Runs only high idle

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Lcopcopl

RC Newbie
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Location
Gonzales la
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
won't stay running if not idled up if idled down where it suppose to be it kill but runs good off idle to full throdle
 
For the most part it does sound like a very high idle but for a nitro engine it isn't. I set mine just below the point the wheels are turning at idle if that helps...
 
First things first you know how to set this to a factory setting?

If you can set it to the factory setting and I'm talking about the low speed needle.


Then after that I would have just the idle at least 1 mm Gap as a good start point.


If the engine starts fine then at this point you need to fine-tune the low-end and the idle screw.





Want to get your engine warmed up at least between 180 or 200 degrees. After that thank you start messing with the needles.

If my high speed needle is not set then I do the high speed first.
What's that set, then I deal with the low speed needle. The first thing I do is I tune it until the Idol starts Rising high but I do it at small slow increments and retest. Then afterwards I pretty much turn that low speed needle to a point where the idle will lay normal and low constant revs.



This is not always the word of God but I do what's called the pinch test if it goes off within 3 seconds as the engine Rises high and drops down simultaneously. Then that lets me know that the low-end is close.


If you can't get it to start within three seconds at least get it to store within two seconds.

If it stalls less than that then you on the lean side.

But I use the pinch test to get a small idea of where my low is at.

After that I eye test how the engine loads if the engine loads and quits under 30 seconds then I gradually and gently lean out the low end.


Now when I say this don't eighth of a turn just a hair at a time. As far as letting fuel in or restricting fuel.


If I can get it to stay on an idling within 30 seconds I get on the gas and if I see a large puffs of smoke for a second that lets me know that got a good low speed needle setting. As well as the jobs a low speed needle is to cool the engine down some.

That's what I'm looking for as far as loading. Also that's the most critical thing when you look at the performance or low speed needle. You want to hear a nice low constant RPM and you want it to load some not to the point that it stalls, but to the point that it'll cool down the engine but still run.


Say I gassed it on on high speed and the temperature was say 225 if I let it sit for 30 seconds it should go down from that to possibly 215. Or even less in some cases.




If the engine builds up temperature without putting throttle input when you check how your low and loads up. Then you're still on the lean side on the low end.


Then after I get that straightened out then I pinch the line one more time if it can go off within two seconds speed up and die at the same time then I got it set right.


If it can do that within three seconds then it's good.

What you don't want is you don't the engine to load where it's going to cut off or where on the other side is going to be lean to the point that the temperature won't cool down while the engine is idling.
 
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