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savage x clutch!!

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matthewr

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hi,

anyone help me to figure out if my clutch is slipping? i think it may be as my clutch bell is getting extremely hot! and is taking a long time i think to change gear? also my spur gear seems to melt all the time, i have put 3 on so far :/ and have set the engine up all the time, and done the paper trick, so i dont think its anything i have done, and is starting to wind me up, :angry: so any help will be much appreciated, thanks :)
 
You may have answered your own question.
The clutch bell being overly hot sounds to me like it's slipping.
Have you taken the clutch bell off and looked inside it?
What do the shoes look like?
I'll bet they are scored/shot.

A slipping clutch could also be the reason as to why it's slow to into 2nd.
A slipping spur gear could also be the reason, but since you've been changing these and the clutch bell is hot I'm guessing it's your clutch.
A third option is a misadjusted shift point, but look to the clutch.
 
hi,

thanks for the info i will be checking the clutch first thing tomorrow, when putting a clutch back in, would you put a little bit of oil round the springs or just leave it as it is? also the savage x i got told come standard with a steel spur gear? i don't know if this is true or not, but i was wondering if you could tell me, if i got a steel spur gear would this course any damage to anything else? i.e the thing to go wrong is the weakest thin normally, as my spur gear keeps going it is obviously the weakest the weakest thing, so if i put a steel spur gear in, its not going to give way as much, but could result as things going like the gearbox or clutch bell? am i right in saying this? cheers
 
You don't want any oil in the clutch/clutch bell assembly. Oil or grease would work against the clutch shoes catching/gripping the clutch bell.
Get new clutch shoes/springs and clean/scour the inside of the clutch bell

Steel or plastic spur gear - kind of personal choice.
I run them both and am not sure if there's a magic formula.
Maybe someone else can chime in - although for a large spur gear like a 52 I tend to use plastic and for a smaller spur gear like a 46 or 48 I use steel.

If you go with a steel spur gear, I would recommend getting a hardened clutch bell otherwise the spur gear has the tendency to rapidly wear the clutch bell gears down.
 
What gearing are you running? What engine? What tires?

Over gearing a rig for what it's got will cause a clutch to slip excessively regardless what you do.

When doing CB/shoe maintenance, I rough up the inside of the bell and the face of the shoes with sandpaper then I clean both really well with DA to get any oil film off.
 
Replace the slipper clutch, spur and use a new locknut on the assembly. Tighten down to the point the spring's coils compress and stop there. The locknuts love to back off while driving when the nyloc inside the nut wears. Red threadlock is a good idea also, give it a few hours to dry.
Put an aluminum clutch on it, HPI's teflon crap clutch is very prone to overheating, especially in grass.
 
thanks for all the tips, does the alley clutch keep it cooler? make it last longer? or what and also I'm going to sound a bit of a moron, but how do i know what gearing I'm running :/
olds97_lss do you mean if its like a single speed, 2 speed or 3 speed gearbox? if so i have got a 2 speed :) thanks
 
matthewr said:
thanks for all the tips, does the alley clutch keep it cooler? make it last longer? or what and also I'm going to sound a bit of a moron, but how do i know what gearing I'm running :/
olds97_lss do you mean if its like a single speed, 2 speed or 3 speed gearbox? if so i have got a 2 speed :) thanks
Click to expand...

What he meant by gearing is the number of teeth on the cluchbell and spur
 
oh sorry, i am new to all this, i was running 49t spur with a 18 teeth clutch bell, but now i am running 49t with a 15 tooth clutch bell, what would be the best gearing then??
 
Spur gear melting

The gearing is the way I would go 47/15 or 47/16 . But this just happened to me .The brake was sticking and was holding my truck from moving when throttle was applied. Make sure your brake is not set wrong.

Ed
S&E Raceway
 
Changing from an 18t clutch bell to a 15t clutch bell will impact your transmissions shift point or points (depending whether you've got a two or three speed).
Since you're going from a larger to a smaller clutch bell, you'll need to loosen the shift point grub (the one that is off center).
I'd do this by 1/8 turn increments and then run it to see how much the shift point has changed. To be accurate, the the engine needs to get up to operating temperature.
If you have a two speed, you can run and check and adjust - run and check and adjust.
If you have a three speed, you have to pull the transmission to alter 2nd (the middle gear).
 
16/47 to 17/47 is ideal for a Savage with a decent engine. Yes the alloy clutch shoes run 10X cooler, IF you keep the grease off the shoes.
 
For me, running anything faster than 15/49 caused slipper issues running an LRP28S3 and stock savage tires. Even dropping to 15/47 caused it within half a tank.
 
olds97_lss said:
For me, running anything faster than 15/49 caused slipper issues running an LRP28S3 and stock savage tires. Even dropping to 15/47 caused it within half a tank.
Click to expand...

Well, then this doesn't make sense to me then, prolly cause its late and i'm dumb..... but i just threw in a 14/52 combo, and once i got my shiftpoint where i like it, DAMN does it go like stink now!

But if this were true should it not be slower?



Just for reference:
Savage X4.6rtr converted to XL
Steel 52t Spur & 14t vented hardened clutch w/dual slipper setup
GOLIATH 178x97 tires
hpi polished pipe
rpm a-arms & skid plate
 
Last edited:
the-enforcer said:
Well, then this doesn't make sense to me then, prolly cause its late and i'm dumb..... but i just threw in a 14/52 combo, and once i got my shiftpoint where i like it, DAMN does it go like stink now!

But if this were true should it not be slower?
Click to expand...

Probably just means that your engine wasn't able to pull the taller gearing, so with lower gearing, the engine is able to reach higher RPM's to push the truck to a faster top speed.
 
Yep, tire diameter and weight are also a factor on gearing. I always ran lightweight tires to get all the power I could to the ground. Lighter tires are easier on the entire drivetrain as well.
 
Scrogg said:
Yep, tire diameter and weight are also a factor on gearing. I always ran lightweight tires to get all the power I could to the ground. Lighter tires are easier on the entire drivetrain as well.
Click to expand...

You are right Scrogg in that lighter tires are easier on the drive train and they do factor into gearing. The flip side to that is if you run lighter compound tires then you are replacing them that much more frequently. I run a medium compound tire on all my trucks for that reason. I don't have the money to replace them often and I run on streets and asphalt a lot. I guess the choice is yours depending on your running surface and your wallet diameter.



:Washington_National:redbuggy:
 

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