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Throttle return spring?

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T

TheShagler

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I was looking at my trunk and I noticed that the throtle return spring prevented my carbarater from fulling opening. Is this the way that its Suppose to be or should I take the throttle return spring off? It seems as if the throttle return is preventing me from WOT. If I take that spring off I'm going to need a fail safe arnt I?
 
you should have a fail safe anyway those return springs dont do any good because it does not have the power to pull the servo back so it actually does no good IMO
 
I had the same problem. I pulled it and put it on the rollbar/handle to the throttle linkage itself. I also stretched it ever so slightly. That spring is too tough out of the box.

But, you always want a failsafe if possible. Venom makes a good one that is cost effective. XTM's are probably the cheapest but I'm still not sold on them as 2 out of the 3 I got failed right out of the box. So now I only run MPI and Venom failsafes which are just like the Futaba one.
 
I too don't like the XTM failsafe, they never worked on my RC's. I have a Dynamite failsafe on my Savage and a Venom failsafe on my RS4 3 TypeSS. You should check out the new OFNA failsafe. The review on RC Nitro magazine says they work well and they're smaller than the XTM.
 
I have to disagree with TWIZTED. The throttle return is not only for making sure your throttle closes to what you set it at when at idle, but if your receiver battery goes out, a fail safe will do nothing. The servo loses its torque and thus the throttle return spring will be able to bring it back to closed, or idle. I dont use a spring, but I use a rubberband around the arm of the slide carb and around the throttle opening itself. Cheap, but I need to replace it every few weeks.
 
what is the point of a fail safe then if it doesn't save your ass if your batterys die.... and is it cool if I just take the spring completely off?

Çh®i§tiªñ what did you do about the spring? did you take it off or leave it after you streched it?
 
The fail safe works if your transmitter battery dies and there is still juice in your receiver battery.
 
"some." my battery died with my Dynamite and the car did stop, but the failsafe was not active. It could have been the failsafe, but I feel a lot more safe when I have my rubberbands on. Just to make sure the thing closes. I would hate to have a runaway and crash the car into something, and god forbid its a person or an expensive car. If it were a savage, Id be extra careful. That thing could do some damage.

You know that kel. You savage almost took out a tree. :p
 
Yeah, I was lucky that one time it just hit dead on a tree and not a person. But I didn't have a failsafe at that time. I meant "some", because I believe Ofna and Venom's failsafe will do just that. Obviously, the rubberband or throttle return spring will work. But let's not forget (even though this is thread is not about signal interference) a failsafe will turn on when it detects interference.
 
I suggest you not take off your throttle return spring, do what Çh®i§tiªñ said and streach out the spring some. You are the most safe that way.
 
As soon as I get home tonight I will post a pic of where my spring is. When looking at the throttle linkage you will find the L shaped servo horn. It connects to the black rods. I ran the spring from that servo horn to the roll/bar handle.

I think both are the best way to go. While a spring will bring it back in the event of an RX electrical failure, it WILL NOT be able to overpower a servo that goes haywire due to interference. If your TX batteries go while you are at WOT and your RX batteries are fine, you will quickly find out what I mean. Also, run a 6volt hump pack when running a failsafe. If you run regular AA's you WILL have problems. Especially when they slightly drop in power from their 'new' state.

Lastly, the comfort of having a failsafe is this:

Your ride is going WOT towards a bunch of kids and NOTHING you do with the TX will respond (batteries are fine you just happened to blow a potentiometer). Kill the power on your TX and watch your ride come to a stop. This is what happened to me once. And no spring would have helped.
 
I run a throttle return spring only on my Fantom and will be getting one for the Hyper in the near future. I have never had any problems with the spring not having the strength to pull the throttle closed. In fact, I have tested it several times...WOT shut the TX off, and the truck comes to a stop.

It is all in the strength of spring you use and the way you apply it.

As for failsafes and their abilities to defend against other transmitters or EMI (electromagnetic interference), I can only say this...they should work if designed properly and set up properly. I won't use them, because I feel for the money my throttle return spring works just fine. If I get indications of interference...I'll just shut my TX off and let the spring do its thing (admittedly if someone else has a TX on my freq and hi-jacks my RC...then I'm screwed, but the likelihood of that is pretty low in the areas I play).

Bottom line is spend the money you feel necessary to protect your investment and make you confident that your RC will remain firmly under your control.
 

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