Tmaxx will run but not move

[NCNitro]

Pull off your pressure line from the pipe to the tank and blow into it while looking into the carb, if you see fuel entering the carb most likely there is no blockage in the carb.

Don't worry about asking questions, that what were all here for, to help each other and learn

Have you tried replacing the plug?

 

[matt]

No i havent tried replacing the plug. But when I first started it it blew bubbles into the gas tank but it doesn't now. When I blow on the line coming from the pipe it pushes gas into the carb. Matt

 

[x_789]

Yeah it has to be grounded.

 

[matt]

could the glow plug being bad cause the problems that I am having. Matt

glow plug glows good and red could the carb get out of adjustment that quick.

 

[NCNitro]

It could, especially if there is a big temperature change from when it was running ok until its not.

if the plug is glowing bright orange it should be fine

 

[matt]

Ok I will wait till tomorrow and see if it runs better or not. If not I will try to tune the carb and see what happens. I really appericate all of you guys that helped me and if you ever post a question that I know I will do my best to anwser it. Matt

 

[NCNitro]

No problem man, let us know how you make out.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Hey X - I think you have a boogar on your finger.....

 

[x_789]

I did but I let your little boy have it he was HUNGRY...X

 

[matt]

OK now it wont run long enough to do anything. It almost acts like something is shutting it off. It will run about 30 seconds?

 

[NCNitro]

It's possible you have it running too rich and it could be loading up and dying, is it spitting raw fuel out of the pipe when it is running?. How many turns out are you on your needles? Has the carb been flipped so that you can get to the lsn? If you look inside the carb how big is the opening for the idle setting?

 

[matt]

It does spit raw gas out of the pipe. The only needle I have messed with is the mid to high one. It is about 2.25 turns out. That is what the instruction manual said. No the carb has not been flipped.

 

[NCNitro]

It sounds like it is running too rich, try turning the needle to the right in 1/16 increments and see what happens. It will take about a minute for each change to take affect, so be patient. Can you ask who you got it from if the lsn has been adjusted? You might have to adjust it too which can be a pain in the ass since the carb has not been flipped. But try the hsn first.

 

[matt]

Yes I can I will try the hs first right now then get back with you.

 

[NCNitro]

cool, good luck. LMK how it goes

 

[matt]

OK I can get it running if I put my finger over the carb like a choke. Then it will run for just a little while and that is it. It will not start if I dont put my finger over the carb??

And adjusting the high needle just makes it run a little longer but then it still shuts off. Does the batteries in the handheld have anything to do with it??

 

[NCNitro]

Here is something else I was just thinking about, how old is the fuel you are using? If it is old or was not stored properly bad fuel can cause tuning nightmares. If its old you might want to go to the hobby shop and pick up a good quality bottle of fresh fuel. I use Trinity monster fuel 20% and I really like it.

Another possibility is you might have an air leak which will also cause an erratic idle and make it impossible to tune.

 

[matt]

Fuel is brand new top fuel 20%. How would I check for a air leak?

OK if I keep pumping the primer while it is running it will run. As soon as I stop pumping it it dies. It is like there is no pressure in the tank to force the fuel out to the carb. I didnt see no holes anywhere. Matt

 

[NCNitro]

That can be tough. To check the tank and fuel filter (you have one I hope) Attach a piece of fuel line to the inlet and outlet of the gas tank, then submerge it under water, block one end of the fuel line and blow in the other, if there is a leak it will bubble, this also works for the filter. If the leak is in the engine itself it can be much harder to find, I find it easier to just go through and seal the entire engine. Check the o-ring at the base of the carb make sure it is not torn or in crappy condition, also check to make sure it is fully seated and the nut is tight. I seal mine with racers edge carb sealer but you can also use ultra copper gasket sealer too. Make sure none gets down into the engine. Another common place for air leaks is the back plate which is slightly more difficult to seal. You will have to remove it and put a small amount of gasket sealer on the gasket for the backplate then reinstall it. Start with the easy stuff first like the tank filter and seal the carb.

Ok, I didnt think to ask if your tank had a primer, that HAS to go! You can remove it and seal it with a screw and some silicone or just buy a new tank for $12. That is the most common place for an air leak. The newer models no longer have a primer due to the amount of problems with them. Again that HAS to go!!!

 

[matt]

Tank has a primer but I submerged the tank and all lines with no leak. As long as I pump the primer it will idle or if I hold it and give it gas and pump the primer it will run as soon as i quit it dies. Also if I prime it a lot before I start it it will run for a while longer.