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The badest tmaxx

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roindaouse

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I want you guys to check out my tmaxx! I havent seen any that are as nice. Can someone tell me how tho post pictures?
 
Good Lord Man!! And an organized work area on top of that!

You can't be for real!

:jk:

Excellent work, roi. I almost wouldn't want to abuse it.

almost...
 
Even the gearing is all metal. The turnbuckles are all titanium with the huge heavy ends. What can I do next?

I am stumped. What is there left to do. I had a 4 wheel steer kit and a supercharged sirio motor but I took them off.
 
ummm.... you're doin' it!

keep braggin!

What are the differentials?

And what the hell does that third servo do??
 
Hey is that the original chassis?? How did you get a 24.7 on there without a conversion kit?? I have the same skeleton from American CNC Machining. I hated the A-arms, so I ditched them for RPM's. But again, is that the original chassis?? Sweet ride!
 
Nice show truck.....I could think of allot of things to do to it..hehe. I've seen much nicer but that's pretty freaking pimped out, Dual engine Maxx with DUal superchargers and custom Titanium everything is probably the badest I've seen that one a bunch of shows. Can't remember which rc mag that was in. I could break and bend plenty of chit on your beast in an hour. Looks are nice until it's time to bash

I would add a polished cold air intake (about $20 on ebay) and finish it off with a K&N air filter instead of the Motor Saver (they work awesome but the K&N looks great). It appears that you mod'd the original chassis.....I would do a Titanium big bore conversion kit from hardcore racing in "silver" finish with an EBmod'd Picco .26 or better yet an EBmod'd Sirio .27XL pro. The longer chassis will give you more high speed stability. I would swap out your current alluminum arms with the UE SuperMaxx Pro suspension kit. I would add a Nova racing adjustable cooling head to said engine/s.

EDIT.......What Kind of break system do you have? If you don't already have it, I'd get the killer perfromacne brake kit from Robinson Racing. What kind of CVD's are you running?? Nothing's better then the UE Titanium's.....I'd get a pair for the front rear and the center kit. I'd also get one of the Killer rollcages from RC Solutions....it will protect all that alluminum stuff if/when you roll over and it looks bad ass.

That should keep your busy for a while if you want "the badest maxx".

Peace
 
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this truck is no show truck. It gets bashed hard!! It is a streched chassis. Robinson braking kit and slipper clutch. Acnc arms arent the prettiest but they hold up to some serious crap. My chasis is a xtm and the motor has a roto start. Does the cold air intake really work?
 
diffs are aluminum casings with robinsons racing gears. I know there are some proffesional show trucks much nicer but this thing gets bashed hard with the best of them. You should see the faces of people when I through this thing in the dirt
 
Can i ask a question?

How did you get enough clearance between the fuel tank and the engines starter housing?

I have the XTM kit as well and with that fuel tank, i had to drill 4 new holes about 3/4 inch over from the engine.

I'm running an OS 21 RG-X(P) on mine. Is it just OS's larger starter housing that i'm fighting with?

Either way, that is a good looking ride. Also, did you use ACNCM's bulk heads?

I'd get the pro-line steering upgrade kit and ditch that servo saver. The pro-line kit has a built in servo saver and it's a lot more responsive.
 
I also had to drill the chasis to fit the fuel tank. Where can I find this proline steering kit your talking about?

My bulk heads are integy. I got them before the acnc kit. I would have used the acnc parts since I have had such good luck with them!
 
SUp guys,

Roindaouse - Sweet dude, I shouldn't have assumed that it was a show only truck but 90% or more of similar hop-ups are show only trucks. I personally wouldn't run the metal tranny case or a metal reciver box or metal servo supports but it looks sweet doesn't it. I bash HARD and I've broken plenty of servo cases with plastic support, metal servo stands are even more likely to break servo cases as metal on plastic is an accident waiting to happen...I need to get some alluminum servo cases...lol Show only trucks pretty much make me wanna vomit..lol.

I wouldn't reco an air intake system if you bash but it's great for show. The air intake system will increase the sound some on a Big Bore or race ported small bore IMHO but their's to much of a chance of the air intake poping off and hosing your engine from dirt in the carb. Their is a increase of power in theory but THeir wasn't any noticable increase in acceleration in general with even the best Intake sytem I've seen but you will have to richen the engine as you are getting more cool air. A Motor saver air filter and an intake lets your engine truly breathe but definitley not for hard bashers.

As for the Bellcrank and servo saver, the stock Traxxas setup is pretty much crap and I threw it in the garbage where it belongs. I would reco either the RPM system or Proline like the other poster reco'd...they kick ass from all accounts and are much more responsive and more protective of your steering servo.

Peace
 
I went with al trans case and diff cases since i'm running a 21 kit. I was getting quite a bit of chassis flex. With the al trans case, it's pretty much nonexistant now. Same with the diffs. When your cranking 2hp at the diffs, it tends to twist and contort the plastic cases, which screws gear mesh and strips gears. I'd rather have the extra weight and drive, than lose 1/2lb and be rebuilding crap more often.

Mine is strictly bashing. I have a racetrack near me, but only one and they only like you running 1/8 buggies there. So, i spend all my time at construction sites or skate parks seeing how high i can fly.

Aluminum can get pricey and make a truck look like its for show, but when you put aluminum in certain places, it makes it stronger.

I personaly wouldn't run aluminum arms. I like having something give that's relativly cheap and easy to fix.

I think you posted the same time i did. I didn't see your response.

ACNCM bulks don't work well on the XTM chassis kit. They have the rear diff collar holes to high which in turn makes your rear center axle rub on the actual chassis or engine mount boltheads due to the fact that there is less of an angle.

The ones in the front were fine though. I run ACNCM bulks, but i had to mod the rear ones. I had to dremel the collar holes down about 6mm in order to get it to fit right. I emailed them and they said that they weren't designed for the 21 kits, just stock. But they were more than happy for me to ship them back with instructions on what i wanted. I didn't feel like shipping. So i dremeled.

The proline kit can be found here. I've bought a lot from these guys. Quick with processing an order. From order to receiving it is usually 4-5 days.
http://www.lightninghobby.com/store/viewitem.asp?idproduct=9408
 
Hey Olds.....ALways good to read ya bro...

I'm almost done aqquiring parts for my UltiMaxx. I just need to send the 8 Port Siro .18 into EBMods. I'm not expecting to have problems with Chassis flex with a HCR Ti chassis but we'll c. Sirio claims 1.9HP on that engine (7ports+the exhaust port of course). I wouldn't be suprised if it was putting at least 2.2 HP to the wheels after EBmods is done with it....it's gonna be a mean phucking BIG smallbore..lol. I finally got to drive a BIG Bore converted Maxx with the EBMod'd Picco .26 on the street for a little while. It was the fasest Truck I've ever driven other then the new Schumacher...period. The speed and power in general was almost to much for my experienced hands to handle..just plain sick. It had REALLY high gearing and would flip right over on it's lid if you hit the throttle full off the line..lol.

I am getting the UE Superlight alluminum diff cups as I've seen Maxx's with trashed ring and pinion from the diff cups "flexing". I'll get the Alluminum tranny case from HCR if I'm haivng problems like you.

EDIT ....The give points (fuses) on my Maxx will be the Stock bulkheads and the stock steering knuckles. If I was running RPM arms instead of metal I'd be running RC Solutions alluminum bulkheads and the great RPM knuckles with oversized bearings that I already have. I can't wait, I'm also gonna go ahead and get the rollcage from RC solutions....overkill? What's overkill.hehe.



Peace
 
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nice truck, not the absolute tightest pimpest truck i have ever seen but it aint the worse. good job bro, keep going on it

bryan
 
Man, you have more dough than i do laying around. Aren't a set of those diffs running $300?

Although, i am looking into UE's 9.5 buggy shock system. Found it for a pretty good price at http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/monmaxx.html

Racers Edge has a pretty good trans case. I bought mine at http://www.lightninghobby.com/store/index.asp before christmas for $80. I think the price is up around $90 now though.

Let us know how those UE diffs work out for you. For that kind of money, they should last you a long long time.
 
I have broken several a arms. Acnc sells me them for $7 each since I am very frequent buyer. As for the ultimax with the sirio, I have a sirio with a rb innovations supercharger. At mid range that thing was awesome. A little turbo lag off the line.

diffs were about $200 but they are bullet proof. I picked up the proline steering kit but no instructions! Any body got some?
 

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