temp , question

[sly2136]

Heh, the goal is to get the engine above 200-210. 180 is probably causing premature wear and going to make it run bad when things start heating up...

I don't want to affend anyone here, but I have run my engines like I stated for years and I have never lost one yet. I have race engines that are going on 5 years old now and the pinch is still like new and motors run strong with no issues at all. so peoples theories with temp and to cold can hurt your engines is a crock or crap. I know many pro drivers that run there motor under 200 degrees on warmer days. I have a 2.5r that is three years old now and it runs 180 to 190 consistantly and has never given me a problem. and you read alot of others post with people running 250 to 270 and there complaining with problems with the motor is doing this or that, I have never had them issues why because i run them right where they should be. I also read the glow plugs just like you do a spark plug by the color. and my plugs always read optimal a nice light grey color.

 

[jetmechG550]

Never heard of light grey as an optimal color for a plug. Proper plug burn should have a gold or bronze-ish hue to it. I beg to differ on your comment about running too cold, it's just as bad as running too hot. 250 is a target for me though juist a reference to start with, from there it's sight and sound.

 

[sly2136]

Never heard of light grey as an optimal color for a plug. Proper plug burn should have a gold or bronze-ish hue to it. I beg to differ on your comment about running too cold, it's just as bad as running too hot. 250 is a target for me though juist a reference to start with, from there it's sight and sound.

k here is a link to ron paris info on plug reading scroll down to how to read your glow plug and tell me what number 2 says. its says the exact same thing i stated earlier that the light grey color is optimal or as he puts it 95% optimal thats as good as you can get it and run dependable. the color you state is a fouling plug not an optimal setting. again i'm not the one here with engine problems i'm just trying to help a guy out. http://www.nitroreview.com/hintstips/ParisRacingEngineTuningTechTips.pdf

 

[jetmechG550]

k here is a link to ron paris info on plug reading scroll down to how to read your glow plug and tell me what number 2 says. its says the exact same thing i stated earlier that the light grey color is optimal or as he puts it 95% optimal thats as good as you can get it and run dependable. the color you state is a fouling plug not an optimal setting. again i'm not the one here with engine problems i'm just trying to help a guy out. http://www.nitroreview.com/hintstips/ParisRacingEngineTuningTechTips.pdf

Ok I'm not arguing either but I've seen many plugs and the color I described is not a fouled plug. Nor does this document describe what I said as fouled. I said a goldish/bronzish hue, never said wet or oily. I've never seen a plug turn grey. I've seen coils turn greyish/white but not a plug, nor the head button inside the engine. While your there though read the temps just above it. Also check back a few issues on either XRC or RCCA, maybe even RC Driver, they did a "How to Read a Glow Plug" complete with pictures. The optimal plug was what I described goldish/bronzish hue.

 

[sly2136]

I'm not arguing either just giving advice. if the way you tune is working for you thats great. but i personally don't know of anyone who has nitro engines that put as much fuel through them as I run through mine. and i have always run my engines the way i described and never have issue with plugs or engine wearing out prematurely. I have engines that i have run for so long i took out after running them for 6 years or better just because i was getting bored of them and i put them into a better truck for others to run. I average 10 cases of fuel in a 4 month season of racing if that is any indication of how much use they get.