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RPM A-arm question

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Mike02vr6

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Hi I was just trying to figure out which mounting hole on the rpm arms are the closest to stock I have the stock top shock mount w/the shocks mounted in the middle hole and on the rpm arms I have the shocks mounted on the inner most hole. My problem here is that I have 50 weight oil(2 hole piston) and red tmaxx springs (which i know arent the best but waiting for my trinity blue) mounted on Integy MSR4 piggyback shocks. When i do the drop test from my waist (read short person) the truck bottoms out. I spoke this shouldnt happen now should it? should i try moving out one more hole? or just wait for the springs?
Thanks for any and all help.

~Michael
 
no it shouldnt bottom out...but my sportmaxx I've had for about a month is already doing the same thing.
 
Two things:
1. Hole position is not going to stop the bottoming out. Good oil weight and great springs will.
2. Wait for the Trinity springs and see what happens.

In the meantime, you can try a simple mod on your shocks that will help prevent the bottoming out. The mod is called a "bump stop":

Originally posted by SkyMaxx
...
If you want to keep the truck from bottoming out on big air, you can make simple bump stops with some fuel tubing. Remove the shocks from your truck. Cut eight 1 inch lengths of fuel tubing. Remove the bottom rod end from each shock. Slide the 1 inch length of fuel tubing up onto the shock shaft, and then replace the rod end. Viola! Bump stops.
...
Click to expand...
 
Yo Sky - I saw you guys talking about that MOd a while back. I'm gonna try that just for the hell of it with the my new Integy PiggyBacks. Ya gotta love Fuel line as it's almost the duct tape of the RC hobby...ha. I also mount my shocks with fuel tubing (instead of plastic bushings or whatever) as it does seem to absorb more shock NRG during side impacts.
 
I've been running them on all of my shocks, and in some cases I have noticed newer shocks that come with them straight from the factory. Bump stops are a really cost effective mod and great way to stop the shock from bottoming out.
 
The RPM arms I bought only have one mounting position on them so do the shock towers. I'm not sure what stuff you have. Is it for the older maxx or the 2.5?
 
Actually, you might have the older version. Here is a link to the set he has:
CLILCK HERE

As for the shock towers, I am curious as to which ones he has. RPM's site implies that there might be a multi position tower available from them, but I was not able to locate information on it at the RPM site.
 
Hey guys thanks for the advice. I have the stock traxxass shock tower. I will try that bumpstop thing too. Been meaning to try it. I just have one question w/doin that. How do I take the lower eye off of the shock? With plyers? Seems like that would marr (sp) the finish of the shock. Is that bad idea or do I wrap it in something before I do that? thanks again guys. So with the 50 weight, the trinity blue springs, and bump stops I should be all set w/bottoming out?

~Michael
 
while you guys are on the subject what are the cons of rpm a-arms. I've heard nothing but good screw that, nothing but amazing. customer service life time waranty very strong. is there any flaws or any thing bad at all i need to know be4 i install mine??
 
Arm problem, no. Shock tower problem, yes. At least in extreme situations.

The shock towers are so flexible that on my truck, they actually allowed my quick release shock mount that I made, punch a hole through my header on a bad rear landing.

See below:
T-Maxx-BodyOff-badheaderhigh01.jpg


After a bit of JB weld, aluminum sheathing, a pipe clamp and modified shock tower later, this is what I ended up with:
T-Maxx-HeaderFixOnTruck02.jpg


I'm to cheap to buy a new header. Although, if this doesn't hold up, I guess I'll have to.
 
Originally posted by Mike02vr6
Hey guys thanks for the advice. I have the stock traxxass shock tower. I will try that bumpstop thing too. Been meaning to try it. I just have one question w/doin that. How do I take the lower eye off of the shock? With plyers? Seems like that would marr (sp) the finish of the shock. Is that bad idea or do I wrap it in something before I do that? thanks again guys. So with the 50 weight, the trinity blue springs, and bump stops I should be all set w/bottoming out?

~Michael
Click to expand...

When I remove the lower rod end from my shock shafts, I use a pair of vice grip pliers, a paper towel, and an allen wrench (the smaller the better). I roll the paper towel up into a long pad. Wrap that long pad around the shock shaft and then apply the vice grips. I then use the allen wrench through the eye of the rod end to act as a handle (looks sort of like the letter "T" when it is inserted). From there I just twist off the rod end. When I am done, I reverse the process to re-apply the rod end. Works for me every time with no marring of the shock shaft.
 
Whatever works man... whatever works. I'll find out how well it works this weekend. 54degrees on saterday without rain in sight. It's going to be a good day.

It's a good thing I picked up this hobby as my 1:1 car was starting to reap the whirlwind of Mgyverdom.
 
Thanks sky! I will try that today hopefully I am off the next 3 days..but.....I ordered a proline steering kit from ebay, new opened package for picture and the guy for got the turnbuckle!! I made my own for now hopefully he will get it to me soon. Just trying to work out the bugs w/the shocks and steering then I think i will be out this weekend...50-55 all weekend!! Woo hoo...so long below zero. Thanks for all the help guys.

~Michael
 
for the guys that have the RPM A-arm what have you found is the easiest way to change your springs and take your shocks off? I have a locknut on the back of mine the inside of both shocks) Right now I am in the middle of my third spring change trying to find the right combo (yea..I think i got it 50w and trinity blue springs). I am just trying to figure out what people use I was thinking maybe a rod w/eclips on either end or a really long nut that would pass through. It appears that I have the clearance so I dont hit my cvd. thanks.

~Michael
 
I'm running a 9.5 buggy shock conversion with 4 shocks only on a 21 conversion. 55 or 60 weight oil (can't remember which). I used the black springs on the rear and navy blue on the front. These springs came with the 9.5 shock kit.

I use the same as you on the bottom of the shock, a bolt with a nut. But I do put a washer on the front to avoid loosing the shock end. I use stainess steel rod on the top running clear through with brass collars on each side.

You can see the shock tops up obove on my header pics.

Oh yeah, El, if you liked that, your going to love my next set of pics for my final update to prevent the header issue. I'll post one for you to make fun of when I get it back together.

I'm currently working, well kind of working.
 
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh....another problem now I have trinity blue springs and (AE manufactures the oil and its silicon)50 weight oil on my shocks towers (stock tmaxx 2.5) I use the middle hole. On the Rpm A-arms I use the inner most hole. I am doin the drop test fro mlike just above knee high and the rear seems to bottom out still. Olds what set up do you use on yours? ( i know you only use 4 shocks but this might help me a little bit.
 
I'm forced to use the outside holes on the bottom, since the buggy shocks are a bit longer than stock. On the uppers, there is only one hole on the rpm towers, which i think corrosponds to 1 of the center holes on the stock towers.

As for the springs and oil, i posted above. Mine bottoms out from a drop of about 3 feet. Not hard, but it does bottom out. I could crank my springs down to get away from this some, but I havn't really ran it yet with this set up.

I did the shock conversion, drove 2 tanks through it, totally destroyed the truck on a bad wreck. Havn't driven it since. I had intended on running it today, but i've bee forced to work up until now. I'm going to try and take it out in the next hour though.
 
man thats sucks you destroyed it. I am on my way out right now to drive mine. My brotherinlaws truck is still in pieces but its 56 degress here how could i not run it? See ya thanks for the info.

michael
 

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