This is so sad!

[4u2nv]

It took a long time (Like 2 and a half weeks) when I emailed and asked them about a bad part I had on .15fe. By the time they replied I scrapped the whole thing. I suppose they have alot of crap to sift threw with all the lil kids asking them to sponsor them and asking them retarded questions like why there car wont run. Maybe ya should try giving them a call directly, and then tell them youll email them pics. Maybe the rep would give ya his Email addy and ya can get it taken care of faster.

 

[Plaidfish]

this pic concerns me as you have some crud built up in that channel on your conrod.....first off why is ANYTHING built up there????
second does that channel have a pinhole coming from the top and goes through to the crank??
if there is and that lil tiny hole got covered that's what tore your crankshaft up.......
also is there any type of bushing in the lower part of your conrod??? does it fit on the crank journal tight but allow smooth rotation????

 

[Revo Rancher]

Yep, I am leaning the way with Plaid. From the looks fo the crank it looks like a bearing seized, and the likely culprit seems to be the conrod pinhole being blocked. The bearing (bushing) surface needs the oil from the engine to lube itself. It looks like with the pinhole covered your bushing lacked lube.

 

[beason]

from the looks of that engine.. you got your moneys worth.. i would bite the bullet and get another..

 

[Da Hellion]

My rod

My engine had the hole coverd by shavings from the starter drive bolted forward:shrug:

 

[Plaidfish]

I'd get another new engine and continue w/ trying to get that waranteed or pick up a cheap one on flea-bay and rebuild it....can't hurt to have a backup right????

 

[mnm]

The hole isn’t block at all perfectly clean and accessible, what you see there is just surface crud, yes it does have a channel and a bushing in there but in the pictures above you can't see the bushing, the lighting is weird. I mean I did run the engine through 4-5 gallons with out servicing/rebuilding it at all until I had the crankshaft break. I though I would expect a little surface residue. I mean the piston came out perfect clean? :smoke:

Here are some pictures of the channel, hope this helps :

Yes it can’t hurt to have a back up, but when you’re on a tight budget at moments another engine isn’t really necessary.

 

[Plaidfish]

if you are going to rebuild it use a dremel and polish that channel out.....if it's not smooth you might be slinging fuel/oil off the channel and not getting enough to the crank.....do you have a micrometer?? check the round on your crank journal...see if it's real egg shaped or still fairly round...if you weren't getting enough oil there you'll see it deform real fast.....I try and tear my mills down every other gallon to check the guts out...it's a good practice to get into.....and it's not as hard as most people think.....looks like you got the hang of tearing it apart already.....I just did my P5 and I found dirt INSIDE the carb throat but it's all fine inside....if I didn't have a habit of checking that stuff I'd be looking to get another 250 mill......that sucks......after 4-5 gallons I wouldn't really expet a warrantee.....but it's always worth a try......good luck w/ the mess.....

 

[mnm]

ill make sure i go ahead and clean everything up before i install it back. here is a picture of where the rod connects to the crackshaft. it semms pretty round to me and still in good shape (meaning not worn out). when you say micrometer do you me a caliper? if so , then yes i do have a digital caliper.

and ill make sure i check all my engines more preiodically than i used to. thanks!

 

[mnm]

well i went ahead and sent the Engine around 2-3 weeks ago in a priority mail box...

Today There was a knock on the door and a man saying UPS while I was playing with my xbox360. I went ahead and opened the door, and received the package. At first I thought it was an order i made from a site a while back, when I read what was on the label it said HPI racing. I was excited and scared at the same time, since they never emailed me or called about the problem or anything telling what they where going to do,i did'nt know what i was expecting, my old engine with the same broken crank and a letter or something else.

Let’s experience this together and see what’s in the box shall we?

I am sure the pictures are self explanatory . Apparently they sent me a whole new Engine.
-mnm-

 

[NSantana]

Congrats,



It great to hear they came through. I noticed something though..you might want to find a two needle carb for that thing. It looks like that's a single needle carb. In any case, congratulations on the new engine and may this one not share the same unfortunate end as did the old one did.

 

[Nevaren]

I have that motor on my MT2 SS it's 2 needle, the ls needle is on the other side of the carb

 

[mnm]

Yes, the LS speed needle is on the other side held buy a nut. Which has to be secured on correctly using thread lock, or it will come loose (which isn’t a good thing)

 

[bustedgears]

I've always had good luck with HPI's warrantee.

They've taken care of me without question before. Enjoy your new engine.

 

[4u2nv]

wow, good to hear they came threw for ya. Always good to hear a happy ending!

 

[Plaidfish]

I like happy endings too

 

[Jeep]

I'm still a NEWB, but I learned ALOT from your pics about these engines.
Most 2 stroke engines are ported in the side of the cylinder from the intake side through a cut in the piston skirt to the crankcase on upstroke, then forced on downstroke up to the upper intake port above the piston into the combustion chamber,,,,,,,,,,I never thought that they would use the crank output shaft as a valve to allow fuel into the crankcase,,that certainly explains the carb/intake angle. And why your output shaft broke, it appears to be a cast type shaft and a cut away like that for the fuel intake could certainly weaken it tremendously if there was even the slightest of casting flaws involved.
I could be totally off,,,but seems like a defect to me.

Jeep