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Still can't stop burning up Glow Plugs

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B

bubbagq

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Hello, this is just the first of many questions I have for you guys. I am new at this so hang in there with me while I figure it out. Back to the topic of my Revo 3.3. Broke in properly and ran great for about 5 tanks. I installed a performance muffler and one of those big air filters like on the platinum. Also changes out the toe rods and push rods turning the revo into a level 3 with the pushrods and level 3 rockers. After the mods I couldnt wait to crank it up and the glow plug was dead. So that was cool still the original. Replaced it and off she went. for a whole 5 minutes she reaised some hell. I have tried and tried to adjust this stupid thing and just can't get it. Ii also am completely stupid of how all this works but trying to figure it all out.

Now it says when you install the mod muff to reset your carb back to the factory settings. Which says to turn the hi id four full turns from the closed position. What is closed. Left all the way or right all the way. I have done things just like the manual says and I still continue to burn through plugs and ideal really hi. Dont know what is is about this revo, but having lots of problems from the time it was takin from the box. Will save the rest for later. I had a jato 3.3 for my first rc car and it has been through some hell and put back together more times than probably any car you have seen. and that sucker is still running strong as hell. I just need some help so I can figure out how to fix and ask some advice on some mods and then how to install some of those mods. It is fun I love it thanks guys.
Will check back soon.
 
When it says that a needle setting is from the 'closed' position. Screw it in, just like you were putting a screw in a piece of wood (clockwise turning). Be gentle and stop when you feel resistance or you can bend needle and that's no good. On the Revo factory settings are HSN (high-speed needle) 4 turns out from closed. LSN (low-speed needle) should be set flush with the area surrounding the screw head.

For the idle, set your throttle trim (on the transmitter) to '0'. Turn on the TX and RX, have the air filter off the engine and look inside the carb. Apply the brakes fully, then adjust the idle set screw until there is a 1mm - 2mm gap. After that, anytime you adjust your LSN, you will most likely have to tweek the idle screw as well.
 
How many times have you had to type that same thing MRCLEAN? you must have it saved somewhere on your computer to save typing time:D
Next comes the question were is the LSN? J/K go ahead with anymore questions you have as MRClean already has the answers saved a ready to post:D
 
When you add a better air filter and exhaust to a 3.3, the factory settings can actually be lean. i had to richen mine way up to get it back in tune after the same mods.
Did you have a glow plug element break off in the engine? If so it ruined the engine and it will keep killing plugs. Tear the head off and check so you do not keep wasting plugs.
 
Ok bro, that makes since now. I could not understand other than just doing it wrong, why I was burning plugs very quickly after going back to factory setting. It never felt right either.

If you are set at factory setting and your car has a very high idle and wont sit still. That is a sign that you are running lean?

So if factory is 4 turns from close, how many turns should I go having experienced this situation with your car.

Now this talk of a ruined engine is not sitting well with me. What the hell? The engine has had maybe 8 to 10 tanks of fuel run through it and thats all. The revo is brand new and has been running great until the I put those mods on. How common does this kind of thing happen, as far as a glow plug breaking off inside. COuld that be something you could hear make a differece. Have not heard anything out of the norm.

Second, and this is why I joined this sight. I am scared at the thought of taking the engine, trans, or anything with alot of little crap that I have no idea what it does in it. I ready to take it on, because I want to learn it all. But for that reason I joined you guys for advice. So when you day take the head off the motor and see. SEE WHAT? anything special I need to do or be aware of taking off the head? Once off what am I looking for or dont want to see. Is it hard to take off and put back on?

I am going to wait to hear back from you on how many turns rich you went and try that first.
 
Its gonne vbe differnent by where u live and how the temp and weather is, so your tuning is differnt form other peoples, best thing to do is get a temp gun an start from there.
 
If no temp gun is available you can do the water or even spit test... when your engine is all warmed up, you can put a drop of water (or spit) on the head. If it sizzles away right away it's too hot (lean) It should take about 3 - 5 seconds to evaporate a drop of water. This will not give you a precise temp but will tell you if your getting too hot. Like others said here your tuning depends on the weather and those new mods you got. So what works for me will not work for you.
 
Mine was 4 1/2 on the HSN and around flush on the LSN.
James is right, no two engines run the same especially in different climates.
Take the head off, it is easy. 5 allen bolts and it comes off. If you see any scratches/dings on the piston, it is shot. When you put the head back on tighten the bolts in a star pattern. Get them all snug then go back tighten them down good but don't overdo it.
BUT this is the first thing I think you should do.
You have a high idle speed condition. You need to richen the LSN and adjust the idle screw gap to 1 mm.
If the wheels continue to turn no matter what you do, the clutch spring is broken. You'll need to lok at your manual on how to replace that. It is easy on a Traxxas.
If you check out Traxxas's website there is a huge amount of info to be found that helped me. If all else fails, find someone with more experience close to you and let them have a look.
 
Wow, i'm impressed, this thread has been going now for a whole nine hours and is still on topic! Wow, you guys have really improved. Or is it because rolex hasn't been on for 9 hours?
 
cool guys, I am on my way to Jacksonville beach and am working on the car during the bus ride there. So it will be ready to test as soon as we arrive. Going tobtry the settings first and then the head of engine last. Will let you know what I find. Hopefully we will be on to the next topic about the tranny replacment Nd then the rockers and push rods. Thanks again!
 
zinkerone said:
How many times have you had to type that same thing MRCLEAN? you must have it saved somewhere on your computer to save typing time:D
Next comes the question were is the LSN? J/K go ahead with anymore questions you have as MRClean already has the answers saved a ready to post:D
Click to expand...

I think I'll do like Rolex and just keep a word document with the standard replies ready........LOL. I don't mind, I like providing whatever little bit of help I can, but yeah I need to keep that info a little more handy for next time. :D

Scrogg said:
When you add a better air filter and exhaust to a 3.3, the factory settings can actually be lean. i had to richen mine way up to get it back in tune after the same mods.
Click to expand...

That's a good call, I changed to a MotorSaver filter but still running stock pipe so the factory settings were still a tad rich. I noticed the biggest difference when I switched from Top Fuel to O'Donnels fuel (both 20%), I was waaayyy lean after the switch.
 
Made the adjustments you gave me today and got off to a good start. Through out the 3 tanks I continued to make adjustments like I have been instructed. Just when I thought I had made the final move and she was going to be back to normal, it died. Glow plug went out. I pulled it and looked at it very closely and besides a little brownish tent to the end of the plug, it still looked in good shape, like it was new. so I took a guess and turned it 1/4 turn to the rich and set the idle screw back to where it was before when it was running well. put a new plug and off she went right into a curb and broke the bottom front arm. so dont really know if my issue has been fixed or not. headed down to south florida in the morning and will find a hobby store somewhere in between.Sorry I dont have any better news than that, but your tips totally got me over the hump and perhaps tomorrow she may be fixed. you guys are great and very clear and helpful.
Thanks for that, I KNOW YOU HAVE TO GET TIRED OF THE SAME DUMB ASS QUESTIONS EVERYTIME A NEWBIE LIKE MYSELF COMES ALONG!
 
Buy the heavy duty version of the Traxxas glow plugs. They last longer.
 
or dont use traxxas plugs.. i burnt up one during the idle cycle of my 3.3 breakin
 
flandersander said:
Wow, i'm impressed, this thread has been going now for a whole nine hours and is still on topic! Wow, you guys have really improved. Or is it because rolex hasn't been on for 9 hours?
Click to expand...

Okay. Here I am. Jacksonville, huh? Lucky guy. I haven't been there in almost 20 years. Okay. I did what I had to do, now go get back on track...

Check out the info here.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832
Lots of tips and tricks to print and refer to in a hurry.
Keep us posted and we'll get you up and running.
 
Scrogg said:
Buy the heavy duty version of the Traxxas glow plugs. They last longer.
Click to expand...

+1, I've had good luck with the heavy duty Traxxas plugs in my 3.3. Consider buying RPM A-arms for it, they are considerably better than the stock arms........... and if you break an RPM arm, they will replace it for free. :D

bubbagq said:
Thanks for that, I KNOW YOU HAVE TO GET TIRED OF THE SAME DUMB ASS QUESTIONS EVERYTIME A NEWBIE LIKE MYSELF COMES ALONG!
Click to expand...

Nah, that's what the site is for. If it wasn't for new people coming along, we'd just make a train wreck out of every thread on this board.
 
i broke all 4 stock lowers the same weekend +1 on the rpm suggestion
 
MrClean said:
+1, I've had good luck with the heavy duty Traxxas plugs in my 3.3. Consider buying RPM A-arms for it, they are considerably better than the stock arms........... and if you break an RPM arm, they will replace it for free. :D



Nah, that's what the site is for. If it wasn't for new people coming along, we'd just make a train wreck out of every thread on this board.
Click to expand...

+1 on the RPM's But I don't like the following comment about train wrecks, Remember I work for railroad and don't wanna resemble that remark.
 

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