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rs4 aluminum brake lever

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typex_rs43ss

Gone - bye bye.
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so i'm in the ending process of breaking my engine in, 3 day for breaking in. I'm taking it very easy, made wayyy too many mistakes with my last engine, I've learned. i opened it up last night in a parking lot and it was flying, i have one problem though... i dont have brakes, and that's a bad thing.

saw this on tower, i was looking for aluminum parts and trying to make an educated decision. IMO i think too much aluminum is a bad thing.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAR0&P=7
will this fit on my SS?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAS8&P=M
will this help my steering at all?

I'm re-doing my brake system, because i just can't get it right, and i had a problem where i stripped the inside of the brake lever (wasn't grabbing the brake shaft on the transmission housing) so i took the brakes completely off :D I've never hit anything or broke my car because of it, but it's just time i put brakes on it so i can stop when i need to... (i know its going to happen)

thanks for the help.
 
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You are correct when you said too much aluminum is a bad thing. There are spots where it would be more helpful than others. Just don't go crazy because once aluminum is bent it will stay that way.

Both of those parts says it will fit the RS4. I am assuming that it will work for you. If you really question it you could contact Tower Hobbies.

I think the new steering linkage would be nice. IMO steering is an importain part of a TC so you want it to operate nice and smooth. Your goal is to get a quick response for steering.

Hope some of this helps.
 
Both of those parts will work fine. And GET BRAKES ON YOUR CAR!!! Just kidding. I think the steering links look trick and probably reduce the slop in the system. That's always good.
And if you're going to remake the brakes, you may want to do the spring or fuel line mod for your brakes. When I had my RS4/3 stock, I ended up melting the brake disk to the calipers. So what you do is take the screws holding the calipers off. Then fit a piece of fuel tubing or pen spring between the calipers. Make the pieces long enough to just push the calipers completely apart. Then put everything back together with the tubing/spring in place. Now when you let off the brakes, they will push the calipers completely apart so they don't drag on the brake disk.
 
Got enough OS stickers??

Another thing to consider... I havent done this to my TC yet but it helped with my buggy ... Get a higher torque throttle servo. I found that with my first servo even with my brakes applied fully, even when adjusted so that 1mm more than neutral applies the brakes, I still could not LOCK the tires. There just wasn't enough power to "grab" the brake disks. Once I went to a higher torque servo I've had no problems.

Also, I would definitly try Candymans idea about the release mechanism. If the pads are not releasing the brake disk(s) they will overheat and fade. Once they get hot they wont stop like they did when they were cold.
 
i was at the hobby shop the same day that i wrecked, i thought about a throttle return spring, but they didnt have one....

and they asked me why i use tower... haha.
 
Question for you?? Your website links to your page of your 75MPH R/C Car and that takes me to the Type SS. I would really like to know how you get a type SS with a .15 O.S. to do that. I am not doubting you at all. Just asking how honestly. I'm still trying to get my car to shift out of first gear.
 
that car barely had any real damage. the chassis was fine...you shoulda seen my gt when the spur gear cut the battery line. the chasis, the a-arms, the front braces/bulk heads, and servo had to be replaced. to much $$ nice site though. Wouldnt the venom fail safe prevent that problem?

damon
 
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