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Steel Spur comparison

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gnarkill

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  1. Bashing
how does this steel spur: http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/86806/

Compare with this spur: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXBK5&P=7

I am really getting tired of replacing plastic spurs due to melting. Before you tell me to mesh my spur and pinion right, They are correct.

Being that there is that there is a hub in the center oh Hpi's gear is that going to give that slipping action like a plastic gear would? I am not sure if the Robinson spur has a slipper pad in the back like the Hpi hub does.

Also, when a plastic gear strips, It doesn't break anything. What will the each metal gears do, or will both metal gears act the same.

Once again...
-Thanks
 
Not real familiar with those gears but I will take a guess the one you linked to in the hpi section looks like it give you the ability to use differnt size spurs while using the same slipper pad/disc. RRP made as similar slipper like that for the traxxas maxx. Where you used the same center piece and just changed the portion with the gears on it for different ratios.

The RRP one you linked to is just a hardened spur gear.


I will warn you that you are trading off in an expensive way. Instead of replaceing 4.00 plastic spurs you will be soon buying 16.00 hardened Clutch Bells instead. The steel spur unfortunaly isn't going to fix what ever the reason you are stripping the plastic spurs for. It is going to chew up clutch bells or pass the problem on down the drive line to something harder to replace. Just letting you know out of experience that's all. I went for the the 16.00 clutch bells every couple of weeks to a 4.00 plastic spur gear every couple of weeks instead. I found my problem with the the plastic spurs has been my slipper was to tight. Probably the same reason my Hardened CB were getting ripped to shreads. If I back of my slipper off a 1/4 turn I do fine. As soon as I tighten it down. Zing! There went my spur gear.

Metal to Metal. One of the gears will eventually give and strip out in not they may transfer the load on down the drive line to the next weakest point. Maybe a beveled pinon gear in the differential, the differential itself, or a gear in the tranny. There is alway a weakest point somewhere. Plastic spur is the easiest to change and I think maybe the cheapest also.

Your mesh between the spur and pinion is probably right. Can you spin the spur and cb freely? Any wobble on the input shaft (spur shat) for your transmission? How long does it take to strip the new plastic spur gear on yours?
 
Gee said:
Not real familiar with those gears but I will take a guess the one you linked to in the hpi section looks like it give you the ability to use differnt size spurs while using the same slipper pad/disc. RRP made as similar slipper like that for the traxxas maxx. Where you used the same center piece and just changed the portion with the gears on it for different ratios.

The RRP one you linked to is just a hardened spur gear.


I will warn you that you are trading off in an expensive way. Instead of replaceing 4.00 plastic spurs you will be soon buying 16.00 hardened Clutch Bells instead. The steel spur unfortunaly isn't going to fix what ever the reason you are stripping the plastic spurs for. It is going to chew up clutch bells or pass the problem on down the drive line to something harder to replace. Just letting you know out of experience that's all. I went for the the 16.00 clutch bells every couple of weeks to a 4.00 plastic spur gear every couple of weeks instead. I found my problem with the the plastic spurs has been my slipper was to tight. Probably the same reason my Hardened CB were getting ripped to shreads. If I back of my slipper off a 1/4 turn I do fine. As soon as I tighten it down. Zing! There went my spur gear.

Metal to Metal. One of the gears will eventually give and strip out in not they may transfer the load on down the drive line to the next weakest point. Maybe a beveled pinon gear in the differential, the differential itself, or a gear in the tranny. There is alway a weakest point somewhere. Plastic spur is the easiest to change and I think maybe the cheapest also.

Your mesh between the spur and pinion is probably right. Can you spin the spur and cb freely? Any wobble on the input shaft (spur shat) for your transmission? How long does it take to strip the new plastic spur gear on yours?
Click to expand...

When you mencioned that it was stripping, Sorry I didn't catch it when I wrote the thread but my gear is melting, not stripping. I believe the cause of this is my aluminum clutch shoes. My dad has been going to my LHS for 20+ years. I think I am going to take it to him and see what he says I should do. I cannot really say how long a spr will last me because I found that I had a cracked engine plate afew days prior to posting this thread. I made my own using 6061(same aluminum as FLM plate) so that should no longer a problem. I'll see how it is holding up while I go to my pit today.

-Thanks for the response
 
Last edited:
I use both of these, the HPI one lets you change the spur by buying diffrent gears and screwing them onto the purple aluminum hub, The tower hobbies one is just a plane steel spur, They will both function and preform the same. If you are not worried about looks and weight I would go with the one from tower hobbies.
 
Plastic is not fine all of a sudden, well after a tiny crack in my engine plate. At the pit I bashed like crazy, breaking the center diff bevel gear... Just my luck,:(
 
gnarkill said:
Plastic is not fine all of a sudden, well after a tiny crack in my engine plate. At the pit I bashed like crazy, breaking the center diff bevel gear... Just my luck,:(
Click to expand...

Turns out I broke my back diff. I hope to god that I broke a spider gear so I can epoxy it and have a makeshift spool. I'm a full time basher so I do not need the diff to make the wheels to spin at different rates when I turn. What do you guys think about that.
 

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