Hi all my steering servo 2075 traxxas (revo stock steering servo) died today only had it in my truck for half a gallon first one got wet and fried so replaced it with this one because it was waterproof, but kept this one dry. What is the is the expected out of stock servos? Should I upgrade to better servo or get another traxxas ? Thanks for the answers in advance Shawn
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Steering servo dead in half a gallon
- Thread starter hags
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Upgrade the servo to a high torque servo, nothing less than 90oz should be used in a MT IMHO (due to heavy brake usage). Change the linkage to close your throttle vs relying on the TRS to do it and get a different throttle return spring.
Traxxas revo TRS is way too stiff.
I can show you a photo of my linkage. The servo closes the throttle, the TRS does it's job, which is close the throttle if I loose power.
Traxxas revo TRS is way too stiff.
I can show you a photo of my linkage. The servo closes the throttle, the TRS does it's job, which is close the throttle if I loose power.
2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
I wanna see!! I have the tekno, but my trs is similar to the stock setup.
I use a futaba s3010 on throttle and s3305 steering. One of my s3305's just died I'm going to upgrade soon.
I use a futaba s3010 on throttle and s3305 steering. One of my s3305's just died I'm going to upgrade soon.
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Why is this ? I dont have much tension on the thottle return spring when neutrul are saying this because the thottle servo can't handle it's job either? Thanks
what do you guys think of hitec servo's LHS has them and price's didnt look to bad 40$cad for a 645mg
what do you guys think of hitec servo's LHS has them and price's didnt look to bad 40$cad for a 645mg
2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
645's are very good on steering. Metal gear, ball bearing output. I'm waiting for a pic from Olds, I wanna see how he does his throttle linkage. You don't wanna overpower the throttle, it needs to return to neutral if you lose power. I just don't know how this can be done without a stiff spring. My futaba s3010 only has 90 oz/in and it won't return under the spring pressure.
It might be just because I run a higher end servo (actually middle grade $70) that moves very easy with minimal spring. I have a very light spring on all three of my rigs (slayer/savage/aftershock) and when I shut off the power, it easily moves back. The jato on the other hand... I never put one on it. It runs mostly on faith anyway. 
The throttle linkage is covered up a bit from the stock roll bar, but you can see enough to see what I'm talking about:
Nothing special. Just setup the way my savage and aftershock are. The spring on the rod allows the servo to move when applying brake, but also gently holds the throttle closed. The spring you see connected to the pivot is the TRS. It's a fairly soft spring that also applies a bit of pressure when at idle, but is enough to move the throttle servo back home when power is disconnected.
It's a piece of threaded end piano wire you can get at your LHS and little du-bro captured ball end on the throttle pivot. I hate using z-bends... they get sloppy in a short time. I don't care for slop in my linkage. You'll notice the rod on the left of the slider on the servo is bent in a bit. This is to keep the body from rubbing on it when I hit stuff. The slide arcs in that direction anyway as the servo turns and slides fine. I proffer the wider slides as they move better on the wire and don't bind like a more narrow slide does after a while.
I use bearings in the throttle pivot vs the nylon bushings that are supplied. Moves nice and smooth and also, doesn't wear and cause slop.
No bind, no slop.
Also, the servos I use for t/b duties are hitec 985MG's. Strong, fast, metal geared and sealed with o-rings (especially on the output shaft). The sealed part is very key in my book since t/b servos almost always stand upright, they are the ones most susceptible to water damage. And 99.9% of the time, if a t/b servo gets water damage, it goes WOT on you and almost never goes to full brakes. Actually... for me, 100% of the time WOT... so, now I spend a bit more and get a good servo that lasts years. The one on my savage is probably 4 years old. It's been in 3 vehicles... maybe 4. When that happens, the TRS and FS are a mute point as neither do you any good. The only thing you can hope for is that you can steer it into something soft as it's screaming out of control. Also... in my experience, there's never a pile of hay for you to run into... I usually hit trees or a concrete wall... a curb... myself... I digress.
The throttle linkage is covered up a bit from the stock roll bar, but you can see enough to see what I'm talking about:
Nothing special. Just setup the way my savage and aftershock are. The spring on the rod allows the servo to move when applying brake, but also gently holds the throttle closed. The spring you see connected to the pivot is the TRS. It's a fairly soft spring that also applies a bit of pressure when at idle, but is enough to move the throttle servo back home when power is disconnected.
It's a piece of threaded end piano wire you can get at your LHS and little du-bro captured ball end on the throttle pivot. I hate using z-bends... they get sloppy in a short time. I don't care for slop in my linkage. You'll notice the rod on the left of the slider on the servo is bent in a bit. This is to keep the body from rubbing on it when I hit stuff. The slide arcs in that direction anyway as the servo turns and slides fine. I proffer the wider slides as they move better on the wire and don't bind like a more narrow slide does after a while.
I use bearings in the throttle pivot vs the nylon bushings that are supplied. Moves nice and smooth and also, doesn't wear and cause slop.
No bind, no slop.
Also, the servos I use for t/b duties are hitec 985MG's. Strong, fast, metal geared and sealed with o-rings (especially on the output shaft). The sealed part is very key in my book since t/b servos almost always stand upright, they are the ones most susceptible to water damage. And 99.9% of the time, if a t/b servo gets water damage, it goes WOT on you and almost never goes to full brakes. Actually... for me, 100% of the time WOT... so, now I spend a bit more and get a good servo that lasts years. The one on my savage is probably 4 years old. It's been in 3 vehicles... maybe 4. When that happens, the TRS and FS are a mute point as neither do you any good. The only thing you can hope for is that you can steer it into something soft as it's screaming out of control. Also... in my experience, there's never a pile of hay for you to run into... I usually hit trees or a concrete wall... a curb... myself... I digress.
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2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
That's very similar to how I have mine. The difference is in the servo, faster servos push back easier. I'll have to look into a faster servo that can do the job. I had a hitec 635 hb, it was very fast, but was underpowered and would simply just give out while braking. Somehow I knew you were going to subliminally tell me to get a good servo..
..thank you.
..thank you.