spur gear!!!! gear mesh i have had it!

[RC4LYFE]

ok i thought i got my mesh right i ran it all day and night last night...:cloud9: but this morning i was running it, and took a break and i found out that 3 or 4 teeth were missing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i know you should use a peice of paper, but thats wierd and i dunno is there any way i can be for sure it wont strip again

P.S. i only have 2 left!!, I NEED HELP i have gone threw 6 spur gears already!!!! :nono: :nono: :nono:

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

I use a piece of the plastic that R.C. parts come in.

Loosen your motor mount screws, just enough that you can move the motor around to set the mesh.

Feed a piece of the plastice between the clutchbell and the spur gear. Apply a medium amount of side pressure to the motor, tighten the screws and then remove the plastic. This should be a good mesh. Shouldnt be tight and shouldnt be overly loose.

Another thing to make 100% certain is that the bell and spur line up straight with eachother. If the motor is at an angle, you will rip teeth off your spur in no time.

After enough practice with the plastic between the two, you will ultimately be able to do it by feel.

Lastly, if your pitch is not matching between the spur and clutchbell, you will rip through spurs like water.

MAKE SURE they are made for eachother. Pitch that is.

 

[lykan]

PItch is very important. If I know what your running (think its an X-C) then you should be very aware locktite is needed.

If you adjust your CB and spur, make sure to tighten the motor mounts nice and snug. Make sure also, that you have locktited the ends.

If you don't, the chassis will flex during hard corners, or jumps. The motor mounts will slide just a tiny bit, and your spur is goinge that quick.

Also if you are running on gravel, you are going to have to put something in the open spot under the spur.

The X-C's spur is wide open to gravel and any other debris you might pick up. All it takes is one rock kicked up, and a spur is toast.

 

[RC4LYFE]

thanks guys i dunno i just hate buying spur gears, i dunno ill try what i can do thanks alot guys=:ball:

 

[SkyMaxx]

Spur gears are inexpensive compared to trannies, diffs, and other drivetrain parts. Christian and I share the same mind when it comes to gear mesh and our methods are almost identical.

Once you get the method down, setting gear mesh is not difficult. BUT even with the mesh just right, there are a number of things that can defeat the mesh and still cause you to rip up a spur gear. Just so you know, that is the way it is supposed to be. That inexpensive plastic gear is supposed to take the punishment so that more expensive parts do not.

 

[newnitrofan]

You guys really go through all that trouble of the piece of paper. I adjust with all the mounts loose than push the clutch bell snug with the spur and tighten down there. I've burnt one gear in the year that I have now been into Nitro RC

 

[SkyMaxx]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
You guys really go through all that trouble of the piece of paper. I adjust with all the mounts loose than push the clutch bell snug with the spur and tighten down there. I've burnt one gear in the year that I have now been into Nitro RC

You have been damn lucky. Gears like a little breathing room. When they are snug you tend to force wear on the gear's teeth. That wear tends to weaken them. I guess if you had something more powerful in that sissy truck of yours your spur gears would get torn up.
=devil

 

[olds97_lss]

Man, your just asking for a :flamer: !!!

Anyway, gears of all kinds need a little bit of slop in them like Sky said. It's called either gear mesh or gear lash. I think gear "lash" is bad gear "mesh".

Normally, I put my finger on the clutchbell to keep it from spinning and set the gear mesh so that when I rock the spur back and forth with my finger, I have about 1mm of play. This seems to work well for me. Doing the paper thing set it to tight for my tast. Whenever i did that, i would get gear howl.

 

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by SkyMaxx


I guess if you had something more powerful in that sissy truck of yours your spur gears would get torn up.
=devil

Hmmm Sissy truck???? RS4 3SS with a Fantom FR12 with a full gallon through it. That motor has a full 1.25HP@ 42,700 RPM(Hmmm sissy my ass)

Next Hpi Nitro MT stock Gearing, well for the most part 13T Bell52T Spur with Fantom FR15 w/ 1.35 HP @ 43300 RPM Stock gearing only offers 12T bell so maybe a little off.

Last HPI Savage 21. Running Ofna Picco26 with 2.7HP @ 37700 RPM with 15T - 20 T Bell and a 49T spur. Now I never said what I do is right however it hasn't failed me yet. I have over a gallon though both of the first engines and 5 tanks though the Picco. Sissy my ass. Maybe it's time for me to take a look at doing it properly but Silll none the less it hasn't failed yet.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Ultimately, when you get used to using the PLASTIC that parts ship in (pretty thick), you will begin to get the 'feel' that your mesh is set at. From there, you wont use it any more and end up doing it on feel alone.

 

[SkyMaxx]

Hook, line, and sinker. NNF, I was just poking some fun (sarcasm is so lost on the internet)

You really should be careful with the gear mesh. There are reasons for doing things the way they were designed to be done. Again, too snug and you are playing the lotto with your drive train. Yes, you may get lucky and the thing might last forever...but then again you might lose and lose big.

 

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by SkyMaxx
Hook, line, and sinker. NNF, I was just poking some fun (sarcasm is so lost on the internet)

Dude I have to admit all that stuck in my mind was the sissy truck, LOL I wasn't mad I was actually drunk when I posted so at that not a bad post. OK I have seen the error of my ways I will begin to check my mesh properly. Still have no clue how but god know's I have tons of used plastic parts bags layin around.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Next time just tell him to kiss yer ass!

lol

 

[RC4LYFE]

ok guys, uhmmm lol thanks ill try all that stuff i am greatfull thank you all.

:cloud9: + -3

 

[spanko123]

andrew i think sum how you get defective spur gears........(or else their waaaay to brittle) cuz the way how EVERY teeth snaps off every time is akward. mine just melt or kinda bend. but so far all youres have chipped completley so i dunno maybe xtm gears just sucks ok later

 

[SkyMaxx]

Originally posted by newnitrofan


Dude I have to admit all that stuck in my mind was the sissy truck, LOL I wasn't mad I was actually drunk when I posted so at that not a bad post. OK I have seen the error of my ways I will begin to check my mesh properly. Still have no clue how but god know's I have tons of used plastic parts bags layin around.

No problemo. I know you have some nice rides, and figured this one to be like shooting fish in a barrel. And what do you know...it was. =devil

Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
Next time just tell him to kiss yer ass!

lol

Kiss my ASS, Christian!

 

[Grinchvr6]

I'm not sure I understand the whole "paper" thing for replacing your spur gear. I have an rc10gt rtr, and all I did to replace the gear was to drop out the rear arm of the truck, and take off the old gear....slide on the new one and drove away. I have not had any problems with it since. Was this an "incorrect" method?

 

[Willthethrill]

I have a nitro rush, and i used to burn through spur geard like crazy. like i would tear every tooth off completely. i found the problem. i took the engine off, and looked at the chassis. it was tweaked and it was making the engine and the spur not line up however hard i try with the mesh. just my 2c