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taking off the flywheel

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You need a piston locking tool, or take off the cooling head, then put some paper on top of the piston, then put the cooling head back on, then it'll be easier to remove cause the crank won't turn.
 
well it took everything out of the motor all thats left is the crankcase and the flywheel I'm buying a new crankcase beacause it has a bad chip
 
I hold the flywheel with a pair of pliers, and take off the clutch nut like that. Once you get the clutch nut off, if the flywheel doesn't come right off carefully pry it off with a flathead screwdriver, becareful not to hurt the front bearing tho.
 
ok i just got it off thanks that thing was on there good

ok heres another bright question how do i get these bearings out without ruining them
 
Me and a friend put all our strenth at trying to take a flywheel out with plyers.

Take a hammer, rubber heads work well.

Tap it and it will come off wth ease.
 
The pliers I use to hold the flywheel from spinning while I spin the clutch nut. I don't know how to take out the bearings tho...never done that.
 
AC48 said:
The pliers I use to hold the flywheel from spinning while I spin the clutch nut. I don't know how to take out the bearings tho...never done that.

To get the bearings and crank out stick them in a 350 degree oven for about 10 miniuts .
Were gloves and pull it out and you should beable to pull the crank and bearing out
 
Never use a hammer, even a rubber mallet. You run the risk of damaging the shaft and front bearing. Pliers will bend a flywheel if too much pressure is applied. Best bet is to use a gear puller. If you don't have that get a flat head screw driver and lightly twist as you move around the back fo the flywheel. If it takes too much pressure that means you over tightened the clutchnut.

You can use a piston locking tool but you also run the risk of putting a dimple in the top of the piston. Best bet is to enduce a hydrolock by removing the glowplug and putting aro in i and replacing the plug (best done with a burnt out plug so you don't ruin the coil). Turn the flywheel counter clockwise till it locks up. It shouldn't take too much effort to remove the clutchnot with your T-wrench. IF it's over tightened, you can ruin the threads. When you retighten it, cinch it down. You don't have to crank down till it won't turn anymore. The collet will take care of everything.
 
Diver..

Yes, the rubber hamer method can be risky.

If you want the best method to remove a flywheel, I suggest investing in a battery terminal puller.
 
Yes, that is the best method. Do we all use it? i can say that i don't. I should though. Shoulda, coulda, woulda
 
yup, and the store is just down the block ... too much like the right thing to do.

It's not a big deal for me. gentle hands and small movements get the fly wheel off for me in no time. I very rarely need to take off the flywheel.
 
if you want to hillbilly it, take a bolt that is smaller in dia than a glow plug, put the mill in a vise so the bolt is binding the piston and crank it off, make sure everything is clean so you dont get gunk in there.
 
Diver, I must disagree and agree w/ you on the piston locking tool. I've used mine on several engines (mostly small-blocks) w/o any problem whatsoever. And, I admit there is a very slight chance of you messing up your piston, and in the case that the piston is that soft in the first place, you'd be better off w/ a new engine.
I got my piston locking tool when I was still a n00b to the hobby, so didn't know any better, but after owning it, I'm glad I did. It has come in handy a whole lot, it's a nice, inexpensive little tool to have, and I have no regrets whatsoever.
But I will agree that it is possible of putting a dimple in your piston, but the likely hood of that happening is very small.
And, I do admit that there are better ways to remove the flywheel that don't put any strain on the engine, but I just wanted to say that a piston-locking tool isn't as bad as most think.
:2cents:
 
the piston locking tool can mess your conrod bushings up too....get a crankshaft tool that you open th eback plate and hold the shft intead of stressing your conrod.....the battery puller is probably the easiest but I have a gigantic puller set I used once....it's pretty funny to see this 18" puller on a 4" engine.....It's part of my "watch repair" set of tools.....you know like the 2" and up set of open/box wrenches everyone has.....good for small repair jobs
 
well i thought about it after i got everything out and looking at it and I'm thinking about a new engine I'm probally gonna go with an o.s. .12
 
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