Things to consider when you get bb kit.

[northleaf]

As the title suggest, I'm planing to get a bb mount kit for my revo since we all do love wild toys.

Reinforce drivetrain? Will the diffs hold up? Reinforce the gears in the tranny? Really I could just put it on with the engine I have in mind and replace what breaks over time but I rather sit with the parts in hand so the revo is more than a shelf decoration.

The engine which I'm considering to fit into the revo is a TT .28 pro engine which is stock on my TT EB4 S3 (going to get a .21 for the S3 to start newbie racing so why not make use of the .28 engine?), not sure if it will fit right into it yet. Still on the planning and research stage in this little project.

Any ideas/experience with what's going into the thrash once you went big on your revo? Let me know, I'm all ears.

Forgot to add, its a bashing toy. All glory to this thing, its durability is amazing and the only time I successfully break something is when I find a tree who had a tad to much fertilizer....

Skickat från min LT18i via Tapatalk 2

 

[Childresshunt]

If your going .28 the tranny should be ok just as parts break replace with robinson racing gears but your going to wanna add steel centers along with steel axles. and thats really about it. Diffs should be ok but if they do go replace with e revo diffs.

 

[ausher]

The stock axles seem to handle the lrp zr.30x. My mip cvd's are falling apart. Stock diff's held up to the lrp z.28, but I put e revo diff's in.

 

[REVO-5309]

I'm having problems with my 28 with the gear box. The plastic gears are all good but I'm snapping the pins into 3 peices lol it's rather annoying

Mines pretty much all stock still apart from 1/8 losi clutch. I'm also using the tmaxx tires

 

[TK5310]

I broke every gear in the trans - RR metal now.
Then I started breaking trans top shafts - I made one from 8740 steel & heat treated it.
Then I started shearing the drive pins - 8740 for them too.
I managed to shear the steel rear drive shaft the other day.

I smashed about 6 diffs in total, I use erevo diffs with hot racing alloy cups now but still kill the rear diff occasionally (either the pinion strips or it smashes the spider gears).
The trick to getting the diffs to last a while is to shim them up pretty tight so the gears stay in close mesh under power.

I killed a few clutches before I settled on a Losi 8T clutch with aftermarket hard alloy shoes.

I have a RR spur/slipper conversion on it as well - I chew up the spur gears a bit, on my 3rd now, but they do last a while.

I've got some cheap ass steel CV axles - keep shearing the pins in them, got some TRX CV axles coming now so I can buy spare parts for them when I break stuff.

Another hint - don't be tempted to gear it up too much, yes a BB will pull tall gearing no problem & will fling a revo along at a stupid high speed, but you will blow the tyres off the rims constantly & tear out the sidewalls etc - gets frustrating & expensive.
I run 17/38 gearing now which seems pretty good all round.

A lot of this carnage is probably because I run a picco .28 team turbo engine with a buggy header (side pipe), EFRA pipe & 30% race blend nitro - it's really a bit much for a revo.

I've rebuilt it since this pic, I had to weld up some cracks in the chassis so it's black now & wears either road rage tyres or bow ties on 40 series wheels.

 

[ausher]

I have Robinson racing steel gears inside and out. I haven't broke any pins or shafts yet even with the slipper locked up. So far everything is holding up fine. Only problems I'm having is keeping all four tires on the ground. I bash this revo hard to to see what will break. I put the Traxxas sway bars on it and pretty much destroyed the rear one. I did run 18/38 which seemed perfect. Then put 16/38 and the motor raps out too fast, but still pretty fast with trencher x tires. I'm going to adjust the buku clutch to engage at a higher rpm to see if it will do back flips. It almost will....

 

[TK5310]

Yeah, mine will do a backflip everytime if I go WOT from a standing start, a couple of times it's done a full flip & landed (roughly) back on it's wheels.
I gotta get another wheelie bar, whenever it's on a harder surface I spend way to much time running around flipping it back over after I give it a little too much throttle.

Did a backflip at speed the other week, WOT in 1st gear & hit a bump, got a little air, came back down & the tyres grabbed & she flipped over backwards & slid about 10m on the roof.

 

[Punisher]

Yeah, mine will do a backflip everytime if I go WOT from a standing start, a couple of times it's done a full flip & landed (roughly) back on it's wheels.
I gotta get another wheelie bar, whenever it's on a harder surface I spend way to much time running around flipping it back over after I give it a little too much throttle.

Did a backflip at speed the other week, WOT in 1st gear & hit a bump, got a little air, came back down & the tyres grabbed & she flipped over backwards & slid about 10m on the roof.

He is not kidding folks! . . . TK5310's Revo runs on a diet of 30% race blend nitro and mild steel parts!

TK and I run mostly on high traction surfaces (asphalt) which is really hard on driveline parts - if you only run on dirt the driveline will last a little longer.

I've got a Revo with a LRP .28 in it - I'm sick of fixing it and it's being sold now.

The Revo was never designed with a BB in mind - if you want to run a BB in a Revo, you pretty need to upgrade the whole driveline to metal . . . use a RR slipper and Losi 8ight four shoe clutch.

 

[TK5310]

& buy shares in Robinson Racing!

Carnage from last night = 1x savage 17T clutch bell, 1x RRP spur gear, 1x steel axle pin, 2x tyres blown off rims.

On the bright side the clutch is finally holding up just fine & the rear diff didn't let go, tis feeling a little sad tho.

 

[olds97_lss]

I got tired of blowing trans gears, so I replaced all the innards with RRP steel. Haven't had the trans open since the install probably 2 years ago (if not more).

I stick with stock sliders for the center and outer. They seem to hold up fine, I just keep a set of spares on hand. When they develop a lot of slop in the pivot points, I replace them, which is about once a year.

I run 15/38 gearing with revo 3.3 tires and an LRP28S3 in mine. Just installed the THS BB rear pipe as I was running a duratrax warhead header with LST2 pipe on the side.

For engine protection, run a new era 3 point roll bar that is raised about 3/4 inch on the rear and a wing kit installed. I also cut the top 2 fins off my cooling head so it won't make contact with the ground. The engine bay area of the chassis likes to bend when your engine hits the ground. Haven't had an issue with mine ever on this revo.

I also run alloy clutch shoes with a 1/8th clutch/bell. I moved the trans forward about 1/4" so I could fit 1/8 scale stuff on it. I removed the stock slipper shoes and replaced them with an old t-maxx (or savage) fiber brake disk. Seems to handle the torque just fine, but still allow for slip if I want it. Was pretty cool how the little holes in the disk lined up just right: