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Tips for Pactra Arcyl?

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MyJeep

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I just got back from LHS and picked up some Pactra paints. I have no experience using this Pactra paints. Lol... they are on sale (last day) for $2.00 each

pactra.jpg


Anyone out there has any tips how to properly use them?

My LHS says I can use water to thin them down. Yes they are water-based. I am sure you can use water to clean up, but as for thinning them will water works?

So far I have only use Faskolor. They are too darn thick. I only have a very small Testro (SP?) compressor and there is not enough PSI to push those paint out. I can still paint it but unable to do details paint.
 
Pactra Acryl is indeed water based. So, you can use water to thin the paint. I have only used it once, but it seemed to be nice and thin right in the jar. At least much thinner than Faskolor. But a few drops of water in each small cup of paint will stretch it a bit. And then just use warm water for cleanup.
 
That is my favorite paint, and man that's an awesome deal! It covers great, but do not thin it, it works very well right from the jar, as they are much thinner than the Fascolor paints already, and clean up is a breeze. Shoot them between 15 - 20 psi straight from the jar and you should get great results.
 
Thank you for the inputs. Darn right, this is a good deal for the paint. Towers selling them at $3+ each plus shipping and tax.

I have this compressor. Not sure how many PSI does it put out. It works like crap with Faskolor.
Do I need a new compressor? I live in apartment so large and noisy compressor is not an option.

I am thinking about this .

FYI: I am using Paasche VL.
 
not to sure but your link to the air compressor says this
# Oilless Diaphragm
# Fan Cooling
# 110/115v
# Max Pressure 40lb
# 6 ft Power Cord
# 1/4 NPS Air Hose Fitting

So it sounds like it shots out 40PSI max on a good day.
 
I am pretty sure it is not doing 40 PSI. I have my Paasche VL at full air blown and it hardly move faskolor paints out. Yes, I have thinned the paint with water.

The next up compressor Testor has is 50 bucks more and it claimed CFM at working pressure .51 @ 20 psi. So, the cheaper one I got has be be lower than that.

Oh shot, I can feel I am going to get a compressor off ebay.
 
I found that your typical blue windshield washer fluid works very well for cleaning your brush after using the water based paints... Just a tip I picked up..
 
Pactra acrylics are great paints. Thinning, I recommend using the same medium as Faskolor: rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol has a lower surface tension than water making the paint spray easier. Windex works the same way and the blue dye does not affect the paint.

Rubbing alcohol dries quicker than water. Because of this, there's less chance of the paint being pushed around on the body by the airbrush spray. It dries much quicker than water allowing you to move on to different colors quicker.

I usually thin all my paints before I spray. I thin to the consistency of milk...every time. I have very little to no problems when I spray. Each coat of paint needs to be very light for durability.

When it comes to clean up, use plain rubbing alcohol. At 75 cents for a large bottle, it's pretty cheap. Just clean up the brush inside and out with alcohol. When done spraying at the end of the day, just spray a full color cup of windex or windshield washer fluid and store your brush.

Compressors are a common question for painters. While the hobby compressors are nice because of their diminutive size, they add a few more problems. The pulsing action of the diaphram can make a solid line look dotted or splotchy. It's quite difficult to do good drop shadows with these compressors because of the pulsing.

I strongly recommend you go to Sears or Harbor Freight and pick up a standard tank compressor. A good tank compressor, about a 3 gallon jobbie will fulfill all your needs. Pick up a good moisture trap for it and you're good to go. Most compressor fittings are 3/8", so your airbrush hose won't need any adapters to fit. A good moisture trap is a must, though, and can be had from 10-20 bucks. In total, you can expect to pay about a hundred bucks for a compressor and moisture trap. Campbell Hausfeld and Craftsmen are good names to stick by, and they usually come with decent regulators.

I also recommend picking up the quick disconnect kit for it. You'll find plenty of uses for your compressor other than painting. Filling up the football or car tires, cleaning off your car/truck after running, using it as an excuse for a good air-nailer, you get the picture.

The amount of pressure you should spray is another common question. This is where practice comes in. Learn to thin your paints so that paint flows smoothly at your desired pattern. The variables involved are paint consistency and air pressure. Play with each to come up with what you're looking for. Some paints spray beautifully at 20 psi while others spray better at 30 or even 35 psi. I've even sprayed at 55-60 psi with excellent results. I preach to people starting out to take notes when spraying. Note the type of paint used, how thin it's sprayed, spray patterns achieved, and psi used. This will help you next time you go to pick up a paint. I have a 200 page notebook full of such notes as well as tips and tricks picked up from really great painters. Before I paint, I constantly refer to it to refresh my techniques and my paint parameters.

On a final note, if you have Pactra Lacquers and Acrylics, be careful when switching from one to another. It's ok to spray acrylic over lacquer, but lacquer over acrylic can easily end in disaster (lacquer eating the acrylic). Also, remember the brush. If you mix lacquer and acrylic paints together, you get a sludge that dries quickly and like concrete. Before switching between the two types of paints, thoroughly clean your brush inside and out...then clean it again. Do NOT leave any chance of lacquer coming into contact with semi-dried or dried acrylic unless you want a huge headache of trying to figure out why your brush won't work.

Sorry for being so long winded, just trying to make your experience as frustration free as possible.

Before I forget, if you run into spider webbing, there's a couple of things you can do. First, drop down the pressure a tad. This usually does the trick. I've also heard that spiderwebbing is commonly caused by static build-up. To combat this, prior to spraying wet a paper towel down and wipe down the OUTSIDE of the body. No need to soak it, but don't rub a dry towel on it either. A good wet paper towel not dripping will do wonders. I do this now just as a precaution.
 
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