break it in properly, dont break it early
sorry if this is reposted, or if someone else has already posted this info, I use it and it works very well. I do not reccommend ANYTHING unless it has shown to be a good product or means to make a product better. This has impressed me, so now it's a ritual, don't get ansy it's well worth it to follow through with this method..
The only thing I would add to this to make it more complete or to speed it up a little more if you are in a complete hurry, is to use a small 4-6" fan on low speed on waiting in between cycles, set it on THE LOWEST settings when in between cycles about 8-12" away from the head, also pull the GLow plug so there is no trapped heat pockets in this procedure.
Use a heat gun or hair blow dryer pointed directly down the center of the plug channel and if possible one on the side to heat the case up as well, prior to firing your motor EVERY time you are running or adding to your "break-in" time torwards your 25 minute period.
Also to keep the temps at that 190-200 range use a simple cardboard shroud that covers the entire head except the top button area...
For Rb/Novarossi/hand/ team modified based breaks ins, I add a total of 15 extra cycling minutes for security, usually these motors have been cut and epoxied, lightened or in some other way altered, it's best to get the total heat time up to about 45 minutes, vs the standard 25 minutes. (these motors are usually 500-1000 dollars) its best to get them properly seated and close tolerances...
so anyways on with it,,,,,,
-------------------clip-------------------------------
ENGINE BREAK-IN LIKE THE PROS
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
---------------------------end clip-------------------------
This method has worked wonders for my motors,, examplzz.
*Rb WS7II 9 gallons through it, still stong as f*k (carb needed rebuilt , nothing else) (in MBX-5)
*Rb C-5 7 gallons through it,, still wicked as ever (in Serpent705)
*Top (race modified, epoxied,lightened, all aluminum motor) 4 gallons and still getting jaw dropping looks ( in X-5)
*Rb C-3 over 14 gallons through it, replaced rod, now it's 99.9% as new (in monster pirate)
*Rb Ws7II #2 5 gallons through it, still runs like a raped ape
*Jp/Mugen .15 in team gt , 5 gallons through it, still runs insane, and will smoke touring cars, no stories, its just rediculious power..
the only motor that has had ANY internal work was the C-3 and that was replacing the rod, besides that I check tolerances on all these motors religiously, and none have gone out, proper initial care will give you long life and power.. If only they made an energy drink like that..
hope this helps,
Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
sorry if this is reposted, or if someone else has already posted this info, I use it and it works very well. I do not reccommend ANYTHING unless it has shown to be a good product or means to make a product better. This has impressed me, so now it's a ritual, don't get ansy it's well worth it to follow through with this method..
The only thing I would add to this to make it more complete or to speed it up a little more if you are in a complete hurry, is to use a small 4-6" fan on low speed on waiting in between cycles, set it on THE LOWEST settings when in between cycles about 8-12" away from the head, also pull the GLow plug so there is no trapped heat pockets in this procedure.
Use a heat gun or hair blow dryer pointed directly down the center of the plug channel and if possible one on the side to heat the case up as well, prior to firing your motor EVERY time you are running or adding to your "break-in" time torwards your 25 minute period.
Also to keep the temps at that 190-200 range use a simple cardboard shroud that covers the entire head except the top button area...
For Rb/Novarossi/hand/ team modified based breaks ins, I add a total of 15 extra cycling minutes for security, usually these motors have been cut and epoxied, lightened or in some other way altered, it's best to get the total heat time up to about 45 minutes, vs the standard 25 minutes. (these motors are usually 500-1000 dollars) its best to get them properly seated and close tolerances...
so anyways on with it,,,,,,
-------------------clip-------------------------------
ENGINE BREAK-IN LIKE THE PROS
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
---------------------------end clip-------------------------
This method has worked wonders for my motors,, examplzz.
*Rb WS7II 9 gallons through it, still stong as f*k (carb needed rebuilt , nothing else) (in MBX-5)
*Rb C-5 7 gallons through it,, still wicked as ever (in Serpent705)
*Top (race modified, epoxied,lightened, all aluminum motor) 4 gallons and still getting jaw dropping looks ( in X-5)
*Rb C-3 over 14 gallons through it, replaced rod, now it's 99.9% as new (in monster pirate)
*Rb Ws7II #2 5 gallons through it, still runs like a raped ape
*Jp/Mugen .15 in team gt , 5 gallons through it, still runs insane, and will smoke touring cars, no stories, its just rediculious power..
the only motor that has had ANY internal work was the C-3 and that was replacing the rod, besides that I check tolerances on all these motors religiously, and none have gone out, proper initial care will give you long life and power.. If only they made an energy drink like that..
hope this helps,
Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
