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running super rich @ factory settings for run in

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NitroHawk

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Buenos Aires, Argentina
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I'm having some problems with a brand new Axial .28rr engine with an efra 069 pipe.

I'm on my first tank. Engine is at stock needle settings but it's so rich that it won't idle. if I gently give it some throttle it just starts running rough and spraying fuel from the carb and the exhaust but never cleans out. Temps refuse to go past 150f, even with pre heating and a sock on the cooling head on spring weather.

Should I lean it? I know manual settings aren't always correct but this is WAY off, like one turn on each needle too rich.
 
It shouldnt hurt to lean it just a little. You still want it pretty rich for breakin though. Rich enough to where it will run but not have performance usually. Its normal to have idling issues and possibly flooding of plugs during the breakin process.
 
I'll get some fresh fuel and glow plugs when I get out of work and try again

I'll try leaning it and keeping it around 200ºf, as long as it emits some smoke it should be fine right?
 
Yup. Smoke is good and temps are safe up to around 250-260. Anything over 250 imo is hot. So if you have good performance at 200-240 your running great.
 
I recommend using a hot plug for break-in and lean the LSN until it will idle and maintain 220-240F on it's own. There isn't really a need to run it extra rich because alcohol engines flow about 4X more fuel then gasoline engines, they also use a lot more oil then a gas mix so lubrication shouldn't be a concern until you start leaning for a performance tune.
 
Sorry for bringing up this post again but I wanted to share what happened in the end in case it helps someone.

After running the engine in I noticed that in order to get it to make modest power I needed to lean it to the point of overheating (300f). Had a small talk with one of the reps from axial who pointed out that this was all due to low oil content on the fuel, gave it a try with the fuel he recommended and it only made things worse. I decided to start from scratch and get it running proper as a project instead of getting another engine and leaving this one as a paperweight.

Here's the list of things changed and the effects they had. I started with a sealed engine, 20% tornado fuel, med-cold non turbo plug and stock shims, ran like poop and temps were all over the place, mostly on 300.

Ceramic bearings: I read that the front one leaked on another thread. Mine didn't leak much but this made wonders to the idle. Same temps, still at 300f for it to rev properly but if left idling it would stay at 210f.

Bump start backplate: Even better idle and 10f less in temps for same performance. 290/300 for it to run decent and spitting raw fuel at the top end.

New o rings on HSN, LSN & sealed the MSN: This leaned the tune a lot on the mid/top, I counted the turns before and after and I had to open the HSN 1 full turn more than before to get it close to where it was, engine was now running in the 240 mark with much better performance, didn't flame out and idled perfect once over 200º.

Decided I wanted to get more power out of it so I got a turbo button with a med cold glow plug: This made wonders to the tune, 230 running slightly rich on a hot day and loads of mid end power, BUT after a couple of tanks I found some pitting on the piston and button, timing was to advanced (glow plug too hot/needed more shims on the head)

Upped nitro content from 20 to 25%, still using tornado fuel, added the thinner shim that came in the box and a cold(er) plug, got my needles dialed in and finally the engine runs as it should. Idles forever, smooth transition from low to high revs, doesn't overheat and the carb is super easy to tune. If it had ran like this from the first day buying a bunch of these would have been a no brainer for me.

It's not a bad engine at all, it's just poor manufacturing that made it a tough one to get running properly.

Hope this helps anyone with this engine and thanks for the tips!
 
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