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Stripped Spur gear

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M

M@xximillion

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I stripped out my first spur gear today, I'm sure it won't be the first. What does everyone think of the robinson racing metal gear?
Or, should I just buy a couple plastic ones.
 
It works fine as long as you set the mesh right and the engine is sitting square to the trans. If your engine is not sitting square to the trans the spur will eat the clutch bell in short order. I've been running the megatech nylon gear for the past 4 month and its working well for me, you might want to check it out before you buy the RR gear.
 
Originally posted by Hunter
It works fine as long as you set the mesh right and the engine is sitting square to the trans. If your engine is not sitting square to the trans the spur will eat the clutch bell in short order. I've been running the megatech nylon gear for the past 4 month and its working well for me, you might want to check it out before you buy the RR gear.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am a little worrried about that,also I would rather strip out a spur than bell. As far as quality, how is the megatech compared to stock? I assume that nylon would be stronger in the cold than plastic.
 
I dont know how well it will hold up in the cold (does'nt get real cold here) but it is much stronger then the stock gear and lighter then the RR gear. The RR gear works fine as long as you take some extra time when setting the mesh to make sure the engine is sitting square. I only chewed up one clutch bell before I found out why it happend. If you do go with the RR gear get some small bearing to use insted of the friction pegs. The bearings holdup much better. And put a dab of heavy grease on the bearings so there is less wear and tear. When you switch to bearings you need to set the slipper nut a little tighter also.
 
AE's thrust bearring sets work well. The bigger ones of coarse. The grease also helps hold them in place while you put it all back together.

I decided against the metal spur itself, but, I use the metal double disc slipper kit by RR with the plastic spur ring. The spur rings by RR are thicker and they come in some wicked cool tooth sizes.

Good luck!
 
Well i use the RPM steel spur gear and have used the same one for about 10 months and no problems yet.


......................:bandit:
 
get the robinson racing one i have it i got tired of striping plastic i have had my metal one for about 4 weeks and i like it.
 
I've been running metal spurs for almost as long as I have owned my T-Maxx (about a year). I run the RRP slipper disk set up with a steel gear. I think Hunter has covered the problems with his statement on proper mesh. Properly set up you should be fine with metal spurs.
 
Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
Not to be a smartass, but a properly setup mesh also keeps the plastic ones good just the same ;)
Click to expand...

Finally! Thank you Christian.

I will never use a steel spur. First a metal to metal gear setup with the spur and clutchbell will wear both gears quicker, especially the clutchbell. Second seeing as how all the tranny gears are plastic by replacing the spur with a steel one you have now made the tranny gears the weak link. I would much rather replace a $3 spur than have to rebuild my tranny. The key is proper gear mesh. I have never stripped a spur in my T yet. Third is the weight. The RRP weighs a ton more than the plastic. I will continue to use plastic and just set the mesh correctly.
 
Hmmm...this is where I get to disagree with NCNitro. Yes, proper mesh will keep both metal and plastic gears in good shape, but running metal gears does not necessarily make the tranny the first thing to go. If you set your slipper clutch up properly, the clutch becomes the area of least resistance. Although it is true, that when a metal spur set-up gets out of mesh the damages can be pretty harsh...the key is proper maintenance and not allowing that to happen. Locktite in the proper places and good pre-bash/race checks of the engine mount and gear mesh, will minimize your chances for a catastrophic hit to your drive train.

As for metal gears weighing much more than plastic ones, this might be true of the solid metal gears, but the RRP set-up that I run is almost as light as the plastic gears I have seen. I have the double disk slipper set-up with lightened spur. It is a little heavier than plastic, but not by much (certainly not the "ton" more described above).

Either way...if you set up your rig properly and keep the mesh right, you should not burn up spur gears for a while. I've been on the same spur and clutch (both steel, both vented or lightened, and both in great condition) since I installed them nearly six months ago.
 
I like the extra weight of the metal gears, keeps the trans spinning longer for less lag time.

I use the same setup in my Maxx 1 as Sky does. If you don't mind spending the $$ is a good upgrade.
 
I think the next gear I will buy will be plastic, I think my biggest problem is running in extremely low temps. I am not going to run it in temps below 40 deg, I will see how that goes, however if I start going through them I will try a metal one. Thats what I love about the Maxx, you have so many options.
 
Here's RRP's site:

http://www.robinsonracing.com/

The image that they have on their homepage is the set-up I run. You can use either plastic or steel gear "rings" on this rig. It is an interchangeable system and the change is pretty quick to make (no real need to totally disassemble the engine area to change out your gear...just three small screws and the ring comes off.)
 
Sky, I was talking about the full metal gear weighing a ton more (not literally of course) I have seen the ring type but have not seen one in person. I do like the tunability of the ring type from what I have seen though, however I am still quite happy with my plastic one and will continue using them.

No matter what set up you use you must get the mesh correct or you will destroy something. And as Sky mentioned make sure you use locktite, and proper preventative maintenence can prevent seriuos damage.
 

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