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savage wont idle?

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G

grum gti

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hi there, my Savage just wont idle. without the wheels turning, I'm running a HPI savage 25 th engine say .25 on the side, and I'm using optiful 25% fuel.

I've adjusted the idle need all the way out but yet the wheels still spin the throttle trim is turned all the way down too.

i cannot figure this out lol, is it somthing to do with either the HSN or the LSN?

any help would be appriciated as i just want to have a go lol, had it over a week and not used it yet lol :(

it was 2nd hand so i supposed it dosnt really help as i dont know what settings the previous owner had made to the needles.

EDIT: ok I've done some digginng around and stumbled acros this thread.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71481


seems to be the same kinda problem I'm having so I'm gona try this and hope it helps.

i shal report back soon

EDIT 2:

ok tried that 1mm gap and its stil wheels are turning ? the gap dosnt move when i apply full brake it remains the same,

the only thing i havnt messed with is the LSN,

it seems to spit alot of unburnt fuel out the exsausht also so I'm thinking it may be too rich?

What are the factory settings for LSN, HSN and the idle screw and ill start from scratch. as the previous owner must of messed with them.
 
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ok i had this problem on my 4tec but could be diff.
1st check you clutch out to make sure the clutch spring is not broke and just look over the clutch clean it and put it back together.
2 while you have the engine off seal it that could be your prob to.
let me know what u find out
 
thanks for that gona check that out later,

I'm fairuly new to the nitro scence so hence the lack of knowlage,

just a question thought regarding the fuel %,

I've found the manual for my engine as it seems to be a Nitro Star S-25

the manual says it runs of %20 fuel but the lad who i got it off said he was using 25% so i went and bought that, now could that be my problem that I'm using a fuel thats to much for the engine?

i honest dont know I'm just trying to figure things out lol,

but I'm definatley going to be sealing the engine and setting the carb back to factory settings now i know them.

and my plan is to use the 25% fuel as thats what ve bought would this work or would it be advisable to buy some 20%?
 
ok tried that 1mm gap and its stil wheels are turning ? the gap dosnt move when i apply full brake it remains the same,
Click to expand...

Time to open the clutch bell. Don't adjust any needles yet. If the shoes are dragging because they're broken or the springs have gone, messing with the carb won't help.
You'll also need to check the CB bearing to make sure it's not seized.
 
ok I've got the engine out and the clutch bell off,

the clutch springs seems to be okay not snapped or anything, and the clutch itself looks to be ok, the bearings on either side of the bell housing are moving freely, in all honesty it all looks pritty new to me, Come to think of it I'm sure he said it had a new engine and needed running in :/.

saying this i have no clue as to what to look for,

is their anything specific i should be looking out for apart from the obvious wear and stuff?

ill add a couple of pics hang on a tick. (click them to enlarge)


 
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and i dont think that clutch looks ok i can't put my finger on it but it just seems funny.
 
Looks to me like the wrong flywheel and clutch setup. That looks like a Traxxas flywheel and clutch. You need the three shoe clutch and flywheel.
 
okay so it has the wrong flywheel and clutch setup?

could anyone point me in the right direction to get the one i need?

cheers

would this be the right one?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INTEGY-HA...trolled_JN&hash=item336c35349a#ht_3095wt_1090

from reading the online manual i think that should work as it looks like what it doe in the manual just want some conformation before i actually order it :)

also yeh the cluthch springs did look a little streched n warped in places, but if its the wrong fly wheel and clutch then it wouldnt make a diffreence i dont think lol, i could be wrong on that though.

but I've order the clutch bits now so hopefully should have that done by weekend.
 
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ok so I've been searching around the net 2day, and some places sell that exsact clutch setup for a hpi savage.

so is it the wrong clutch and fly wheel or not?

I've orderd the ones with the 3 shoes so will be using that when it comes, I'm just curious as to if the clutch on is acutally right or wrong ?
 
Hard to tell by those pics, but I'm starting to wonder if the shoes are backwards. The pivot pin for each shoe should be first in the direction of travel. The free swing out end should be trailing.
 
well the clutch arrived this morning, would i be wise to get some1 to fit it? as i dont have a flywheel puller of the shoes tool? , is there anyway to improvise without damaging anything?


cheers
 
After you remove the flywheel nut place a flatblade screwdirver between the flywheel and engine block and pry it off. Then place the the blade in the slot on the brass collar and give a little twist. This will open the collar and let it slide off the end of the crankshaft. If the new flywheel came with a new collar use it if not you can reuse the old one. Don't be alarmed if the flywheel won't slide all the way back on. It will pop back in place when you tighten up the flywheel nut. Remove the engine backplate to expose the connecting rod you will have to have to scotch up the crank and connecting rod with someting. I use the rubber caoted handle of a pair of pliers. Once you get the cranksahft where it won't spin around when your trying to tighten the flywheel nut. Tighten the flywheel nut, make sure it's really tight use some blue Loctite if you have it. Then follow the instructions that should have came ith your new clutch.
 
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