• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

Savage wheels

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
T

TRDStreetFighter

RCTalk Addict
Messages
547
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
Couple things... okay now since I have so much torque cause I have the WASP 26 in my wheels stripped so I ordered Aluminum ones.. what you think about aluminum wheels... 2nd when I am taken off the wheels i believe it's the left side that un-doing the nut is oppisite from the right side.. does that sound right? I though it was weird but I can't understand why they would do that?
 
Aluminum rims are a lot of extra weight, but you will have a very hard time stripping them out anytime soon.

You could go with a set of stock T-Maxx rims, ProLine rims, or RPM rims and get lighter rims with decent strength. I have yet to strip anyone of those brand rims on my Savage.

As for the removal of the nuts in opposite directions, that is an HPI thing. I knew the logic behind it once, but I have proven it to be flawed on numerous occasions when my drive axles spun themselves out of the nuts. Solved that problem with a little loctite...now counterrotating or not...makes no difference.
 
If ya want always tight nuts, take the axles out and swap sides. For some reason, the way HPI says to put them in will make them come loose. If ya flip them, they will tend to tighten themselves.
 
LOL...he he he heh he heh...you said "tight nuts"...heh he heh
 
Yeah, I did.

If ya core out the rims, and the nuts get hot enough to oxidize, you'll end up with blue nuts. Not the same as balls, since they're nut bearings, but close enough.
 
I've been using the Maximizer beadlock rims now for about two months (can't remeber but awhile). Anyway, so far they are working really well. I had one bead pull out a little bit but I found I didn't have several of the screws tight enough. I'm using stock HPI Savage tires that were removed from the factory rims and at least one has a small chunk out of the bead so that may account for one that will spin a bit if you really torque the thing on high traction surfaces. I like the beadlocks and really like the "no glue". I have seen no problem with the hex hub at all to date. These would be really cool in aluminum but they are too exspensive for my wallet and the extra weight might be a disdavantage also.
 
Originally posted by LarryA
I've been using the Maximizer beadlock rims now for about two months (can't remeber but awhile). Anyway, so far they are working really well. I had one bead pull out a little bit but I found I didn't have several of the screws tight enough. I'm using stock HPI Savage tires that were removed from the factory rims and at least one has a small chunk out of the bead so that may account for one that will spin a bit if you really torque the thing on high traction surfaces. I like the beadlocks and really like the "no glue". I have seen no problem with the hex hub at all to date. These would be really cool in aluminum but they are too exspensive for my wallet and the extra weight might be a disdavantage also.
Click to expand...

Did you notice a really big weight difference using the beadlocks? I know that Imbroken had a set of those and did notice a difference in speed with these on. They certainly look cool and the fact that you can swap out tires anytime without boiling wheels to get the tires off is very cool. He was running a O.S. 15 at the time....but now is building a converted Maxx.

sLY
 
They are a little heavier but not by much. On a .15 though it may make a big difference. I run them on a .26 Savage and no problems whatsoever.

HPI claims their new improved rims are out with the latest kit. Does that mean we can all send our defective ones back? Or is that just their hexes they fixed?
 
well I ended up getting aluminum wheels for both my Rage street radials and the stock HPI tires... now i have to get a wheelie bar.. I don't mind the lil extra weight. plus I went to my LBS to get extra axels.. so now I am using all the black ones.. even the little thing bother me :confused:

ARGH!!!! now I just read on HPI that I should use the silver axels... they explain that so the nuts don't come off when driving.. but why on side only?????
 
Last edited:
HPI has black and silver axles to differentiate the two sides. The thread on the different sides is opposite from each other. This is supposedly to keep the axles from unthreading themselves from the wheel nut. Personally, this is the first RC I have had that has this...and it is the only RC that has unthreaded itself even with this.

I now use threadlock or loctite on the wheel nuts to keep them on. You could also put the axles on opposite of what HPI tells you to, and the rotation of the axle should always be trying to tighten the nut.

Your call.
 
It's the same theory used by Volkswagon on their old cars. They had left handed threads on one side and right on the other. I've had no problem with the nuts coming loose but have always been using blue locktite on the threads. It is important to make sure you get them TIGHT when you put the wheels on. By tight, I mean holding the whell and really putting some torque on the nuts with a good nut driver.
Hummm, maybe they should make 6 or 8 lug hubs so you would mount the wheels generally like real ones?????
 

RC Builds

Back
Top