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Savage XL - Break In

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H

hjcorrea

RC Newbie
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I just purchased the Savage XL and am in the process of breaking it in. I completed one tank and 1/2 of the second tank. I read online that this is the old school way of doing things. Should i be driving it in 2-3 minute intervals instead?

The only reason i stopped the 2nd tank is because my temp was up to 290 ish even up to 300. Now i can''t get it started again and my f!@#@ rotostart 2's battery keeps dying on me.

When starting up the truck should I have everything at Factory settings or should i start it lean? If lean...how lean? I cannot remember what the setting was out of the box. Any advise would be appreciate...really frustrating.
 
If it's really hard to start you might have to lean the low speed needle, but not much. Sounds like you've already leaned the hsn. The needle settings are in the manual.
 
You definitely don't want it hitting those temperatures. Get it running between 210-230, drive gingerly, and shut it off every 2-3 minutes. Make sure you set the piston to bottom dead center immediately after killing the engine.
 
Bdc??

:Metalhead Matt
I read the article about tuning and break in. I don't quite understand how you find BDC. Can somebody explain this in english : )

Also, is it common to burn out glo plugs when starting out?

Thanks again
 
when you turn the engine over by the flywheel you will feel it get loose. you can also take the glow plug out and watch the piston as you turn it over when it hits the bottom thats BDC. i mark the flywheel and chassis with a marker to be easier to get it.
 
So for the break in...what should the needles be set at?? Factory default??
 
Get on HPI's website they have a video of how to break in a Savage XL. Yes the needles should be set to factory for the first few tanks you may need to bump up the idle a little to keep it running.
 
cwal is right, but it is also important to get your engine's temp up. Sometimes factory settings are too rich to achieve the proper temps. You may have to lean it a little to get it up around 200-220.
 
So i've completed the break in and the truck is running great, however when it cools or when i first start it i have to heat it up with a hair dryer. Am I doing something wrong? I've even tried mid throttle during the start and it fails....but once i heat it...she fires right up.
 
seriously consider stopping your break-in process and taking the time to seal your engine.

The k5.9 is notorious for leaking.

I now seal all my nitro engines before they see a drop of fuel. You can check where BDC is by looking through the exhaust port, then mark it on your flywheel with some permanent marker.
 
Just so I understand this better....sealing the engine will result in improved cold starts??? Can somebody explain?
 
When an engine is fresh it helps to preheat them with a hairdryer. There is nothing wrong with it. I had to preheat my xtm buggy it was a pig to start.
 
Will i eventually be able to do cold starts without a hair dryer? I will not always have electricity with me. Have any others experienced this with the savage XL?
 
maybe. I was more concerned about your 300F temps. could be an air leak.

either way, I highly recomend that you seal the engine now before you're back on the forum with other tuning issues pertaining to this k5.9.

otherwise enjoy, the XL is a blast.

hjcorrea said:
Just so I understand this better....sealing the engine will result in improved cold starts??? Can somebody explain?
Click to expand...
 
hjcorrea said:
Just so I understand this better....sealing the engine will result in improved cold starts??? Can somebody explain?
Click to expand...

An engine must be sealed to run right, period. Any engine will be hard to start when it is new, but it will break in, becoming easier to start. It may take half a gallon of fuel or so before you notice it starting easier. But proper break-in is key to an engine running correctly over it's entire life span. Hitting 300 degrees during break-in is not good. Seal it, get it running right, and pre-heat it as long as it needs it. It'll loosen up for ya.
 
I'm beginning to think that sealing a nitro engine should be it's own sticky at the top of the Nitro section of the forum with an emphasis on EVERY engine being sealed before use. If not for the fact that it may resolved many tuning issues for beginners, but that it encourages beginners to explore their engina inside and out.

Engina Monologues, a book and onstage production soon to be authored by the playwright, JessF.
 
Ha ha!. Good point Jess. There is no harm in sealing any engine. Every engine problem isn't air leak related, but it sure does help in the diagnosis process if you know that baby's sealed.
 
I ripped off the engine and sealed it last night...only thing is i did not have the green stuff for the screws...everything else was sealed with the Permatex stuff.

Will leaving the screws unsealed be a problem? Is there an alternative to the green stuff?

Thanks
 

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