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savage engine

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bbayton88

RCTalk Basher
Messages
55
Reaction score
0
Points
56
Location
Fort Drum NY
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
So as some of you may have saw I was trying to decide which savage to get. Well I decided to buy a new savage x rtr.. I plan on mainly bashing and occasionally trying to race at my track. I'm debating right now if I should keep the f4.6 or upgrade to a lrp engine .. I'm trying to figure it out soon before I break in engine.
 
If the choice is, sell the 4.6 in order to purchase the LRP...Do it. If you can afford the LRP outright, run the 4.6 then step up to the lrp when the 4.6 is done. You can never have too many engines.:)
 
yea that's what I'm thinking, to run the 4.6 and upgrade later. From what I'm reading the 4.6 is suppose to be a pretty decent engine as it is that holds a tune really well. I figure I can get a good 5-8 gallons out of this before upgrading
 
Keep the motor and put an ERCM pipe on it and wake up the F4.6

---------- Post added at 8:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:54 AM ----------

Here's a thread of mine, its of my brand new 2012 savage X completely stock except the ERCM endbleed. It shows you what kind if power the the pipe extracts out of the f4.6.

http://www.savage-central.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=97319
 
Well I decided to keep the F4.6, and went ahead and started the break in today. I could not get it started for the life of me. The nitro start system wasn't able to turn the engine over. It turned the flywheel for about a second and then it would act like it didn't want to turn. The motor on the nitro start would be making noise and then it would turn. I'm not for sure if the gears in the nitro start are stripped or what but I called HPI and they said they would send me one right away. I asked if they could send me a pull start instead and they agreed. So it looks like I will be taking the roto start off and selling the battery and all since Ill have no use for it. Still looking forward to running this thing but I guess ill be waiting 2 weeks until I come out of field. In the meantime ill will be getting a list of parts to order while I'm gone.
 
Your really gonna need to preheat the engine with a hair dryer as hot as it will get it to make it easier to pull start as well. I use a heat gun myself everytime i first start my engines even well after breakin.
 
Keep the motor and put an ERCM pipe on it and wake up the F4.6


+1 ERCM pipe and run that F4.6 then get your lrp that's what I did , and I gota say the ERCM pipe made a big difference that you can see feel and hear .
everything get better with a ERCM pipe but be careful ERCM pipes can be addictive just ask DreamMachine I belive he his three of them now :hehe:

100_2653.webp
 
Your really gonna need to preheat the engine with a hair dryer as hot as it will get it to make it easier to pull start as well. I use a heat gun myself everytime i first start my engines even well after breakin.
Its been awhile since I had to break in a engine and that might of been the problem. I didnt preheat it at all and it was about 35 degrees outside today. I plan on getting a ERCM pipe in June since ill need a steering servo and all first. Anyone ever run the Robinson Racing slipper set up? I'm considering getting that along with a Robinson Racing clutchbell.
 
Keep the motor and put an ERCM pipe on it and wake up the F4.6


+1 ERCM pipe and run that F4.6 then get your lrp that's what I did , and I gota say the ERCM pipe made a big difference that you can see feel and hear .
everything get better with a ERCM pipe but be careful ERCM pipes can be addictive just ask DreamMachine I belive he his three of them now :hehe:

100_2653.webp


Haha yep, 3 endbleeds and 2 ERCM piccos :D


As for the robinson slipper, i wouldnt buy it, just buy an HPI HD solid steel spur and tighten the nut all the way down. I would also tighten the nut all the way down with the plastic spur. I broke in my second ERCM picco with a brand new savage that was bone stock. I tightened the spur nut all the way down and have had zero issues with over a gallon of fuel on the truck.
 
Any idea on why I'm having a hard time starting the truck? Is it because I didnt preheat the engine?
 
Any idea on why I'm having a hard time starting the truck? Is it because I didnt preheat the engine?

for the first 10 tanks or so I preheat my new engine's to 150 to 180 be for I start them up.
you could have something els going on here are a few other thing to check, your glow plug , glow plug igniter may have a low battery same with starter , blow out fuel if you think it is flood out , this usually dose it for me , but I'm sure other's will jump in with more Idea's
 
Haha yep, 3 endbleeds and 2 ERCM piccos :D


As for the robinson slipper, i wouldnt buy it, just buy an HPI HD solid steel spur and tighten the nut all the way down. I would also tighten the nut all the way down with the plastic spur. I broke in my second ERCM picco with a brand new savage that was bone stock. I tightened the spur nut all the way down and have had zero issues with over a gallon of fuel on the truck.

Funny you say robinson slipper I ran the Robinson Racing GEN3 Slipper and it took out my CB the first time I ran it , I did find a hair line crack on the engine plate. I haven't ran GEN3 sence but I'm sure the plate is what did it , I haven't lost a spur or a CB for year's onto I ran GEN3.
With plastic spru I all we's had A little more time to spot a problem befor they get smoked .
 
Any idea on why I'm having a hard time starting the truck? Is it because I didnt preheat the engine?

Pre-heating will help tremendously, these engines run much better when warm, adding any amount of heat to it before you fire it up will really help. I also recommend running an MC#59 for break-in, it will help the engine start faster and run better with a break-in tune.
 
I will try the pre heating process when I return from the field. I should have my pull start from HPI by then. I will also order a MC#59 plug so that it will be here when I return. After the first start will it be required to pre heat the engine again after I let it cool down for a bit? The manual says to let engine idle with wheels off the ground for 2 tanks and then drive in circles for 2 tanks. After that tune for performance. Seems like a short break in.
 
So I tried the pre heat method and still nothing. I'm about 100% sure its the nitro start system. It cranked over and then the rod on the back plate going to the nitro start would just spin like it was stripped. So either way HPI is sending me a new pull start in place of the nitro start
 
I'm using Byrons Race fuel Gen 2 20% 12% oil. I'm hoping thats the issue. I'm also using a Tower hobbies brand glow warmer. I took the plug out and tested it and it lit it bright orange very quickly so I dont think thats the issue.
 
Take the wand out of your starter and put it in a cordless drill , make sure drill is going the right way , preheat engine and give it a try.
But take it easy with a drill you can break the slot on the roto starter plat , I've started mine this way lots of time and never broke the roto starter plat but it can happen.
IMG_0152.webp
 
I thought about doing that but I wont have time until about 2 weeks from now. I think I'm going to sell the roto start system when I get back and put the pull start on. I never like electric starts even back when I had the EZ start system. Its just more hassle and you dont get a real feel of how the engine is.
 
I thought about doing that but I wont have time until about 2 weeks from now. I think I'm going to sell the roto start system when I get back and put the pull start on. I never like electric starts even back when I had the EZ start system. Its just more hassle and you dont get a real feel of how the engine is.

I know how you feel I'm the same way , I have pull starts on all my stuff now but I did keep my roto starts just for back up in case I smoke a pull start and don't have cash for a new one :D
 
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