Sidewinder micro

[alpinehyperlite]

I am looking at the sidewinder micro setup for the RC18b i am buying from charles, do i have to buy the castle link setup to run my lipo? Or is there a way to engage the low voltage cutoff externally?

 

[marauder]

You can program the low voltage using the ESC setup and your transmitter, but it's much better to have the castle link, because you will be able to customize your exact voltage cutoff (I believe I'm running mine at 6.6v which is very safe for my pack). With the transmitter and manual update, you are limited to "3v/6v/9v, etc..." I believe. With castle link you can also customize brake and throttle curves, etc...I noticed a big difference in both my setups after running the castle link and setting a few options that I'm not aware of being available by manually updating with the transmitter.

Castle link plugs into your esc through a usb and adapter. It's really simple software and it is very powerful in what you can do to customize your ride.

Trust me, for the money you will be thankful you purchased it. I would never sell my castle link, just because it is so handy. I use it quite often.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Aight, first time messing with brushless. This will be interesting. I'm using some small lipo's that i use for my crawler at first, then maybe upgrading to the maxamps or somthing.


Its the 1320mah on this page:
http://www.thunderpowerrc.com/html/prolites.html

 

[sweetdiesel]

I concur with marauder. Counting flashes and beeps to program is a pain in the rear.

 

[marauder]

This is the pack I'm running, it fits under the stock battery strap, and has just a tiny space between it and the steering link, but does not rub. It's a 1500mah, and I get about an hour run time out of one pack with a 6800kv. Great pack, never had any problems with it though my motor does get hot quick on 85+ degree days which is something to caution in hotter climates.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMDN0&P=7

 

[Mattyfats420]

You can program the low voltage using the ESC setup and your transmitter, but it's much better to have the castle link, because you will be able to customize your exact voltage cutoff (I believe I'm running mine at 6.6v which is very safe for my pack). With the transmitter and manual update, you are limited to "3v/6v/9v, etc..." I believe. With castle link you can also customize brake and throttle curves, etc...I noticed a big difference in both my setups after running the castle link and setting a few options that I'm not aware of being available by manually updating with the transmitter.

Castle link plugs into your esc through a usb and adapter. It's really simple software and it is very powerful in what you can do to customize your ride.

Trust me, for the money you will be thankful you purchased it. I would never sell my castle link, just because it is so handy. I use it quite often.

I'm glad all my stuff came to good use, i also had the castle link and it was an amazing program that will allow you to customize your ESC to any spec you want from cutoffs, to throttle/ brake curves. and they have a racing and no racing application that was great.

i sold it to marauder so I'm sure he got more use out of it than i did. but it was great when i had it, and if i ever did get another CC set up i would definetly invest in another Castle link which is on the cheap side at my local Hobbytown USA for like $25-30 bucks.

A+ in my book for the castle link

 

[alpinehyperlite]

So if i am going to run a 5400kv Sidewinder Micro setup with the Thunder Power 1300mah batteries, how much runtime (appx) and speeds am i looking at?

 

[CharliesTheMan]

I don't think that 1320 you had on your crawler will work on this RC18B.

I think I might have an extra catcle link that I could sell you cheap.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Why wouldnt they?

 

[CharliesTheMan]

The battery tray on it isn't like it is on a Losi. It uses a stick pack with 6 cells side by side, and you have to push hard to squeeze it in. If you're pack is wider than a 2/3 A battery, then it isn't going to fit. That's the only open spot I see on the chassis because everything else is on the other side. You might could take the body off and mount the battery somehow, but I don't think it's going to work very well. I measured and got 30 mm wide on the stick pack that fits in quite snugly, and I'm guessing your pack is around 37 mm with the shrink wrap and stuff.

But I will be sending you a battery for it and it will haul ass with that battery and the sidewinder until you get a LiPo, which will probably be around $25 or so.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

eh, i could find a way. lol i thought you ment that there would be an electrical issue.