-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
Shock Diaphragm Thingys
- Thread starter Kodama
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 8,360
- Reaction score
- 12
- Points
- 723
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
Absolutely necessary? Not completely, but the shock may not perform as expected. The diaphragm serves two purposes. One, it acts as a gasket sealing the shock cap and body when tightened down to keep the fluid in. Further it provides a mini-air shock for the piston at the top of its stroke and assists in the rebound of the cylinder.
So, do I recommend running without it? No. Does that mean you can't? No. You could use some other gasket type material to seal the cap to the cylinder and not worry about the air shock. Some have used plumbers teflon tape to great affect in this area.
So, do I recommend running without it? No. Does that mean you can't? No. You could use some other gasket type material to seal the cap to the cylinder and not worry about the air shock. Some have used plumbers teflon tape to great affect in this area.
Last edited:
- Messages
- 8,360
- Reaction score
- 12
- Points
- 723
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
If they are stock shocks, I recommend keeping it between 30 - 50 wt.
If they are all aluminum shocks, then you can go higher depending on your use. I ran 60wt silicone in my aluminum shocks pretty much the full time. I also ran some really stiff springs because I primarily flew and bashed the crap out of my T-Maxx.
If they are all aluminum shocks, then you can go higher depending on your use. I ran 60wt silicone in my aluminum shocks pretty much the full time. I also ran some really stiff springs because I primarily flew and bashed the crap out of my T-Maxx.
Honestly, I didn't notice much difference with or without the air bladder. I used teflon plumbers tape to seal the threads. I don't race or anything, just bash. Before I'd start beating on the truck, I'd push the truck up and down about 10 times to get the air mixed in with the oil so as not to have a dead spot at the top of the shock. Just make sure that when you fill it, you stop filling about 1mm from the top of the shock body.
What I did notice is that they were less prone to leaking on me. The little bladder would shift and fall into the shock body, then there wasn't a seal anymore, so it would leak all over and make a mess. That's when I took out all the bladders and I never really had a problem afterwords.
What I did notice is that they were less prone to leaking on me. The little bladder would shift and fall into the shock body, then there wasn't a seal anymore, so it would leak all over and make a mess. That's when I took out all the bladders and I never really had a problem afterwords.
