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some metal gears?

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TWOCANE

TWOCANE

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  1. Bashing
Happy Thanksgiving guys. Hey, this engine is hard on my tranny and spur also. Question can I change some gears to metal and still have some plastic in there so it can give a bit if it needs to? Also what gears? I think the tranny is jacked up cause the spur gear spins one way but not the other way without some pretty good restiance.

I know it been beat to death on the tranny but wondering?

I know it been beat to death on the tranny gearing but wondering about some plastic?
 
What t-maxx do you have? The one with the revo type spur or the older style with the pegs and larger spur?

If you have the older one, I'd suggest getting a 3.3 trans off ebay... and put an FOC in it. Make sure to get a 3.3 CB as well. That would be tougher than the old style trans.

If you do have a new style trans/spur, you could go RRP inside the trans and leave the spur as plastic. Robinson Racing makes gears for the entire trans for both the old and new I believe.
 
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I have the bigger gear, tranny. A 3.3 will fit o.k? will it take the pico .21 and goiing bigger next time I get an engine.
 
The bigger spur and pegs. I think I am going to try the steel spur new pegs and see what happens.
 
Have you had issues with the internal trans gears? In particular, the top two speed gear?

I'm not certain if the 3.3 trans will bolt right in... maybe someone else will chime in and help.

When I had a BB maxx (21 conversion, not drop-in engine), I went with a racers edge aluminum trans case, full RRP steel trans gears w/RRP steel FOC. I also used a RC Solutions steel 1M pitch spur so I could run a savage clutch and OFNA 1/8 scale CB. This eliminated the slipper peg setup and allowed me to use a 1/8 scale clutch.

At that time, RRP didn't offer the larger two speed gears in steel. They do now.

Although, as for the spur, traxxas does make an upgrade kit for the older 2.5 setup to be able to use their new slipper system. I'd go that route vs a steel spur.
 
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I just got the truck a few weeks ago from a guy who did the FOC and put in the motor, but the conversion is not finished. It has the older black tranny and said he had no problems before. I just want to build a tranny that will hold up to this little .21 picco p2 that will last a while. I just bash no racing or anything.
 
also how do you know if you have a hardened c/b or just the metal one?
 
will the 3.3 gray tranny bolt right in? Also can you swap a FOC from one tranny to another? It may be a dumb question but at least I will no. Thanks guys and happy new year!!!!
 
I doubt it on the FOC. You will more than likely need to get the FOC for the 3.3 tranny if you use it. The 3.3 maxx trans should bolt in, but I don't know about the axles. I do know the clutch bell will need to be changed as the pitch on the gear teeth are different from the 2.5 trans/spur.
 
what if I got a 2.5 tranny with metal gears and plastic reverse. I might be able to swap the FOC from my 2.5 to the other 2.5 but have the strength since it would be metal gears.
 
OK, so I am getting a 3.3 tranny new off ebay. So I have a picco .21 with a 2.5 tranny right now. What else will I need? will my spur work on the 3.3? Like stated before I am guessing I will need a cb? and shafts for sure . the 2.5 has short half shafts, and the 3.3 has longer ones.
 
ok so this is what i did.... i have a picco .21 and a 3.3 t-maxx tranny. i got a FOC for a REVO 3.3 since the output on the tranny is thicker than the 3.3 maxx. dont ask me why but it is.
I'm using the same 22t CB that i used with my old black tranny
stock 3.3 maxx 56 tooth spur gear and slipper set up (if you use revo spur you need a revo CB)
revo brake disk and pads
MIP CVDs for a revo 3.3 - needed it to mount to the larger tranny outputs.
my old CVD for the rear was the right length, but i had to do some custom work on the front shaft since the front output is longer on the revo than on the t-maxx. not by much but enough to cause binding issues. I'm sure there are other ways to modify a cvd, but this is what i did..... since i had a few setting around i didnt feel too bad about hacking them up.

i cut the CVD close to the CV part and left about half an inch. then i used a die and cut some threads onto the shaft. i threaded on a coupler nut (can pick up at any harware store), cut the other end of the shaft till is was about the length i needed(making sure to leave enough to thread into the other side). cut some threads into it and thread it in. then you can adjust it till its the length you need, and buzz a few tac welds on till you think itll hold. it may sound hokie, but it worked for me.
if you set it up where the coupler nut is too close to the diff then you will have binding issues, so the closer to the tranny the better.

dont know if it helps
 
so I was going to get some RDlogics cvd center D/S for a 3.3 off ebay with a brake holder. I dont know what a brake holder is but I guess I will find out. Maybe some one on herre can tell me. Also I was getting a FOC for a 3.3 .
 
65f1004x4 did you replace your cb when you changed trannys and linkage??
 
nope. I'm using the same cb, and the same throttle and brake linkages that i used with the old black tranny
 
well the spur that was on the old tranny was a 65t and the one i have now is a 56t. it still pulls wheelies and has a pretty wicked top speed. i imagine ill change the CB eventuallyto lower the ratio, but it does good as is
 
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Question: will a Revo spur go on the Maxx 3.3 tranny, and still be big enough to contact the CB? What I mean is that the slots for adjusting mesh are pretty small, and the revo spurs only have about 30 some teeth. Also, are Revo and TMaxx CB's the same pitch? And if not what teeth numbers do the Revo Bells come in?
 

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