Rollcage ideas for AE MMGT 3.0

[dawsongdawg]

Are there any manufactured rollcages for the AE MMGT 3.0 out there? I've seen many for the 4.6/8.0... but none for the 3.0.

Since my initial searching though, i've decided to try and make a rollcage, so far my ideas have been pretty solid, and cheap, but I'm finding it difficult without jig'ing to bend the rod i'm using. I decided to use 3/16" steel rod (bought at the local hardware store for around 3 bucks for a 4 foot section) and was able bend the main frame bar, and the two uprights for the window and "rollbar" thats over the engine area- I'm using a rotary tool with a grinding wheel/cutoff wheel to clean the joints, and shape the uprights to the correct angle. Being as I do not have access to a welder, I've been able to prep clean enough (also using some acetone to remove any oils) that some applied J-B Weld has done well to hold the frame together... by design, i'm hoping the shearing strength of the j-b weld on the joints will be sufficient to handle any impact. It's been fairly simple so far, i just wish i had the setup to jig all bends as some turned out uneven... any insight/tips/thoughts- please post! Thanks!

will post pics soon-

 

[olds97_lss]

Use a cheap propane or mapp gas torch (mapp is hotter, I should have bought that instead) to heat the rod red hot, then bend. That's what I did with 5/16" and 1/4" cold rolled steel rod to make roll bars in the past.

I don't think the JB weld is going to hold. Your time is probably best served making some sort of 3 point roll bar. Requires lots of bends, but it should hold up pretty well if you use some heavier rod. 3/16" is pretty light for a 1/10 MT. I use 1/4" on my jato and 5/16" on my savage, aftershock and revo. I've ditched it on the revo in favor of a wing and new era roll bar. The other 3 are still running a roll bar made by me.

My aftershock, 5/16" round bar:

Savage 1, 4 years ago, 5/16" round bar, was my first roll bar attempt on anything:

Savage 2, now, 5/16" round bar:

Jato 1/4" round bar:

I was able to get it to fit under the body. My goal here was to avoid snapping rear towers every time I run. So far, has worked.

Then there's the aftermarket way on the revo (new era 3 point roll bar and wing):

Or, you could read up on brazing and use a mapp gas torch to do it. You can usually find a mapp gas torch wherever you find the propane one I linked too. It would probably hold up better than JB weld, but is still something you can try without a welder and "grown up" torch. I live in an apartment, so I have to stick to tools that are usable and storable by me. Having a wire welder and acetylene torch in my office where I work on trucks is probably a bad idea...

 

[dawsongdawg]

Use a cheap propane or mapp gas torch (mapp is hotter, I should have bought that instead) to heat the rod red hot, then bend. That's what I did with 5/16" and 1/4" cold rolled steel rod to make roll bars in the past.

I don't think the JB weld is going to hold. Your time is probably best served making some sort of 3 point roll bar. Requires lots of bends, but it should hold up pretty well if you use some heavier rod. 3/16" is pretty light for a 1/10 MT. I use 1/4" on my jato and 5/16" on my savage, aftershock and revo. I've ditched it on the revo in favor of a wing and new era roll bar. The other 3 are still running a roll bar made by me.

My aftershock, 5/16" round bar:

Savage 1, 4 years ago, 5/16" round bar, was my first roll bar attempt on anything:

Savage 2, now, 5/16" round bar:

Jato 1/4" round bar:

I was able to get it to fit under the body. My goal here was to avoid snapping rear towers every time I run. So far, has worked.

Then there's the aftermarket way on the revo (new era 3 point roll bar and wing):

Or, you could read up on brazing and use a mapp gas torch to do it. You can usually find a mapp gas torch wherever you find the propane one I linked too. It would probably hold up better than JB weld, but is still something you can try without a welder and "grown up" torch. I live in an apartment, so I have to stick to tools that are usable and storable by me. Having a wire welder and acetylene torch in my office where I work on trucks is probably a bad idea...

AWESOME INSIGHT! Thanks for the "Craniums up" on what's worked for you previously- i will look into a heavier design after this original one- right now i got the time to tinker... Hopefully if the design is structually sound- maybe i can find a local metal shop to weld it true for me. Appreciate it!