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Scratch build Nitro tethered race car, second try!

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I would use a laser, but that's because we have one at work. ;) 2mm is going to be tricky by hand.
LOL. I completely missed the 2mm part. Yeah, the bandsaw is going to be his best option :D
 
Maybe a little late, but I have a technique for lexan body shells that might apply, since those are often 2-3mm polycarbonate- I use a body reamer to perforate a line of holes (just pokes until it goes through), slightly on the "waste" side of the intended cut, then a hobby knife, tip pressed into the hole and pointing towards the next one,. The blade drives itself forward as you "plunge" it, so you can "stich" the holes together very easily, then clean up the edge that's left and get it to the final shape with little "whittling" cuts.

I tried to find pics but don't have any one hand.
 
Maybe a little late, but I have a technique for lexan body shells that might apply, since those are often 2-3mm polycarbonate- I use a body reamer to perforate a line of holes (just pokes until it goes through), slightly on the "waste" side of the intended cut, then a hobby knife, tip pressed into the hole and pointing towards the next one,. The blade drives itself forward as you "plunge" it, so you can "stich" the holes together very easily, then clean up the edge that's left and get it to the final shape with little "whittling" cuts.

I tried to find pics but don't have any one hand.
Thanks @tudordewolf yes this is a technique I use and which I probably push too far at times.
I’ll try the band saw then accept that the final shape will need sanding down to ‘the line’
 
I have paint plus lacquer

IMG_6044.webp
 
I do, the fine abrasive cutting wheels are very useful if a little fragile.
I should get myself a slitting saw for it.
They have abrasive wheels and cutting wheels. The cutting wheels have worked very well for me in the past. Slow and ateady. Watch to be sure the wheel isn't picking up the plastic you're cutting.
Then a drum sand for final finish.
I've done similar with an exacto blade in lexan like @tudordewolf described too.

The green looks nice!!! 🤩😎👍
 
They have abrasive wheels and cutting wheels. The cutting wheels have worked very well for me in the past. Slow and ateady. Watch to be sure the wheel isn't picking up the plastic you're cutting.
Then a drum sand for final finish.
I've done similar with an exacto blade in lexan like @tudordewolf described too.

The green looks nice!!! 🤩😎👍
Yup it’s definitely an effective solution, I cut and trimmed the GRP moulds off the original wood model using these discs, although I lost count how many I broke. I’m probably a bit heavy handed / impatient
 
Right, just come back from a freezing shed and the idea to bond the polycarbonate to hardboard worked a treat. I cut the sheet on my cheap band saw and even without fitting the fine blade it cut beautifully.

Thanks for the advice chaps.

A Quick soak in warm water released the ‘pritt-stick’ bond. Even the protective film has stayed attached. Photo not very exciting.

So do I heat it and bend with the film on or stripped off?

IMG_6046.webp
 
They make lexan bodies with the film on I believe. You.making aluminum brackets to mount it I assume? This is going to look so badass dude!

Yes I have made some aluminium tabs, I did consider riveting them on, but it might be safer to use small screws and nuts, I have some 6 or 8BA kicking around from a previous project.
 
Arrrgh! I have only one thing to say, Polycarbonate does not play nice, I now have an annoying mixture of wobbly shapes and tiny cracks at the edges.

I think I might go back to the metal one!
 
Arrrgh! I have only one thing to say, Polycarbonate does not play nice, I now have an annoying mixture of wobbly shapes and tiny cracks at the edges.

I think I might go back to the metal one!
Did you heat it up enough? It is really soft when they form it. Like it would stretch really easily.
 
It's kind of like vacuum forming, you have to get a hot even temp and then work quick. it's very difficult to do without the proper equipment.
Yes i think the issue is uniform heating, i have bent stuff like this before but only simple right angles, it deformed quite easily once up to temp, but I can see from the damage that some parts were probably too hot (causing warping) and some edges not hot enough (causing cracks) even though the main body bent easily

My issue is its a lot if work if you mess up in the bending process
 
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