starting the engine for the first time

[the_rc_guy]

i just recently got an ultra comp lx (for a great $220) and -picked up some stronger servos for the difference in price. now it's brand new (it was a display unit that's why so cheap) and i can't start the engine... i did the main needle thing that the manual said. (3 and 1/2 turns from closed) and it'll spark up and turn but then i'll hear a clanking sound and it'll stop. and i'll also feel a tug on the pull start rope that goes with the clanking sound. (is that normal?) also the manual said that if it's too hard to pull then i should loosen the glow plug (which does make it easier) but i have noticed that i am getting some leakage at the top where you put in the glow plug! (is that normal?) i did the prime thing where you cover up the stinger and pull a few times. then i stuck on my glow driver and i pull and here some clinking sounds every few pulls or so. i just can't seem to keep my engine running so maybe you pros can help out a newb here. thanks

 

[HeartBreak]

The clinking/pullstart "sucking" back in is normal. It's a sign your engine is too rich, hitting compression with too much fuel, and "bouncing" backwards. I would recommend leaning it about 1/16 of a turn on the high needle. That should be enough to keep it running.

Now, as for the fuel leaking out around the plug... Does it have the copper shim? If not, you'll need to replace it with a new glowplug.

 

[the_rc_guy]

yah i got the copper thing i actually have 2 of them and man it takes some attention to get them lined up. so i let it cool down and it's actually starting to get goin pretty good! now i was just running it in my garage and the exhaust (stinger, right?) is shooting out fluid! not like a squirt gun but like a spray bottle or something. it's not much but it's definitely noticeable (prolly equivalent to about one squirt from say, a windex bottle) over about 2-3 minutes.


also. everytime i take out the glow plug do i have to re prime it? and i have forgot some after run stuff. how should i be "cleaning up" so it won't rust and it will last a long time?

btw is this the right section to post somethin like this

 

[AC48]

As far as the leakage, you may have loosened the plug a bit too much, although a tiny bit of fuel coming out is ok, just be sure to tighten it right up once it gets started. You shouldn't need two of the copper washers...


The reason it sprays so much is because its very rich, which is normal for breakin. Some oil should be coming out of the exhuast.

 

[HeartBreak]

A little "spittle" is normal. It's just an indicator that you're running rich. Which, during breakin, is what you want.

You will want to put a few drops of after run oil down the glow plug hole and cycle it over after each days' running. Then re-install the glowplug, and you're set.

Do that after clearing out the fuel (attach the glow starter and try to start the engine until the tank, lines, and engine are dry). The fuel is hydroscopic, which means it will suck the moisture right out of the air.

 

[the_rc_guy]

so do yalls servos move when you touch metal to the engine? when i'm taking my glowdriver out of it's place from the glow plug area i inevitably touch metal to the cooling fins thing and my servos go whack and sometimes it kills my engine. i double checked this by (with engine stopped) touching a screw driver and my allen wrench to this cooling head and my both my servos went whacko. is that normal?

man you guys are awesome 3 replies in one hour damn

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Yeah, that's normal (servos glitching with the glow driver). Wouldn't worry too much about it unless it happens when it's running. May want to give your antenna wire the once-over to make sure there are no cuts in the insulation.

 

[HeartBreak]

If your servo glitching is causing your engine to shut off, you may want to adjust the idle-stop screw (it's a small screw, directly below the air intake). screw that in so the engine will run at a fast idle (usually a half-millimeter gap when brakes are applied - the manual will cover the actual setting). if it bottoms out, you will need to adjust the low end needle (most likely lean it about 1/16th of a turn).

Otherwise, that is normal. Mine do that whenever I pull off the ignitor.

 

[the_rc_guy]

poo

so is there any tips or tricks to starting an engine for the first time? i mean i've got it to run before and i was starting to do that hot cycling thing and i made it through about 2 tanks but i'm getting blisters here from pulling so many times and it not starting up.

also when i do get it started up and i run it for about 5 min i see weird droplets of liquid all over...where is it coming from?

 

[Monkey Wrench]

If there is any way you can post some pictures of what you are seeing and what temp's you are getting, that'll help tremendously! It sounds to me that the reason it's not starting up is because it is too lean, perhaps on the LSN, and getting so hot the fuel boils away before it has a chance to get in the engine and combust.

Like Heartbreak mentioned, "nitro spittle" is normal, especially on break-in because the oil is coming out the exhaust.

If you see fuel leaking out the front, a crank bearing could be going out. If it is leaking at the head, the head may be loose. It's tough to say for certain without a bit more description or a picture, but those are places to look.

 

[wannarunem]

so is there any tips or tricks to starting an engine for the first time?

One thing i can say is to not treat the pull start on your buggy like your pulling your briggs and straton push mower!!! Do short quick pulls.

 

[SMaxxin]

Preheat the engine with a heat gun or blow dryer, this might help with starting.

 

[Plaidfish]

LOL...welcome to everyone's frustration when we started nitro.......sounds like you got alot of good tips to go on already.....here's one more...when you put the glow plug back in tip the car on it's side (front/back or side) and put it in that way...much easier to linethe copper seal and glow plug up with the hole......and the tip on the pullstarter using short pulls is way important.....never go to the end of the pull or you're just wearing the end of the recoil spring and the string out fast.....

 

[the_rc_guy]

yah you guys are really helping me out. the manual says, "Do not do this alone, get an experienced friend to help at first" ....well that friend is, you guessed it, YOU GUYS! yay!

so after fiddling around with tha t master needle thing i can start it within 3 pulls. i found that if i "lean it up" a bit it will start up and i just turn it back down when it's up and running. and it is just my luck that i learned about what a fail safe device is the hard way...

so my radio went out of range and bam! full throttle -->my heart stops --> buggy jumps a curb --> smack into a mail box post. i mean what are the chances of that. out of all the places it could have jumped a curb it jumped one right in front of a mail box!!! argh. i broke my front upper arm turn buckle piece as well as the front gear case, which on my buggy is attached to pretty much EVERYTHING. so i supported my LHS (this is for the guy who wants every1 to support LHS) and i ordered my parts. so i just waiting on parts now.

...and i just broke it in with ~12 tanks!
again, u guys r awesome
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