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Smoking Spur help

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T

TalonMeth

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  1. Bashing
I purchased a used Savage X 4.6. Have had some minor issues with it but now i can't keep a Spur gear on without melting it. I have gone through 3 of them, the original one stripped out the teeth but the other 2 have all been around the bushing. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance...
 
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Sounds like the spur's too loose. Lock it down fully with blue lock tight then back it out 1/4 of a turn. When the spur gear isn't fully tightened it will cause the slipper clutch to constinly slip (duh) generating a ton of heat and friction from the center of the spur and melting it. It's a common problem when the slipper isn't set property.

U can upgrade to a HPI steel spur but u also need the HD vented clutch bell. PM me if u want a set.
 
Too tall of gearing for the tires/terrain/engine.

I kept melting the pads on my spurs when I ran 47/16 and revo 3.3 tires/wheels. I then went down to 49/16 and it seems to hold up now.

The engine can handle taller gearing, but the slipper can't. So, unless I change to a steel spur and hardened bell, 49/16 is as high as I can go without having problems.
 
Well got the RRP spur and bell ran for a half hour and started seeing sparks. Come to find out the drive shaft was bent. Live and learn. Now looking to replace the spur, bell and the tranny.
 
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That's the samething that happened to me when I used the HPI inter-changeable spur...it warped my trans-driveshaft #86089, did you flatten out the RRP stuff?
I did when the bearing went in my spur gear?
 
Yeah the bell is pretty flattened. The spur is not as bad, but I won't use it again.

Sides I'm not all that thrilled with the savage, I might just stick to my HPI Pulse and work on getting a Trophy truggy.
 
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I've been having huge problems with my savage doing the same things. How did you come to find the bent drive shaft? How would that affect the spur?
 
I started to notice my spur gear teeth becoming worn more on one side that's how I noticed I had a bent the transmission driveshaft

When the bearing went in my Robinson racing spur it was really visible almost all the spur gear teeth were flatened
 
Mine boiled down to the RRP spur gear was not really round. Had abit of an egg shape to it. I replaced the spur gear with a HPI steel spur and a vented HPI bell. Runs like a scalded a$$ ape now.
 
Awesome man glad u got everything worked out! That's exactly why I don't like Robinson products... The HPI steel vented bells and spurs are way better then anything else out there, lots of gearing combinations from wheelies kings to speed demonds and everyhing in between. There's really no other reasons not to use the HPI bells/spurs unless u need something custom of course. Any time the guy at ur local hobby shop sudgest that u buy a RRP clutch bell or spur gear, do ur self a huge solid and just don't LOL.
 
Mine also HPI hardened 19T CB and HPI steel spur gear 47T and am using it for almost a year and I got no problem even I bash it in off road very hard and on high speed.
 
Well after I got the spur /bell settled I was not real happy with how it drove. Seemed very sloppy, after a failed attempt to sell it. I decided I would keep trying to get it to drive more to my liking, I replaced the steering servo with an Align HSD61501T, and put 87056 Sport shocks (all 4 on the rear) all the LHS had. Now I'm loving how it runs. Ordered another set of shocks and looking for some better wheels/tires. Something not so fluffy than the stock ones.
 
I really like traxxas 17mm hub geodes with maxx 3.3 treads (kind of like the ones on teh summit but not as fluffy, tall or as soft.

I've always wanted a set of the 3.8 chevrons as the old 3.2" chevrons would last so frigging long and also were pretty forgiving on concrete/grass with a bit of slipping, which helps drivetrains last longer.

I cut the little notches out of the hub so I can use standard 17mm hubs from the e-savage on my revo. They don't really exist anymore... or are very hard to find. I don't know why traxxas went the route they did with their stupid hubs, but they get worn out from grinding on the threads of the shaft. Standard 17mm e-savage hex's work on revo axles and you just use HPI 17mm flanged nuts. Works great for me.
 
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