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The Revo broke a paw :(

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S

SVORay

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I'm not sure when or how it happened but I broke a front half shaft :opps:


The truck drove great and I never even thought twice about it until I had it on the bench about to charge it. I picked up the front end so I could plug in the charger and there it was, a half shaft dangling down from a wheel. The poor thing has probaly had this hurt paw for days now with me still driving it. I usualy look the truck over before and after I use it. The shaft must have still been stuck in place for a while but that doesn't make sence with the centrifical force thats acting on these parts. O well.

Now if anyone has any special secret tips on a quick and plainless R&R of this parts, I'm all ears :) It really doesn't look to bad, I guess you pull :the tire, shock rod, upper A arm, and then un bolt the old shaft?


Well wish me luck....not on fixing the truck but withdraws from not having it for about a week :( I got extra parts but no shafts. I do how ever have this habbit of ordering extra parts when I do break something. So next time around should be easier.

Ray
 
Secret tip: tape it. Feel free to share this tip with the others. See how much I'm learning.teehee.
Poor Ray. You should go to rehab. Some of you boys are so addicted to nitro that I think that would be a good idea - R/C Rehab! Sorry to hear about your Revo. Hang in there Ray, you'll get your fix soon.
 
That's easy! You don't need to take the arms or anything off! The half-shafts are held in place by a yoke pin with a hex head on them. Just unscrew the half you tore up, take the square joint piece out, put it back in the new half, slide it back in there and screw the yoke pin back in! 15-20 minutes, tops!

Don't go ripping the front end up to do this, you'll kick yourself in the noggin' later!
 
The tape thing is easier and will only take a few seconds! No wonder your username is "Monkey Wrench. I could use one of you at home. J/K
 
Ray, like MW says, it is real easy. Stock up on a few of those unless you go the MIP CV route. I run stock driveshafts for racing with a BB and have a few cracks in mine but no failures. When they fail, off I go to the LHS for MIP SS CV's.
 
Rancher, I was considering going the MIP route when I cracked one of mine and my buddy at the LHS mentioned that the Revo racers locally were actually going back to the stockers because a few had warped. What they do is stick a small piece of dowel rod between the two halves to reinforce it. I simply wanted to pass it along, because I was surprised when he mentioned that about the CVD's. Even had them in my hand and he convinced me otherwise.
 
Have heard no real props on the MIP's, stick with the stockers for now. Traxxas did come out with some for the Jato, maybe the Revo is in the works.
 
OK, got to cover a few items here.

Most likely Traxxas did the Jato as that class is usually .15 so the ultimate strength of them is not an issue. For Revo, there are a lot of BB's out there, so the metallurgy and engineering is important.

And for 59.00 for MIP's at each end plus another 59.00 for the center drives, yep, I can afford a crapload of stockers, and the little blue boots, to boot,...ha, haaa, cracking myself up tonight.

BTW, stopped at Nitrohouse.com (OFNA) on my way home this afternoon frmo San Diego. They have the PCR temp gun on sale for 29.00. Picked one up. My 19.00 Radio Hack one is/was acting up so I went up a notch. :tophat:
 
Hey thanks for the tips guys and girls.


I was looking at that Hex screw wondering if it was that easy to swap in a new shaft or not. I'm sure glad I asked before I did something else like tear the front end a part :) Anyways, Kelly, I'm with you on the tape but I'm in no hurry. I'll keep that in mind the next time it happens and I'm in a hurry ;) Now if I can get these guys to come down on the shipping of these parts I bought. 22.00 bux is almost twipple what it would cost to ship them to me :( I guess I'll have to shop around next time but I hate buying stuff for 3 different sellers.



Thanks
Ray

ps, I'm usualy into buying better parts to replace the stock parts but I really don't think the stock half shafts warrant them. I mean their cheap to begin with and hopefully they want break that often.
 
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Ray, I know (and personally) Texas is big, no HUGE, but how far is Rush RC (Bruce)? Order everytthing and make one trip if he is only like an hour out?!?:2cents:
 
I'm not that smart ;)


Well Bruce is about 360 miles from me which in Texas terms, that next door ;) It's nothing personaly with Bruce, after all I bought my Revo from him :thankyou: I'm just used to buying stuff out of state to avoid instate taxes. I will say it's easier dealling with Bruce instead of who I'm currently dealing with :whack: In the future I'll look into Bruce more.


Ray
 
Ooouccchh!! That's like three hours at 60 MPH. OK, and I am like you; if Rob's R/C can't get it NOW and for the best price, save the tax and get it from Rush!(for us CA folks)
 
Revo Rancher said:
Ooouccchh!! That's like three hours at 60 MPH. OK, and I am like you; if Rob's R/C can't get it NOW and for the best price, save the tax and get it from Rush!(for us CA folks)
Click to expand...

If you can do Dallas from my house in 3 hours @ 60mph....you're my new driver ;) My best time was to the Dallas North toll from home in 5 1/2 hours @ 80+mph. That was down town and not just barely entering the metroplex. I'm usualy in Dallas all the time, so far I've chancled two trips which one was this Friday as to Dallas. I still may end up buying some stuff from Bruce since it's pretty close compared to stuff shipping from Cali. Also my closest LHS is 20 miles one way, I guess this hobby isn't that popular out this way or something for a store. I wonder if Bruce would want a West Texas garage partner :)


Ray
 
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Ok I'm a little lost on how to remove the broken shaft without taking her a part? I kind of got the idea on removing the pice next to the front deff but can't figure the end by the tire out?


Thanks
Ray
 
If it's the front, unscrew the bolt for the toe link and take the wheel nut off, the wheel and the hex pin. With the toe link hanging off, you should be able to swing the axle carrier enough to pull the axle and shaft out the rear of the axle carrier. Worst case, you take the pillow balls out of the axle carrier, then pull the axle out.


Clear as mud yet?
 
Ray, bring your rig next time you go to Dallas and go check out SRH (SpeedRacer Hobbies). Awesome indoor track! They run tuesday night and saturdays. You never know who you'll see there (like our favorite Revo driver Slaydaddy) and some of the other Traxxas guys. Anyway, it's a really cool set up. It's in Richardson and it's a quick shot from Dallas North Tollway and Belt Line (I usually stay at the Marriott there in Addison when I go).
 
jetmechG550 said:
Ray, bring your rig next time you go to Dallas and go check out SRH (SpeedRacer Hobbies). Awesome indoor track! They run tuesday night and saturdays. You never know who you'll see there (like our favorite Revo driver Slaydaddy) and some of the other Traxxas guys. Anyway, it's a really cool set up. It's in Richardson and it's a quick shot from Dallas North Tollway and Belt Line (I usually stay at the Marriott there in Addison when I go).
Click to expand...

I always stay at that Hilton Garden inn there off of Belt line and Dallas toll. Well it's not actually off the toll but I'm sure you know what I mean :) The toll is easy to get around on and Belt Line has some great places to eat. They also got a good Bar B Q place alled Randy White's off of Midway just down from Belt line. Anyways, I'll have to check it out when I get a chance.

Monkey Wrench said:
If it's the front, unscrew the bolt for the toe link and take the wheel nut off, the wheel and the hex pin. With the toe link hanging off, you should be able to swing the axle carrier enough to pull the axle and shaft out the rear of the axle carrier. Worst case, you take the pillow balls out of the axle carrier, then pull the axle out.


Clear as mud yet?
Click to expand...

I'm just lost on the terminology of the whole thing :( Heres a picture I took before my cam's batteries died. You can see that the shaft is only held on by it's connection to the hub. Anyways, I'm guessing you pull the hub off but undoing those two hex screws and then the two A arm screws? Then there seems to be a hex screw up top where it broke off from and how I can pull the old u joint off from there?

Thanks
Ray
DSC00255.gif
 
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Pull the plastic hex nut from the wheel side off, slip out the pin, and then the axle stub will pull from the inside (shaft side) out. The plastic hex nut will have some resistance but just pop it off. It is held on by a little pin that is cross drilled through a hole in the stub axle. PM me for mmy cel number if you want clearer instructions. I can see where you are confused.
 
Ok here is a picture of my Talon holding the part(s) in question ;) How do I sperate the hub from this broken shaft?

Thanks
Ray


DSC00256.webp
 

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