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Tacon soar

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I recently bought a Tacon soar and a 3s battery. Everything was running fine at first. I've only ran it around 3 times and every time was great. I put in a 3s and something went wrong. The reverse was acting up. Usually, the reverse works as it should, but with the 3s it was weird. I pushed the reverse and it did nothing. I doubled tapped it, nothing. Then I just clicked it a lot and it worked but it instantly went to 50% reverse throttle. Afterwards, it slowly reverse on it's own. I have no idea what the problem is. When I first got it, it was making a clicking sound when i spun the wheels manually, but when i drove i didn't hear anything. Could it be esc programming? If anyone knows what the problem could be please help.
 
It was the 3 cell . so you put a 3 cell lipo in a 7.2volt rated 1/14 scale buggy and have problems now...try to recalibrate esc with a 6 cell nimh or 2 cell lipo not a 3 cell
 
You might have fried your ESC. I looked at the specs on that buggy and it didn't say anything about handling a 3S battery. Did you put your old battery back in to see if it worked? I don't want to throw salt in your wound, but for the money you spent on that buggy, you could have purchased a brand name hobby grade buggy.
 
It was the 3 cell . so you put a 3 cell lipo in a 7.2volt rated 1/14 scale buggy and have problems now...try to recalibrate esc with a 6 cell nimh or 2 cell lipo not a 3 cell
The car is 3s capable and I watched a video where a guy put an 11.1v 3s in the car and it ran fine. I put a 2s lipo in afterwards and it had the same problem. How do I go about recalibrating the esc?
 
I dont knowhow to calibrate your esc.. read your manual that should tell you.. I also be leave you killed your esc .. id call whoever you bought it from and try and get a new esc
 
You might have fried your ESC. I looked at the specs on that buggy and it didn't say anything about handling a 3S battery. Did you put your old battery back in to see if it worked? I don't want to throw salt in your wound, but for the money you spent on that buggy, you could have purchased a brand name hobby grade buggy.
Ecs is rated for 3s use.
From the brushless page Note: Optional, support 2 to 3 cells lipo batteries
From the brushed page Note: 2 to 3s lipo capable (changing jumper is required) - esc is set to nimh mode by default.


And not trying to be that guy but did you even look at the Tacon Soar? From your response I am guessing you did not. It is a rebrand of the LC Racing EMB-1 race buggy. It is a hobby grade race buggy that has been around for 8 years now. https://www.rctech.net/forum/micro-mini-scales/681066-lc-racing-emb-1h-official-thread.html
It is actually a very popular brand to get for minis, so popular in fact that WL Toys made 3 different knockoffs of it.
Just because it isn't a well known brand like Traxxas or Losi doesn't make it not a name brand. In fact if you look through that thread you will find that the Lc Racing was more durable than the Mini 8ight and the Mini E-Revo.

@Machoog7 did you buy the brushed or brushless model? The brushed model is very meh and the motor and esc that are included are just like any other brushed rtr on the planet basically useless. I have a lot of experience with these buggies so if you have any questions I can gladly answer them for you or browse through the thread over on rctech, a lot of helpful guys over there.
 
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Ecs is rated for 3s use.
From the brushless page Note: Optional, support 2 to 3 cells lipo batteries
From the brushed page Note: 2 to 3s lipo capable (changing jumper is required) - esc is set to nimh mode by default.


And not trying to be that guy but did you even look at the Tacon Soar? From your response I am guessing you did not. It is a rebrand of the LC Racing EMB-1 race buggy. It is a hobby grade race buggy that has been around for 8 years now. https://www.rctech.net/forum/micro-mini-scales/681066-lc-racing-emb-1h-official-thread.html
It is actually a very popular brand to get for minis, so popular in fact that WL Toys made 3 different knockoffs of it.
Just because it isn't a well known brand like Traxxas or Losi doesn't make it not a name brand. In fact if you look through that thread you will find that the Lc Racing was more durable than the Mini 8ight and the Mini E-Revo.

@Machoog7 did you buy the brushed or brushless model? The brushed model is very meh and the motor and esc that are included are just like any other brushed rtr on the planet basically useless. I have a lot of experience with these buggies so if you have any questions I can gladly answer them for you or browse through the thread over on rctech, a lot of helpful
 
I was originally looking at the emb t, but it wasn't on amazon. I look around and found tacon racing. It seemed pretty good for the price. I got the brushless tacon soar for only 180$. I looked it over and it is pretty much the same as the emb t. I ran the 3s on stock settings. I was kind of unsure about the esc programming. Do you have any tips for that? Should I try a new esc?
 
I was originally looking at the emb t, but it wasn't on amazon. I look around and found tacon racing. It seemed pretty good for the price. I got the brushless tacon soar for only 180$. I looked it over and it is pretty much the same as the emb t. I ran the 3s on stock settings. I was kind of unsure about the esc programming. Do you have any tips for that? Should I try a new esc?
Did you swap the jumper on the ESC from NIMH to LIPO? If not, and you ran it on a LIPO in the NIMH setting, you may have fried the ESC. Looking up the car, it shows it having a Hobby Wing S10B RTR ESC, and, although Hobby Wing are pretty good ESC's, they arent indestructible. Here is the manual for just the ESC: http://www.teamlcracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/LCRacing-Manual-ESC-hobbywing-v1.0.pdf odlly though, it doesn't show any info about jumper settings that i could find, just mostly how to program it.
 
Did you swap the jumper on the ESC from NIMH to LIPO? If not, and you ran it on a LIPO in the NIMH setting, you may have fried the ESC. Looking up the car, it shows it having a Hobby Wing S10B RTR ESC, and, although Hobby Wing are pretty good ESC's, they arent indestructible. Here is the manual for just the ESC: http://www.teamlcracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/LCRacing-Manual-ESC-hobbywing-v1.0.pdf odlly though, it doesn't show any info about jumper settings that i could find, just mostly how to program it.
I dont know about the jumper, I watched a video and the guy just plugged in the 3s and it ran fine. The only thing I found was the esc programming and I think that's mostly for preferences. It came with a reciever style plug that didn't connect to anything. It looped back into itself. Is that for programming or us that the jumper?
 
I dont know about the jumper, I watched a video and the guy just plugged in the 3s and it ran fine. The only thing I found was the esc programming and I think that's mostly for preferences. It came with a reciever style plug that didn't connect to anything. It looped back into itself. Is that for programming or us that the jumper?
That is for binding the receiver to the radio, if it ever needs it. The jumper looks like the part i circled in the pic, but might be in a different spot. Usually it will have a label that says NIMH and LIPO next to it.
 

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Did you swap the jumper on the ESC from NIMH to LIPO? If not, and you ran it on a LIPO in the NIMH setting, you may have fried the ESC. Looking up the car, it shows it having a Hobby Wing S10B RTR ESC, and, although Hobby Wing are pretty good ESC's, they arent indestructible. Here is the manual for just the ESC: http://www.teamlcracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/LCRacing-Manual-ESC-hobbywing-v1.0.pdf odlly though, it doesn't show any info about jumper settings that i could find, just mostly how to program it.
Only the brushed esc has the jumper.

@Machoog7 It does sound like the esc died. Instead of buying a new stock one just pick up a Hobbywing 16BL30 esc you can find them on eBay for about $20-$25. As @biggman100 mentioned Hobbywing makes nice escs.

Tacon and LC Racing are the same. Only differences are the stickers and the bodies on the Tacons are pvc instead of Lexan.
EMB-TGH = Tacon Bullwark. - long wheel base
EMB-1H = Tacon Soar. - short wheel base
EMB-MT = Tacon Valor. - short wheel base
EMB-SCL = Tacon Thriller. - long wheel base
EMB-DHT = Tacon Calvary. long wheel base
EMB-WRC = Tacon Ranger. long wheel base
EMB-TCH = Tacon Pursuer. The EMB-TCH is no longer available from LC Racing you can only get the Tacon Pursuer.
 
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Only the brushed esc has the jumper.

@Machoog7 It does sound like the esc died. Instead of buying a new stock one just pick up a Hobbywing 16BL30 esc you can find them on eBay for about $20-$25. As @biggman100 mentioned Hobbywing makes nice escs.

Tacon and LC Racing are the same. Only differences are the stickers and the bodies on the Tacons are pvc instead of Lexan.
EMB-TGH = Tacon Bullwark. - long wheel base
EMB-1H = Tacon Soar. - short wheel base
EMB-MT = Tacon Valor. - short wheel base
EMB-SCL = Tacon Thriller. - long wheel base
EMB-DHT = Tacon Calvary. long wheel base
EMB-WRC = Tacon Ranger. long wheel base
EMB-TCH = Tacon Pursuer. The EMB-TCH is no longer available from LC Racing you can only get the Tacon Pursuer.
Ok thank you, I'll look into a new esc. I appreciate the help.
 
Ok thank you, I'll look into a new esc. I appreciate the help.
Sorry I meant to mention before you get a new esc. Follow these steps just to see if it helps.
  • Connect the 2s or nimh battery, turn on your radio making sure that your trims are at zero or centered(the trim is adjusted buy the roller knobs along the steering wheel, make sure they are centered) and turn on the esc. Then with the throttle located in neutral position, press and hold the “SET” key for over 3 seconds, the red LED and green LED will flash simultaneously , which means each programmable item has be reset to its default value. Turn off the esc.​

  • Insert the bind plug into the BIND port of the receiver. Turn on the esc and the LED on the receiver should flash quickly, indicating the receiver is in bind mode. Press and hold the BIND button on the transmitter, then turn on the transmitter. The BIND LED of the transmitter should flash, indicating the transmitter is in binding mode. After binding is completed, the LED of transmitter and receiver should change to solid GREEN. Otherwise, repeat the above operation again. Once the transmitter and receiver are bound turn off the esc then turn off the transmitter. Remove the bind plug.​

  • With the transmitter on, press and hold the SET button on the esc. Turn on the esc. Release the SET button once the motor starts beeping or the LED on the esc starts flashing. With the throttle in the neutral position press the SET button, the motor should beep once confirming neutral has been set. Now pull full throttle and press the SET button again, the motor should beep twice confirming full throttle. Push the throttle to full brake and press the SET button, the motor will beep 3 times confirming that full brake has been set. Power off both the esc and the transmitter.

  • Now power on the transmitter and the car once again and see if the problem persists.
 
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