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Sagging Rear

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Tarant

Tarant

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Ok. My new old RC10GT needs a few things.

First off the rear green springs are just to saggy and I have put preloaded spacers but I just need stiffer springs. I just jump and bash and i have no clue what springs I need.

Also I have noticed that if i crank the wheel left or right and drive in a very tight circle I get about 3/4 of the way around and my rear tires lock up and then free up but only when I do tight circles it does not do it to me when i am just bashing.. I have checked everything and I can not find the problem. or is this normal

Thanks guys.
 
I would say red springs for the rear end... Dunno bout the other problems though... never experinced that... :shrug:
 
I wrapped those springs around my new shock casing and they work great. As for the rear end... I have NO idea why that would happen. Does it only occor when you drive in a tight circle or does it sometimes do it in other conditions? The only things I could think of are the rear arm/swing arm/other component may be catching on the inside or the tire rim. Check for worn or discolored spots and if you see wear try grinding the rim down a bit.
 
Bearings could be going bad... The rims could be somewhat rounded at the axle and it could be rubbing the axle carrier or a-arm... i really dont know...

As for the springs, those are them.
 
could be the diff.. in a strait line the diff doesn't do much.. but when turning the diff is working hard.. i would chech that to..
 
I'd check yur diet.....usually has a lot to do w/ a sagging rear end....I know mine sure does...
 
Well i am on the Seefood Diet and I have a Bun master. But nothing works argh. :mad:

Do you guys kno of a website that has a step by step guide to rebuild a diff. I have never had to do one and I bought my RC10GT used so I dont have the instructions. I have cheaked all bearings and any thing that could bind or get cought and their are no signs of rubbing or wear. and it only happens when i drive in tight circles. and the wheels are just fine no warpping or rounded bits.
 
The diff setup on the RC10GT is actually pretty simple. Got three gears, small/medium/large. Just buy the entire bag from AE and throw it together for like 10 bucks. If you want you can go a little tough and put it all in a titanium tranny case from towerhobbies.
 
Tweak said:
If you want you can go a little tough and put it all in a titanium tranny case from towerhobbies.
Click to expand...

I think you are confusing titanium with aluminum... And i can't even find a tranny casr for the GT other than stock, on towerhobbies... i coulda swore i saw one on there... Can you find a link?
 
Last edited:
lmao Thanks Candyman but I have to wait till it comes here. I dont want to go to Japan to get it.

I have took apart the diff and the gears look fine but a little dirty I will clean a relube every thing and see if that works

Thanks guys
 
ok...

There are several titanimum parts (skids, bulkheads and a few others) here ~> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...000&F=LXSW02&L=HCRC1016&S1=RC10GT&S2=&S3=&S4= As well as some oter things like titanuim ball pivots, steering assemblies and shock mounts on the page before that.

The titanium diff case I may have been wrong about, I coulda swore I got thru tower hobbies, but I might Have gooten it from AsiaTees.com. I found a titanium coated steel idler gear at my LHS, M & M Hobby Center In Houston Texas. They have an Ebay store on there site, just google the name. I don't know why you have such a roblem finding titanium parts for the RC10GT, I have found several and they really help toughen up your rig. Tower hobbies does however sell aluminum tranny cases in anodized Blue, Purple and I think pink.
 
Never seen a titanium bulkhead for the GT, or a titanium idler gear. There is a titanium top shaft made by RRP, but that is now discontinued. The idler gear is made from hardened steel.

Only things i have seen in titanium for the gt are shock towers, front and rear bumpers, turnbuckles and hingepins, ball studs, nose braces, front axles, top shaft, chassis, and shock rods. I really do think you are confusing titanium with aluminum, because GPM (asiatees.com) does not sell titanium stuff for the GT...
 
Dude... I have it all right here in front of me man. Asiatees sells just about anything they have in aluminum in titanium form. I recieved evry part listed on TowerHobbies, but I have no idea what a topshaft is, so mine is probaly stock.

.21Rc10GT said:
Only things i have seen in titanium for the gt are shock towers, front and rear bumpers, turnbuckles and hingepins, ball studs, nose braces, front axles, top shaft, chassis, and shock rods
Click to expand...

that I can't figure out, cause I just posted a link to the bulkheads and other chassis components from towerhobbies.
 
Tweak said:
that I can't figure out, cause I just posted a link to the bulkheads and other chassis components from towerhobbies.
Click to expand...


I only see the Titanium shock towers and bumpers... The bulkheads are RPM nylon.

Ok, i will drop this since i am not getting anywhere... I already wrote asiatees an email asking for the titanium parts list for the GT and they said they dont carry any.
 
Titanium is overrated. In Strength and Materials class in college I learned that titanium is weaker than steel, but stronger than aluminum, it is also lighter than steel but heavier than aluminum. Therefore titanium is the middle ground between steel and aluminum, not some magic metal like everyone thinks..
 
Yes Titanium is weak. But Titanium Alloy is stronger and lighter. if the correct elements are mixed in Which means high quality. In any case my Q's have been answered and I now .21Rc10GT Has the correct idea and this stuff can be dropped. i dont want Ti stuff i like my RPM bumper and my CF shocktowers
 
As for the diff problem i have heard of the diff balls getting flat sided but I'm not sure if that could be your problem or not.
 

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