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Savage X Diff

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B

bbayton88

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Fort Drum NY
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I blew my rear diff out on my savage so I'm in the market for a new one. Wondering if anyone has one for sale. I might buy a few if you have them.
 
Post it up in the want add at the bottom of the page, don't worry I didn't find it for 2weeks..LOL....my dad say scrolling down is for sissies and sissies make me wanna puke no but seriously, you can get some on ebay look for this seller dollarhobbyz, but make sure you get the pinion gear to go with the ring gear on the diff. I think the only one HPI makes now are the 29T/9T diff gear kit/sets, the others have been discontinued!....hot racing make a helical cut gear set for the savage but I've never tried it, but I wanna
 
The X 29/9 sintered diffs are a step above the old style diffs that use to come with the savage. If u want something better u can upgrade to an XL/Flux machined 29t diff.

What exactly did u break? The pinion gear?

I have one that I bought and havent used yet. PM me.
 
EH23 said:
The X 29/9 sintered diffs
Click to expand...

The 29/9 are the machined XL/Flux diffs. The sintered diffs are 43/13 like the original parts.

Make sure you use alloy diff cups if you don't already have them and properly shim the gears at assembly.

Alexander_0_1 said:
..hot racing make a helical cut gear set for the savage but I've never tried it, but I wanna
Click to expand...

Interesting......I hadn't seen those. 26/8 gearing and the price isn't too bad,I may try those and see if they hold up. Thanks :thumbup:
 
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Heads up bud!

By the way bbayton88 make sure you get the same diff gear set for the front as well, just to avoid the front tires turning at a different rate than the back tires, or you'll be replacing trans gears as well!

---------- Post added at 1:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------

And put the diff back the same way! Very important! Or you'll end up with 3speed that has 3 reverse gears instead of 3 forward gears
 
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Racer 1966 said:
The 29/9 are the machined XL/Flux diffs. The sintered diffs are 43/13 like the original parts.

Make sure you use alloy diff cups if you don't already have them and properly shim the gears at assembly.



Interesting......I hadn't seen those. 26/8 gearing and the price isn't too bad,I may try those and see if they hold up. Thanks :thumbup:
Click to expand...


HPI stopped using the 43/13 ring and pinion in the 2010 X. They've discontinued it in favor for the 29/9 combo.

2011-2013 X's use the sintered 29/9 ring and pinion. 29t sintered ring gears are silver in color and have a rough blasted finish while 29t machined gears are black in color and have noticeable tooling marks from the machining process.

29t sintered
KGrHqZHJCEZueTi29BRrLgRYlw60_57_zps2b2487a1.gif


29t machined
T2eC16hygE9s7HLcLyBR5G9QGsw60_57_zps7b243b8b.gif


I have a 2011 X and swapped out the diffs for the XL/Flux units. Not necessary but a good upgrade none the less. And yes both sets of the machined and sintered diffs have the 29/9 ring and pinion...

OP ur best bet would be to call/email HPI about the situation and make a warranty claim, since ur truck is still new it's covered for 2 years. As u already know their customer support is second to none, there's no reason why they wouldn't be able to take care of this matter for u.
 
9t pinions look exactly same, I'm pretty sure HPI uses the sintering process for both. They're both black in color like the machined ring gear but don't have the same tooling marks, that's what I noticed when I pulled out the sintered set up to swap over to the XL/Flux diff and pinion. A lot ppl seem to sheer the teeth of the pinions also so I'm pretty convinced that all 9t pinion are sintered and also HPI dosen't have a specific part number for the 9t pinion gear either.

Sorry guy I dont have pix at the monement, I can snap some close ups for u in the morning tho. What do u need? 29t machined ring and 9t pinion?
 
Thanks guys, I think ill give HPI a call today and see what they say. If i buy the XL Diffs could I just swap them in for the front and rear?
 
If u buy XL/Flux diffs ur gonna have to buy the larger dog bones and axles as well. X diffs come with the 9mm diff cup wile the XL's have the 11mm cups. The dog bones are the same lenght but the ball ends on the bones are bigger so u need to appropriate cup to accept them. Pretty much u'll be converting to Flux or XL drive line which is really nice but kinda pricey. Honestly bro if I were u I'd just get a replacment sintered X diff. Much easier and a hell of alot less work to do.

---------- Post added at 7:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 7:11 AM ----------

Or u can just get the machined XL ring and pinion set and slap those on ur stock diffs assuming ur spider gears are still good.
 
Ok I took the diff apart today to see what part was messed and it was a bevel gear. It looks like its missing teeth on it. Does anyone have the part number for just a assembled diff set. I've found so many different numbers I just dont know which one to use. I saw tower hobbies has a few just not sure which.
 
just bc it isnt buy it now you can always contact the buyer and make him a offer thru a message i do it often and alot of the time they will make a deal i just recently bought two ofna rear buggy shocks for a 4 shock setup on a maxx that where listed for 20 dollars shipped and i got them for 15 shipped thru paypal. People will often sell off ebay to save a little cash.
 
Yea I sent a message. I wont have to replace both if only one is blown out right? I might just buy 2 just to have a spare
 
I upgraded mine in my X but now I'm wondering if I have sintered or machined. I didn't pay that close of attention. I didn't realize they made them in two versions. Figured the 29/9's were all the same.

I'm still running smaller X axles though with big cups on the diffs, small cups on the wheels. I haven't run it much more than a gallon and doesn't seem to be notching the cups on the diffs or anything.

What I just flat out do not understand is why HPI doesn't have a better center cup/axle setup. I don't have much more than a gallon through my my current parts and the notching on the brake hub is already really bad. I replaced the rear center with a new CVD and large steel hub and the hub is already worn to the point that catches. I even coat them with a wax based lube to keep dirt from sticking and wearing it down. I can't help my self from saying it again, my aftershock had easily 10 gallons on it. 6 of which were very hard LRP28 use with the exact same tires and whatnot I run on my savage. Original center axles, cups and diffs! ORIGINAL! 4 YEARS!!!! 10 GALLONS!!! ORIGINAL CENTER AXLES, CUPS AND DIFFS!!! The only driveline upgrade I did was I replaced their stock plastic diff cups with plastic cups that have metal inserts for the x pins. That was around gallon 4. I did also upgraded the two speed, but that was just to LST1/2 spec 2-speed hub, $25 on ebay around gallon 4 as well. Granted, it had other issues I had to overcome, but the driveline was not one of them.

Really frustrating.

I can go all season with my revo having a LRP28 in it with plastic sliders all around without issue, but my savage with a steel drive line barely makes it through a months worth of running before parts are so warn they cause damage.

I'll probably replace the brake hub again this weekend when my FLUX SUPER DUPER HD bones/outer cups show up... because I'm sure they won't wear out at all! lol

Starting to remember why I sold my savages... is just little crap like that that really bugs me to the point that I won't drive something and let it sit on a shelf for a year, then get rid of it. :(

At least I bit the bullet and got a steel spur this time around so I can run taller gearing (47/16) without melting the center out of the spur. Ran it balls to the wall for 2 hours last weekend in the park and at a dirt pile without nary a slip or issue from the spur. Was a great day for a change.


EDIT:
Did I just use the word nary? WTF?!?!
 
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