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Savage won't move

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Y

YJ Cruiser

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  1. Bashing
I was running my new savage after the break in and got the carb set to where this thing screams. This is my first Nitro.

Just got it running good and started to really have some fun when it stopped moving. Motor would just rev up. After some inspection I have a stripped the Super Gear. At least that is what the manual is saying the gear is called. It is the plastic gear that runs against the metal clutch bell. (Sorry if this doesn't make sense).

My question is what parts do I need to replace to get it running again and what do I need to do to keep it from happening again? Do I need anything but the gear and what is the correct name for it?
 
Spur gear is correct. That should be all you need to buy to get it going again. To make it last you have to get the gears meshed properly and make sure the bolts are tight and stay tight.
 
Assuming that you are running on grass there is a lot of stress on your spur gear because grass is generally 3 inches tall or so and the tires are about 5 inches tall (Don't know exactly off hand). It is stripped, not melted, correct?
 
There seems to ba a lot of guys that have problems with the spug gear stripping out so if it keeps happening you might want to try an aluminum spur gear.
 
durwank said:
There seems to ba a lot of guys that have problems with the spug gear stripping out so if it keeps happening you might want to try an aluminum spur gear.
Click to expand...

Spur gears made out of metal are all steel, unless you are referring to Hpi's steel spur gear with the hub in the center but that is not the solution for stripping spurs. If you are stripping/melting spurs there is always something abnormal causing it. Most likely, it is a bad mesh between the gears, cracked engine plate, or your clutch bell is tilted into or away from the spur. If you do decide to get a steel spur and there is a sudden load on the drivetrain you aren't going to strip your spur, you are going to break a differential, break a transmission gear or best case scenario strip your clutch bell. That's another thing though switching to a metal spur gear requires you to use a hardened steel clutch bell. :OT:
 
Which savage is it? You say it's new. IMO, a lot of manufacturers gear their rigs too tall for speed purposes which puts extra stress/heat on the clutch and spur/slipper. If you can handle it being a bit slower for top speed, you may want to pick up a spur that is a tooth or two larger than what you have. Gives you more torque, but less top end.

I found that that helped on my savage when I installed a new engine. By the time the engine hit tank 10 of break-in, I had to have the slipper almost locked down and even then, after about half a tank of running in short grass, the slipper started slipping. Once it starts, it doesn't stop. This causes it to overheat, warp the gear, then either burn the middle out of it or shear the teeth off of it.

I went up 2 teeth on the spur and the problem pretty much went away.
 
I found a new spur gear at a hoppy shop that was only 100 miles away. I kind of live in the middle of no where. Anyway once I got there he didn't have the gear he thought. It ended up being a 49 tooth gear instead of the stock 47. Sounds to me like that might be a better way to go anyway. Top end isn't a priority. I like to climb sand hills and do a little jumping. Torque is better for that stuff.

Thanks for the help.
 
I would normally buy online, but I wanted to run my savage this weekend so I needed the part pretty quick. It was a nice drive. Of course after running 2 tanks of fuel through it the new gear is showing wear on only 3 teeth. I think I have a bent shaft and I lost rear wheel drive. I haven't had time to tear into it yet but I will get it figured out.
 

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