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Savage .25 clutch replacement( how difficult)

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mackdaddy66

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I am replacing the stock .25 engine in my savage .25 with a new engine. I used to have access to a local hooy shop where i could get my clutch replaced. now i live in another state and i am going to have to do this myself. I want to put a new clutch kit on my new mill before i put it in, i was wondering if you could tell me how hard it would be to put the new clutch on myself? and what advice you can give me since i've never replaced one. thanks, mackdaddy66
 
Not hard. Are you intending on getting a second flywheel or using the one you have? Regardless, make sure the shaft is clean with DA (denatured alcohol) as is the flywheel collet and the inner cone of the flywheel. Any oil in there will give you slipping issues.

Here's a walk through for a 3 shoe clutch (scroll down a bit to see photo's/steps):
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/clutch/clutches-index.html
 
hey nice to talk to an old friend olds97, you may remember me under my old name kdogg1966, i am living in arkansas now and unfortunately theres no hobbyshop near so i am learning to do all my own work. Now....... whats the difference in the types of shoes? i am putting this clutch on a associated lrp z.28 spec3, and on my savage .25? So for my application, which type of shoes do you recommend? are aluminum shoes better? and by the way if anyone here knows of a good hobby shop near Fairfield bay Arkansas I would love to have one a little closer than Little Rock!!!!!
 
My savage does fine with the HPI composite shoes and the LRP28S3. I have the revo geared a bit taller since it's so much lighter, but that means the clutch still takes a beating.

I have really used nothing but HPI composite in any of my 1/8 scale rigs (buggies/savages/tmaxx's, revo's). At least until now.
 
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