and if I stop on the way up it dont want to take off again. Matt
 
After I did the last step eveything is ok now. There is only one prob right now and that i sthat the clutch seems to be slipping to much what should I do to fix that.
 
I have no clue what is the difference. Just a little question I want it to climb stuff really good and really dont care a whole lot about the top speed even though I dont want to lose the top end. What can I modify on the truck that will make it do this. Now I pull up to a hill and the motor revs up and after a while the tires slowly statr spinning. I think it is the clutch but dont really know how to adjust it or if you even can. Will the spring on the spur gear have anything to do with it. If I tighten it up more will it make it more responsive? Thanks Matt

Oh yeah when it gets hot it wont start at all. If I let it cool down it will start and go again then when it gets warm again it will die and not start again until it cools down. Also I have to put my finger over the exauhst pipe to build up pressure after it is warn if I want it to start.
 
Hey NC. Do all stock pipes have baffles? I have a 2.5 with the stock black pipe. Does it have a baffle? And if so should I remove it?? What advantage does this give you? Power? Speed?
 
No all stock pipes do not have a baffle. The pipe on the 2.5 does not have one. So you won't need to worry about it. When I removed mine from my Pro .15 I can't say I notice a big difference, maybe slightly better bottom end, and it sounded much better. I was concerned of it melting inside and blocking the exhaust or pressure feed which was my main reason for removing it. I did not use it very long though before buying a new tuned pipe.

Matt, sorry to say it sounds like it may be time for a rebuild, sounds like the piston and sleeve may be worn. Do you know how much fuel has been run through the engine?

What type surface are you running on, grass, dirt, street? If you are running on grass this will cause the engine to run much hotter and puts quite a bit more stress on the engine. Pro .15s will be difficult to start when they are hot. By putting your finger over the exhaust stinger you are actually forcing fuel into the engine, (this is how you prime it with a primerless tank) when the engine is too hot the fuel vaporizes before getting into the engine, this is why its harder to start when its hot. try richening it up a little bit this will help it to run cooler, but not too much to where it loads up and is spitting alot of raw fuel out of your pipe.

Get it to run good before you start modifying it to climb. Then for more bottom end power you can change the gearing, and pipe for relatively low cost. You can also put a spool in the rear diff but you can no longer run it on the street if you do this. Another thing that will help is using a real heavy thick grease in the diffs, this will give you less slip without actually locking the diff.
 
No I dont know how much was ran through it but I havent bought it yet the guy told me to take a look at it and see what I thought. What do you think it will cost to fix the motor if that is what is wrong with it. Matt
 
I think a traxxas piston and sleeve is about $35, I would also recommend replacing the head shims after removing the head, those are only about $2.50. So if you can get the truck for the right price it might be worth it. You can also send the pro 15 back to traxxas and get a new one with the exchange program for $65. Or just buy a new engine like an OS or Fantom but then you are looking between the $125 - $200 range.
 
Well my recomendation is that if this truck cost more than 2 bills top don't even bother. Just buy a new one because unfortunatly its not a good idea in my opion for newbies to start on used trucks becasue they run into all these problems. I think you would be much better off learing on a new truck that is fully intact. That way you know everything works and you can learn as you go instead of being droped in what seems like a pit of snakes. If you spend more than 200 you could easily be over the cost of a new truck before you know it tring to get this one running... X
 
Very good point X.

Matt, X is right, add up what he wants for it plus what you will have to put in it to get it right and you might very well be at the point of getting the new 2.5, or a Savage for that matter. Then you get to break it all on your own. :D
 
OK thanks guys I think I could get it for 250 and when Iadd it up I could et a new 2.5 that is wider and more powerful. SO I dont think I am going to buy it and instead just buy me a new one. Where do you think I could get the best price for one? I only know of 2 places tower hobbies and ebay. I dont think local stores would be cheaper??
 
Always try your lhs first.

Since they have been out for while and now the Savage is out they should be more readily avail. You should be able to get one in the $389 range.

Thats a much better way to go imo, smart move.
 

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