Shock Oil Weights

[Jeep]

I just finished lubing my differentials on my Hyper 7 PBS, and I am about to go through the shocks.
On a mostly flat track, with only a few small jumps and one jump that covers about 10 feet lateral distance and no more than 4 feet verticle distance, is there any recommendation for the shock oil weights I sould use?

Also, at what level should I fill them to?

Thanks

Jeep

 

[amrrashad]

Also, at what level should I fill them to?

Here's what I do:
1. You should pull the shafts to the very bottom of the shock body
2. Fill the shock up with oil leaving about 2-3mm from the shock's top
3. Hold the shock in a vertical position and start pumping the shock shaft without covering up the shock (be careful not to spill the oil out)
4. You should see some bubbles apearing all through the oil
5. Leave the shock in a vertical position until the oil clears out completely (no bubbles)
6. Top up the oil again to the very top of the shock body
7. Pump it a couple of times more to make sure there's no air in the shock body
8. Finally replace the shock cap and make sure some oil spills over while tightening the cap, this will ensure that no air is trapped into the shock body and affect your shock's performance
9. Repeat the steps for each shock

 

[robriguez]

Jeep, on shocks, its like bleeding the brake lines bro ... air=bad. Follow what Rashad said and you should be good. See if you can rig something up to keep the shocks in the upright position for an hour or so with the caps off to allow the air bubbles to rise to the top. Some people have made little vibrator rigs (no nasty thoughts) outta old cheep electric toothbrushes to get the bubbles to rise faster. For number 3 above, do that slowly.
--FYI: I'm using 55 in front and 60 in the rear. Just slightly softer in the front to handle the bumps better. If you have ALOT of bumps you may want to go a little lighter.

In most racing buggy setups these days the diffs are filled with oil just like the shocks, but much much heavier. (shocks = 50-60wt, diffs = 5000-10000-7000wt. There are even some new 100,000wt oils out there now to almost make it a posi diff) Are your diffs sealed (little rubber gasket all the way around?) if so, youd get much better performance by filling them with diff-oil then just greasing them up. (I know, a little late for this news, but figured I'd let y'know anyways)

 

[Jeep]

Thanks for the advice fellas.

On the diffs, when I took them down, they were dry except for a touch of grease.
I lubed them with diff lube 5k,7k,1k f,m,r and they had o-ring seals all teh way around, but I used some silicon sealer as well just to make sure. And some wheel bearing grease on the ring&pinions front and rear.

It's amazing how much torque difference the lube makes just rotating them by hand.

Thanks Again,

Jeep

Jeep, on shocks, its like bleeding the brake lines bro ... air=bad. Follow what Rashad said and you should be good. See if you can rig something up to keep the shocks in the upright position for an hour or so with the caps off to allow the air bubbles to rise to the top. Some people have made little vibrator rigs (no nasty thoughts) outta old cheep electric toothbrushes to get the bubbles to rise faster. For number 3 above, do that slowly.
--FYI: I'm using 55 in front and 60 in the rear. Just slightly softer in the front to handle the bumps better. If you have ALOT of bumps you may want to go a little lighter.

In most racing buggy setups these days the diffs are filled with oil just like the shocks, but much much heavier. (shocks = 50-60wt, diffs = 5000-10000-7000wt. There are even some new 100,000wt oils out there now to almost make it a posi diff) Are your diffs sealed (little rubber gasket all the way around?) if so, youd get much better performance by filling them with diff-oil then just greasing them up. (I know, a little late for this news, but figured I'd let y'know anyways)